Just picked up a lightly used set of Soul Sport Cats for my 991.2 with PSE. Not sure yet if I'm going to attempt to DIY or just pay a shop to do it. Would love to find a great DIY video or instructions with photos that show how to do it on this specific setup (991.2 with PSE). I searched around and couldn't find. Any help would be appreciated.

 

There are plenty of videos on YouTube explaining how to do it. Working on these cars are not as scary as one thinks.....in fact they are fairly easy to. As long as you have the time and tools you can do it!

 

Well, Duh! I looked on the Soul website and they provide nice clear instructions with photos.

https://i4q6a2d6.stackpathcdn.com/wp...Web.pdf?x11192

I wonder about anyone who's done this by themselves and without a lift. I have Jackpoint stands and I'm wondering if that will give the rear of my car enough of a lift to easily do this.

 

I plan on doing mine with two 3 ton jacks holding the rear up (with jack stands for safety as well). Plenty have done it laying on the floor. I do plan on taking my wheels off for easier access to the O2 sensors but everything else seems very straight forward.

 

You saved me the trouble of sending you that link! The hardest part really is getting up into the turbo heat shields to remove / reinstall the hardware. It's not an impossible task for the average enthusiast. Shoot us a message if you have any questions!

-Mike

 

I installed mine. The heat shields are no fun, and neither are the O2 sensors on the large factory cats (if you don't remove them with the cats...I left mine plugged in). The soul units are smaller with more room to work going back in. I used crow's feet on the O2s.

 

Also don't good crazy trying to remove the vacuum hoses. Just pry up on the pinch clamp and the hose will slide off. Then slide back on when installing.
Bumper removal aids also.

 

Did mine with the vehicle on ramps. The hardest part was removing the heat shield bolts. I also purchased an O2 sensor socket which helped when removing and installing the sensors. Having an extra set of hands helped when dropping the whole exhaust system down. I did not remove the bumper or the rear wheels. Overall it took about 3 hours from start to finish. I have catless pipes so I did not install the heat shields back on. I found it was easier for the new pipes to be installed onto the exhaust first before re installing everything. Also, all of the exhaust clamps were left loose when bolting the pipes up to the turbos prior to tightening everything up. I have seen a video where the exhaust was loosened but never dropped down to install the pipes. I also read the instruction diagrams from fabspeed to be prepared. Also, be prepared to have your softronic file re done. Scott did a great job making changes to accommodate the persistent CEL that kept coming on in my case, however yours may be different. The pipes I have been running are the 2M fabrication pipes and I have not had any issues with them. Hope this helps and good luck!

 

I am planning on doing mine. Frankly the easiest is to remove the bumper and the intercooler cage. It only takes 10 minutes to remove the intercooler cage as it is held by couple of hoses and 5 or 6 easy accessible nuts Then you have complete access to the 02 sensors and the heat shied. It just saves so much time and frustration. I have removed the cage twice and it is very easy and so is bumper removal. I did both by myself.

 

@BlitzIS Any chance that the CEL had to do with going catless? I hear that’s an issue that is avoided with the Soul Sport Cats (and some other models).

 

100% certain it was because of going catless. At first I was getting a different O2 sensor code and it turned out it was the O2 sensor spacer. I used a spacer because 1 of my sensor wires was just a tad short and it didn’t allow for the sensor to be properly installed. After loosening the O2 sensor wire topside from the harness, it allowed me to have the slack needed in order for me to not use the spacer. Once that was done I was still getting the CEL and while checking for codes with the obd2 scanner yielded no stored codes, the CEL would come on after clearing them out. The only way I knew for sure what the codes were is when I had it scanned at the my Indy shop. I was not the only member here that had that exact same issue and in the end, Scott from softronic was able to make it right.

 

If you’re willing to wait a couple of weeks I am waiting on my set to come in. I will be posting a detailed instruction on my YouTube channel. Until then we have to rely on the instructions.

 

Cat R&R is not that difficult. I installed my Vektor cats using Jackpoint jack stands and they were plenty high enough. As has been stated, the toughest part is the heat shields, the driver's side particularly. When you reinstall the heat shields I recommend using some anti-seize, at least on the bolts that go into the turbo housing. Use new gaskets too. I was very glad that I did the cats. Headers, totally different story. I just had Vektor headers installed yesterday. I elected to have Brian at Above and Beyond Performance in West Palm Beach do it for me. He is a super mechanic and it took him quite a while.

Good luck on the cats, you will be glad you did it. Turbos spool much quicker with the sport cats.

 

@Soul Performance @cutlass476 - What’s the difficulty with the heat shield removal? Is it access to bolts or just that the bolts are seized on? Could this difficulty be remedied by removing the rear wheels or bumper? Or using PB Blaster? I have to install diverter valves too so I will have to remove bumper anyway. Just curious how I can mitigate any potential challenges installing the cats.

 

PB blaster is a must on all bolts. I would assume bumper removal would make things a lot easier. Lucky for me my heat shield bolts were not on super tight so it’s just a matter of getting to them and turning them little by little.