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I'd like to get more (negative) camber on the front of my 911T for track work. Looks like Tarrett and Eephant sell camber plates. Installation does seem like kind of a pain to accommodate my SPASM shocks - special socket... I know GT3 lower control arms are also an option. For those that have done camber plates or lower control arms, any recommendations or tips before I take the plunge? Oh and last time I got an alignment at a respected local shop, I was told that the rear needed to be aligned before the front. Never heard that one before, but this is also my first rear engine car. I'd rather get front done first with maximum negative camber and then base rear camber on what I can get in front.
I'd like to get more (negative) camber on the front of my 911T for track work. Looks like Tarrett and Eephant sell camber plates. Installation does seem like kind of a pain to accommodate my SPASM shocks - special socket... I know GT3 lower control arms are also an option. For those that have done camber plates or lower control arms, any recommendations or tips before I take the plunge? Oh and last time I got an alignment at a respected local shop, I was told that the rear needed to be aligned before the front. Never heard that one before, but this is also my first rear engine car. I'd rather get front done first with maximum negative camber and then base rear camber on what I can get in front.
I have tarrett front ajustable plate with ohlins im now -2.2 front .dont buy elephant stuff
I had the first gen elephant racing camber plates and got rattles after about 1 year. They swapped me out to their 2nd gen ones which have been a lot more stout. 2 years, track days and canyon runs and still quiet. I recently also had BBI refresh my front control arms, thrust arms and bump steer kit with a corner balance and alignment. The cars handling was brought up to whole different level.
I am around -2.5 up front and can def get a lot more.
🤣. If you think Elephant are spendy, wait until you see the good stuff….E-Motion.
Every Elephant Rattling bar i had drove me nuts. Constantly chasing rattles.
E-Motion is silent perfection. -4.4 Front and -3.5 rear.
E-Motion is also local to me, their stuff is the MOST stout stuff I have seen for our platform. But I am not that hardcore so the BBi stuff seemed like the right price to performance ration. From what I can see the BBi components look like they could be manufactured by Tarret.
I have had the Tarrett camber plates on for abt 3 years now without problem (once they were installed properly). A little more NVH, but not worth avoiding. I didn't need a lot of camber, and got from a friend for a good price so they fit my needs.
I have the front E-Motion arms and they are terrific. So high quality. Going to do the rear this summer. Have 2.5 negative camber front and rear and great on the street.
I run -2.9 front and -2.3 in the rear. And the car is super stable, great turn in and feels balanced. This car is my DD and Canyon Run and 3-4 track days a year.
I run -2.9 front and -2.3 in the rear. And the car is super stable, great turn in and feels balanced. This car is my DD and Canyon Run and 3-4 track days a year.
So all I need are these arms and GT3 shims (website says they're sold separately, but I cant find them) to get -3ish front?
What's the max negative camber achievable on a 991T with OEM suspension?
So all I need are these arms and GT3 shims (website says they're sold separately, but I cant find them) to get -3ish front?
What's the max negative camber achievable on a 991T with OEM suspension?
on my 991.1 before I got the camber plates and control arms I was around -2.0 - 2.5 ish.
Call BBi I know they have lots of shims in the shop, I am sure they can put some together for you. You will also most likely need the little bracket for your headlight leveling sensor too.
So all I need are these arms and GT3 shims (website says they're sold separately, but I cant find them) to get -3ish front?
What's the max negative camber achievable on a 991T with OEM suspension?
I got about 1.6’ish on my stock T. The ride height will affect it, so a lowered car will have more. Camber plates I’ve been told give about 0.75-1.0 extra adjustment, and control arms about the same. With camber plates and control arms you can effectively push the wheels further out and gain additional track width without affecting scrub radius, so there are other benefits to be found than just camber.
I went with RSS XL front arms and toe links, then Tarett rear LCAs to allow current -3.2 and -2.7 figures. With stock I think the rear maxed out at -1.9.
Not sure I need that much camber...
Could you elaborate on the parts you have front and back - specifically to increase negative camber.
Tractive top hats maxed out.
E-Motion Front LCA and anti dive anti squat.Shim adjustable)
Rear E-Motion wish bone (Shim adjustable)
E-Motion allows for castor / Camber and Toe adjustment.
Its not neg camber that chops tyres out, its bad toe.
My toe is pretty much zero. When cars canMt get enough neg camber and wonMt turn in, shops will often toe in toe out, to get them to turn. But that will cause premature wear on the street.
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