Frunk randomly opening overnight
#1
Frunk randomly opening overnight
New-to me 2012.5; the frunk has been popped in the morning when I go to drive off. Only happens overnight (dew?). Seems to do it by itself, and doesn't matter if the car is locked or not.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
#2
#6
Always possible; but how would it trigger? It has happened about 4-5 times in the last week
hmmm.. indy mechanic just said battery was good ~3 weeks ago.
hmmm.. indy mechanic just said battery was good ~3 weeks ago.
Last edited by cmorales954; 09-28-2021 at 12:14 AM.
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#10
Page 3,057 of the .1 Factory Service Manual floating around seems to have the circuit diagram for the frunk actuator. Maybe take a look at the components for wire damage, or pinching/crimping of the cables, in the areas mentioned in the diagram?
#12
Wasn't sure if that diagram was legible, here is a snapshot of just the actuator circuit. I'd be tracing the black/brown wire from the Front End Control Unit, right side of the luggage compartment, to the Luggage Compartment Lid Actuator.
I'm not sure if this is physically accessible, but you could also check the Brown wire for correct ground i.e. zero potential from the wire to a known ground point on the chassis somewhere.
Lastly, I'd stick a meter on the output of the front end control unit terminal 39 brn/blk and actuate the trunk release. If it's correct that it provides 12V to the trunk release solenoid, then checking terminal 39 has a good solid 12V would confirm the actuator circuit is behaving properly.
If I have the logic wrong (and I might), and the switching part of this is on the ground side (i.e. any switched or otherwise ground on the actuator activates it) then an errant ground will trip the solenoid. In this case, I'd focus on the ground wires and make sure the mount of the actuator itself is not corroded or otherwise providing an unexpected path to ground for the 12V. If you had this, you'd get intermittent operation of the trunk solenoid at times, and the result would be the trunk would pop open.
Bear in mind this is just guesswork from looking at the diagram and trying to figure out how this might work; I'm for sure no tech.
I'm not sure if this is physically accessible, but you could also check the Brown wire for correct ground i.e. zero potential from the wire to a known ground point on the chassis somewhere.
Lastly, I'd stick a meter on the output of the front end control unit terminal 39 brn/blk and actuate the trunk release. If it's correct that it provides 12V to the trunk release solenoid, then checking terminal 39 has a good solid 12V would confirm the actuator circuit is behaving properly.
If I have the logic wrong (and I might), and the switching part of this is on the ground side (i.e. any switched or otherwise ground on the actuator activates it) then an errant ground will trip the solenoid. In this case, I'd focus on the ground wires and make sure the mount of the actuator itself is not corroded or otherwise providing an unexpected path to ground for the 12V. If you had this, you'd get intermittent operation of the trunk solenoid at times, and the result would be the trunk would pop open.
Bear in mind this is just guesswork from looking at the diagram and trying to figure out how this might work; I'm for sure no tech.
Last edited by Rich_Jenkins; 09-28-2021 at 09:08 AM.
#13
Wasn't sure if that diagram was legible, here is a snapshot of just the actuator circuit. I'd be tracing the black/brown wire from the Front End Control Unit, right side of the luggage compartment, to the Luggage Compartment Lid Actuator.
I'm not sure if this is physically accessible, but you could also check the Brown wire for correct ground i.e. zero potential from the wire to a known ground point on the chassis somewhere.
Lastly, I'd stick a meter on the output of the front end control unit terminal 39 brn/blk and actuate the trunk release. If it's correct that it provides 12V to the trunk release solenoid, then checking terminal 39 has a good solid 12V would confirm the actuator circuit is behaving properly.
If I have the logic wrong (and I might), and the switching part of this is on the ground side (i.e. any switched or otherwise ground on the actuator activates it) then an errant ground will trip the solenoid. In this case, I'd focus on the ground wires and make sure the mount of the actuator itself is not corroded or otherwise providing an unexpected path to ground for the 12V. If you had this, you'd get intermittent operation of the trunk solenoid at times, and the result would be the trunk would pop open.
Bear in mind this is just guesswork from looking at the diagram and trying to figure out how this might work; I'm for sure no tech.
I'm not sure if this is physically accessible, but you could also check the Brown wire for correct ground i.e. zero potential from the wire to a known ground point on the chassis somewhere.
Lastly, I'd stick a meter on the output of the front end control unit terminal 39 brn/blk and actuate the trunk release. If it's correct that it provides 12V to the trunk release solenoid, then checking terminal 39 has a good solid 12V would confirm the actuator circuit is behaving properly.
If I have the logic wrong (and I might), and the switching part of this is on the ground side (i.e. any switched or otherwise ground on the actuator activates it) then an errant ground will trip the solenoid. In this case, I'd focus on the ground wires and make sure the mount of the actuator itself is not corroded or otherwise providing an unexpected path to ground for the 12V. If you had this, you'd get intermittent operation of the trunk solenoid at times, and the result would be the trunk would pop open.
Bear in mind this is just guesswork from looking at the diagram and trying to figure out how this might work; I'm for sure no tech.
#14
So, looks like there is something wrong with the front-end electronics control unit -- I am throwing code c12016 (Communications with front-end electronics control unit). The wiring diagram shows that being the core unit for controlling the frunk.
Last edited by cmorales954; 09-28-2021 at 10:02 AM.
#15
Can you locate the FECU and unplug then reseat the CAN bus connector? Might be just a bit of carbon build up or other schmutz on the connector pins. Be an idea to hose it all down with some contact cleaner while you have it apart.
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