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I'm feeling really dumb here but I don't see a voltage value anywhere on the instrument cluster with key on, no starting. I had it on a float charger for the last 2 days and did a load test after disconnecting charger, battery tests good.
Voltage is part of "optional view" as you toggle through the many screens (to the right of RPM cluster)
if it isn't showing in the same green as oil temp and coolant temps, you may have to go to Settings and add Voltage.
Once it starts showing up, turn key to 2nd position, right before starting, turn off headlights if they are ON, and see if the voltage is at least 12.0 or more. If not, you are in need of a new battery
Does it tell you at which mileage these DTC appeared? I you have misfire on all cylinders, it could be caused by not enough juice going to the coils (failing alternator or battery? check your grounds as well), it could be a problem of harness (damaged) or problem of fuel.
Have you torque the spark plug at the correct torque value?
No info re mileage, I did torque the plugs 18.4 ft lbs, 25 Newton. I only load tested the battery, I didn't check the charging system as i was getting battery levels above 14 V when I tested it with the engine running.
I'd suggest to erase the codes, drive the car again and identify the life case when the codes appear : do the misfire code appear at idle or when the engine is loaded, when engine is cold or hot, when the PDK is in D or N, vehicle running or static etc?
Misfiring was felt when running at operating temp and when "engine control fault" message came on. The above codes are at idle, vehicle running in park, engine cold. I am going to lift the car and make sure all my connections are tight, then I will clear the codes and drive it. My thinking is, if they reappear, I will order new coil packs and a battery and replace those items and see where it goes from there. I very much appreciate all the input!
Originally Posted by Watson
Also check you don't have any leakage in your intake lines.
Voltage is part of "optional view" as you toggle through the many screens (to the right of RPM cluster)
if it isn't showing in the same green as oil temp and coolant temps, you may have to go to Settings and add Voltage.
Once it starts showing up, turn key to 2nd position, right before starting, turn off headlights if they are ON, and see if the voltage is at least 12.0 or more. If not, you are in need of a new battery
Makes sense. There was no voltage on the screen but saw settings I will go there again and add it.
Does it tell you at which mileage these DTC appeared? I you have misfire on all cylinders, it could be caused by not enough juice going to the coils (failing alternator or battery? check your grounds as well), it could be a problem of harness (damaged) or problem of fuel.
Have you torque the spark plug at the correct torque value?
I'd suggest to erase the codes, drive the car again and identify the life case when the codes appear : do the misfire code appear at idle or when the engine is loaded, when engine is cold or hot, when the PDK is in D or N, vehicle running or static etc?
Doesn't tell me the mileage. Plugs were properly torqued.
hcamp19, do you have any pictures from when you did the work, especially from under the car when you replaced the plugs?
When you replaced the air filters, did you remove the air box entirely or just the cover? Any change you accidentally disconnected one of the many vacuum lines running behind the air box? These can throw up warning signs on the dash but not fault codes. That still wouldn't explain the rough idle however.
Which plugs did you use and where did you buy them from? Did you double check the boxes to ensure you the plugs you installed are what you ordered and are the correct ones?
Did you check the oil level before going on the drive?
Any chance you ran over something on the drive? Did you check the undertray, transmission and engine for damage?
Any chance one of two cables on the battery terminal is loose at either end?
Have you done any other work on the car recently prior to this service?
Sorry to hear. It’s crazy how there are such opposite spectrums to ownership of these cars.
One side you have the owners who fret at any issue and will always have a warranty. The other side you have the owners who go ***** out, pushing the car to the max and no warranty.
Judging by the fact that the OP is looking to buy a new battery (In another thread) I am guessing the issue was at least partly related to Old Battery and low voltage. (unless OP can chime in and provide update)
hcamp19, do you have any pictures from when you did the work, especially from under the car when you replaced the plugs?
When you replaced the air filters, did you remove the air box entirely or just the cover? Any change you accidentally disconnected one of the many vacuum lines running behind the air box? These can throw up warning signs on the dash but not fault codes. That still wouldn't explain the rough idle however.
Which plugs did you use and where did you buy them from? Did you double check the boxes to ensure you the plugs you installed are what you ordered and are the correct ones?
Did you check the oil level before going on the drive?
Any chance you ran over something on the drive? Did you check the undertray, transmission and engine for damage?
Any chance one of two cables on the battery terminal is loose at either end?
Have you done any other work on the car recently prior to this service?
Good thoughts, thanks. I did a few pics and have inspected them. I was very careful with all of the lines and double checked that I re-attached everything including snapping the lines back into their keepers. I only removed the cover, not the entire box. The plugs were correct (Bosch) and I checked the gap on each. Bought from Rock Auto. The oil level was good (second oil change by me) and no damage or leaks anywhere. I will check the battery cables. No other work since oil change last year and I found it interesting that there were no codes or issues until 35 miles after this work.
Judging by the fact that the OP is looking to buy a new battery (In another thread) I am guessing the issue was at least partly related to Old Battery and low voltage. (unless OP can chime in and provide update)
updates now in both threads. Thanks for your help. My experience is with various vehicles foreign and domestic just nothing yet this sophisticated electronically but I am persistent and will keep you all updated.
Voltage is part of "optional view" as you toggle through the many screens (to the right of RPM cluster)
if it isn't showing in the same green as oil temp and coolant temps, you may have to go to Settings and add Voltage.
Once it starts showing up, turn key to 2nd position, right before starting, turn off headlights if they are ON, and see if the voltage is at least 12.0 or more. If not, you are in need of a new battery
Toggled and toggled and c/not find an "optional view" or anything associated with voltage?! BTW, just doing that for a few minutes caused the float charger to go from green to red. I use the battery tender plus on this car, I have used this one and the junior for years on various batteries. The battery charge is dropping more than normal just doing minor functions. Surprising cause my load test yesterday showed OK. On way to Costco shortly for an Interstate MTX-49/H8 which looks to be a good replacement (AGM). Will install when it's charged.
Toggled and toggled and c/not find an "optional view" or anything associated with voltage?! BTW, just doing that for a few minutes caused the float charger to go from green to red. I use the battery tender plus on this car, I have used this one and the junior for years on various batteries. The battery charge is dropping more than normal just doing minor functions. Surprising cause my load test yesterday showed OK. On way to Costco shortly for an Interstate MTX-49/H8 which looks to be a good replacement (AGM). Will install when it's charged.
This is where you are trying to get to:
Last edited by desmotesta; 02-08-2022 at 04:28 PM.
Changed battery, followed all instructions for clearing codes and starting, warming and driving. Still misfiring and hard shifts and "engine control fault" came up on control cluster and iCarsoft. NO faults detected for DME or TCM but view data is showing 00A016 warning check engine under "instrument cluster" section and 000401 "current distributor terminal 30 reset". I don't know if it's worth replacing the coil packs or I should just take it to a shop?
02-07-2022, 03:22 PM
