seized spark plugs
Rennlist Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 766
Likes: 323
From: we the north
Pretty easy to keep it clean while removing, and lots of suction from a specialty vacuum would be appropriate ... then scope it to see what's in there?
Head removal seems a bit extreme (does engine need to come out?) ... this can't have been the first time this has happened.
Head removal seems a bit extreme (does engine need to come out?) ... this can't have been the first time this has happened.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 573
Likes: 152
From: Pensacola, Florida
rensoyka,
I've read dozens of write-ups of folks who broke their plugs while removing - many had residue in the cylinder - and, lots of input from mechanics who believe small bits of debris will be blown out nearly instantly. Lots of advice to ensure one scopes the cylinder - and, equipment to do this is pretty common.
In general goes like this:
- break plug
- remove parts still in the plug well
- if the ceramic is still in the remaining part of the plug, use one of the devices to break the ceramic then remove remainder with extractor device (various types)
- if ceramic came out with the top of the plug, use extractor device to remove threaded portion of the plug
- vacuum the cylinder out ...
- scope to see what might still be in there
- use a flexible device with adhesive - or even heavy grease per one fellow - and swap the cylinder out
- rescope
I would need to exhaust all these steps, first - perhaps even get a mechanic involved who professes a knowledge of having done this before.
I've read dozens of write-ups of folks who broke their plugs while removing - many had residue in the cylinder - and, lots of input from mechanics who believe small bits of debris will be blown out nearly instantly. Lots of advice to ensure one scopes the cylinder - and, equipment to do this is pretty common.
In general goes like this:
- break plug
- remove parts still in the plug well
- if the ceramic is still in the remaining part of the plug, use one of the devices to break the ceramic then remove remainder with extractor device (various types)
- if ceramic came out with the top of the plug, use extractor device to remove threaded portion of the plug
- vacuum the cylinder out ...
- scope to see what might still be in there
- use a flexible device with adhesive - or even heavy grease per one fellow - and swap the cylinder out
- rescope
I would need to exhaust all these steps, first - perhaps even get a mechanic involved who professes a knowledge of having done this before.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 766
Likes: 323
From: we the north
There is a good chance that these methods will be successful. It all depends on your tolerance for risk. I have to wonder what a porsche factory mechanic would recommend. This is my first 911, spent the past 40 years fixing and modding lesser cars but no more. I'm 66 and I can afford the pros to keep it as new so I have no tolerance for risk anymore.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 573
Likes: 152
From: Pensacola, Florida
Ho Boy - lots of threads with lots of threads ... :-)
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...threads-2.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...threads-2.html
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 227
Likes: 160
From: Irvine, CA
Definitely thumbs up for driving it, but thumbs down for the crappy maintenance. First owner allowed it to go 3 x's the mileage to 90K and then the second owner let it go to 142K almost double the cycle the second time around. Yeah, you might have a problem or two.
Last edited by F1SML8R; Jan 29, 2023 at 07:11 PM.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 492
Likes: 224
what value does this statement have regarding remediating the current situation? Insanity replacing plugs every 4 years, most have 100K miles limits. Guess Porsche is feeble vs Toyota, Nissan, GM, ford, Mazda...
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Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 427
From: USA/Oregon
I can't see extracting the plug without dropping the motor.
getting at them is a challenge when stuff is going right..
where it broke off it also likely dropped the ceramic bits and guts in the cylinder.
Motor out on a stand there is a chance you could get the broken plug out, by turning the
motor sideways so any lube you spray in the hole gets to the threads and you can let it soak.
Dont run the motor. if it broke the ceramic off in the motor it will destroy stuff if rotated.
getting at them is a challenge when stuff is going right..
where it broke off it also likely dropped the ceramic bits and guts in the cylinder.
Motor out on a stand there is a chance you could get the broken plug out, by turning the
motor sideways so any lube you spray in the hole gets to the threads and you can let it soak.
Dont run the motor. if it broke the ceramic off in the motor it will destroy stuff if rotated.
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 7,724
Likes: 3,306
From: Minnesota
Bewildering why everyone keeps interating the change interval. How does that help remove the broken plug? I pretty sure a local Porsche shop/mechanic has seen this before and can remove. Easy enough to get an extractor in the broken plug, I imagine with the right amount of heat it will come right out. Oh yea you should change them more frequent.....
With an example of this happening, the other side will be quick to point out "yeah, that's what the interval is for." This thread was practically over with the second post, redirecting the OP to the appropriate thread, where I hope he found a good shop.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 8,687
Likes: 785
From: Canada & the Alps
I just removed my factory installed spark plugs this past summer, 7 years after Porsche AG installed them. I cleaned the threads and applied a thin coat of anti-seize as I have been doing for the last 40+ years on all my motorcycles and cars (yes, I know about the NGK recommendation). Never an issue, even on high mileage daily drivers.
I then torqued them to the minimum specified torque setting using a quality and calibrated Snap-On torque wrench.
Question is, how did they seize due to rust? The ignition sticks have a very good rubber seal.
This might be tough to do it right.
I then torqued them to the minimum specified torque setting using a quality and calibrated Snap-On torque wrench.
Question is, how did they seize due to rust? The ignition sticks have a very good rubber seal.
This might be tough to do it right.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 8,687
Likes: 785
From: Canada & the Alps
I feel for the owner. I bit of finesse might have helped.
