seized spark plugs
#46
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Central Massachusetts
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I am surprised this hasn't been mentioned yet. There's a good possibility that the plug was over torqued at the last plug change. It is pretty common for both pros and amateurs to skip the torque wrench, especially on these motors with such limited access. I know this is of no help to the current situation, but it could prevent a problem for someone else in the future.
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#47
I just had my buddy change my plugs at 13K miles on my 2012.5. Supposedly the dealer performed this service for the CPO 4 year service but due to all the other stuff that happened at the dealer and what they lied about my guess is they had never been changed, thankfully my buddy had the correct extensions and the job was a snap (with no snap). I also went ahead and got the coil/plug combo pack from FCP so in another 8 years I can do it again for free. I wonder if the turbo cars have more problems with plugs snapping due to higher heat cycles ?
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Tier1Terrier (02-25-2023)
#51
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Well, that's certainly the right way to do it. It's also the nuclear approach.
#52
Rennlist Member
$3707, forget that. Personally, I'd remove it using the appropriate tools. You need to be patient and it might take a few days going at it on and off. If you get tired and frustrated, stop and go and have a beer.
Of course you need to be a serious hands on type and have the feel.
Of course you need to be a serious hands on type and have the feel.
#53
For a dealer that is a good price for an indie not that good.
I would say at this point assess your profiency and according to that decide to pay a profesional or continue yourself, do note that a head or engine is going to be a lot worse so you can't get it wrong.
I would say at this point assess your profiency and according to that decide to pay a profesional or continue yourself, do note that a head or engine is going to be a lot worse so you can't get it wrong.
#54
Rennlist Member
In case you attempt a fix, have you tried to remove the ceramic tip which I would assume is still in the sheared off threads in the head. This based on your photo in post #7.
The ceramic portion is in the base of the spark plug that is crimped in along with pressure seals. The ceramic end (lets hope it is intact) is not a press fit into the threaded portion of the spark plug, so it should be loose with maybe some carbon holding it in. Maybe use a shop vac, crevice tool and vinyl hose to suck it out. Then you should be left with just the threaded barrel of the spark plug in the cylinder head.
The ceramic portion is in the base of the spark plug that is crimped in along with pressure seals. The ceramic end (lets hope it is intact) is not a press fit into the threaded portion of the spark plug, so it should be loose with maybe some carbon holding it in. Maybe use a shop vac, crevice tool and vinyl hose to suck it out. Then you should be left with just the threaded barrel of the spark plug in the cylinder head.
#55
Rennlist Member
Considering I just spend close to that amount replacing a water pump on a car one fourth the value of your 911, I wouldn’t hesitate to spend that to get this properly fixed. But that wouldnt stop me from getting one or two other estimates.
On a side note, this is a really interesting thread to me. I can recall numerous posts over the years (including my own) questioning the time interval for spark plug changes, particularly because many 911 owners don’t exceed the miles before the time. I like that someone a few posts up commented that perhaps they were over-tightened at the previous change, although given that this interval far exceeded the recommendation, I’m just guessing the mileage plated a bigger role.
On a side note, this is a really interesting thread to me. I can recall numerous posts over the years (including my own) questioning the time interval for spark plug changes, particularly because many 911 owners don’t exceed the miles before the time. I like that someone a few posts up commented that perhaps they were over-tightened at the previous change, although given that this interval far exceeded the recommendation, I’m just guessing the mileage plated a bigger role.
#56
Rennlist Member
this unfortunately is life with a 911. either you make your attempts with the cylinder head still attached or you take it apart. as with most big repairs the largest charge is the labour to remove and replace the engine/transmission assembly, just pulling the rear bumper assembly isn't going to do it. if they are going to pull the head then the engine comes out, quick $2 grand.
#57
Three Wheelin'
as the cheap bastard that i am, i would probably give it another go myself first but..
you can look at it another way: right now you've got a useless lump of metal and for 4k you can turn it into a 911
you can look at it another way: right now you've got a useless lump of metal and for 4k you can turn it into a 911
#60
Rennlist Member