Tracking a cabrio
05-23-2022, 01:18 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Would absolutely not run the stock pads, upgrade them. You can wear them down in one day and damage the rotors. They are far too soft if you push the car.
Upgraded pads, and high temp brake fluid are a must imo. I'd do alignment next, not full street or full track, something a bit more aggressive. Would not worry about tires until yours are gone. IMO there is no such thing as a performance tire that will "last" at the track.
Upgraded pads, and high temp brake fluid are a must imo. I'd do alignment next, not full street or full track, something a bit more aggressive. Would not worry about tires until yours are gone. IMO there is no such thing as a performance tire that will "last" at the track.
05-23-2022, 01:44 PM
#17
Would absolutely not run the stock pads, upgrade them. You can wear them down in one day and damage the rotors. They are far too soft if you push the car.
Upgraded pads, and high temp brake fluid are a must imo. I'd do alignment next, not full street or full track, something a bit more aggressive. Would not worry about tires until yours are gone. IMO there is no such thing as a performance tire that will "last" at the track.
Upgraded pads, and high temp brake fluid are a must imo. I'd do alignment next, not full street or full track, something a bit more aggressive. Would not worry about tires until yours are gone. IMO there is no such thing as a performance tire that will "last" at the track.
Going one step further, what rotors do you recommend if I want a modest upgrade? Would prioritize longevity one notch above performance here.
05-23-2022, 02:42 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
The number of DD or street miles verses DE/track time limits the changes you can make for the track.
SRF is overkill and IMO too expensive. Motul 600 or 660 should be more than enough. PCA Potomac requires OEM fluid change every 3 months and 6 months for high temp fluid.
Sebro slotted from FCPEuro with their LifeTime Warranty is the next step up from drilled OEM rotors. Drilled rotors develop heat stress cracks around the holes. Cracks longer than 5-6mm, joined or at the edge must be replaced. You can run track pads on drilled OEM rotors, but you need to inspect the rotors after each run.
While you can get away with OEM pads for the first couple of beginner track days, they will quickly wear out and at worse can overheat and begin to fail as you pick up speed. I carry either an extra new set or set that will pass a one day tech.
As mentioned a more track oriented alignment with more negative camber will save the left front tire edge. The amount of negative camber needed for a frequent track car requires adjustable LCAs and/camber plates. High DD miles will wear the inside with track negative camber.
A dedicated set of track wheels and tires is the next step. There are a number of 200TW tires. Hankook RS4s have the reputation of lasting the longest, but not the fastest. Cup2s are quicker, expensive and not long lasting.
AAA Premium for the two hundred mile tow is worth the cost.
SRF is overkill and IMO too expensive. Motul 600 or 660 should be more than enough. PCA Potomac requires OEM fluid change every 3 months and 6 months for high temp fluid.
Sebro slotted from FCPEuro with their LifeTime Warranty is the next step up from drilled OEM rotors. Drilled rotors develop heat stress cracks around the holes. Cracks longer than 5-6mm, joined or at the edge must be replaced. You can run track pads on drilled OEM rotors, but you need to inspect the rotors after each run.
While you can get away with OEM pads for the first couple of beginner track days, they will quickly wear out and at worse can overheat and begin to fail as you pick up speed. I carry either an extra new set or set that will pass a one day tech.
As mentioned a more track oriented alignment with more negative camber will save the left front tire edge. The amount of negative camber needed for a frequent track car requires adjustable LCAs and/camber plates. High DD miles will wear the inside with track negative camber.
A dedicated set of track wheels and tires is the next step. There are a number of 200TW tires. Hankook RS4s have the reputation of lasting the longest, but not the fastest. Cup2s are quicker, expensive and not long lasting.
AAA Premium for the two hundred mile tow is worth the cost.