Driven D 140 oil for 991.1
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Solana Beach, CA
Driven D 140 oil for 991.1
I have been looking into motor oils..I do track the car now and then...
Ad: https://drivenracingoil.com/i-304977...motor-oil.html
Lake Speed Jr. Video, one (1) of many available. This guy seems very knowledgable and competent:
Driven Oil has a great story..I like it. Any testimonials good or bad, from 991.1 users?
Ad: https://drivenracingoil.com/i-304977...motor-oil.html
Lake Speed Jr. Video, one (1) of many available. This guy seems very knowledgable and competent:
Driven Oil has a great story..I like it. Any testimonials good or bad, from 991.1 users?
Race Car
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 3,672
Likes: 2,365
Driven DT 40 is an excellent oil and best full SAPS oil currently available with moly and zinc additives. The quality is there, no doubt, but it is a boutique oil. My only objection to it is its price at $12+ a quart even at case prices especially with three Porsches getting oil changes every 6 months which is usually about 3k miles. So, I use a much less expensive, but widely available, full SAPS oil and add moly and zinc for about $6 a qt. The advantages/disadvantages of doing this is hotly debated on this forum and others.
The other consideration is that Driven oils are not Porsche A40 approved principally because of the moly and zinc additive package. So,I would not use it while car is still under warranty. No reservations whatsoever with using it if off warranty, however.
Ultimately, it is your car and your money so make an informed decision as to what is best for you.
The other consideration is that Driven oils are not Porsche A40 approved principally because of the moly and zinc additive package. So,I would not use it while car is still under warranty. No reservations whatsoever with using it if off warranty, however.
Ultimately, it is your car and your money so make an informed decision as to what is best for you.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 957
Likes: 431
Driven DI40 is the best oil you can buy for your engine. Really too many benefits to list but soot protection is the most important IMHO. The short of it is that DFI engines produce particles that when looked at using a special technique (there are a number of techniques you can use actually) closely resemble those that would be found in a light diesel engine. You can verify this by reading academic and industry research.
DT40 is for non-direct injected engines so good oil but not for your direct injected engine.
Generally and broadly speaking IMHO running a high quality oil is the single most important thing you can do. Good luck.
DT40 is for non-direct injected engines so good oil but not for your direct injected engine.
Generally and broadly speaking IMHO running a high quality oil is the single most important thing you can do. Good luck.
Race Car
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 3,672
Likes: 2,365
Driven DI40 is the best oil you can buy for your engine. Really too many benefits to list but soot protection is the most important IMHO. The short of it is that DFI engines produce particles that when looked at using a special technique (there are a number of techniques you can use actually) closely resemble those that would be found in a light diesel engine. You can verify this by reading academic and industry research.
DT40 is for non-direct injected engines so good oil but not for your direct injected engine.
Generally and broadly speaking IMHO running a high quality oil is the single most important thing you can do. Good luck.
DT40 is for non-direct injected engines so good oil but not for your direct injected engine.
Generally and broadly speaking IMHO running a high quality oil is the single most important thing you can do. Good luck.
I would also add frequent oil changes to the list of what is important about oil. Best quality oil you can buy (Driven or otherwise) still turns to crap on extended mileage. Your oil does three functions. Not only does it lubricate and cool but it is also the sewage system for the engine. You have to get the carbon and other crap away from the internal engine parts and the very best quality oil is largely irrelevant on this issue. You can use oils with greater detergents but that counteracts your anti-wear additives so it is only helpful to a point. Frequent changes with good oil along with used oil analysis is the key. Using the correct viscosity oil for your particular environment is also important.
Last edited by Fullyield; Jul 1, 2021 at 01:04 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 957
Likes: 431
If you look at the DI40 bottle the front says "formulated specifically for direct fuel injection engines" (ie. makes no mention of turbocharging), which the 991.1 is:
https://drivenracingoil.com/i-304977...motor-oil.html
It just becomes even more important when it's direct injection and turbocharged. If you asked Driven if you should use DI40 or DT40 in this engine they will tell you DI40. DT40 would be for carbureted or port injected engines.
I am not that concerned with LSPI (but would be more if it was a pure track car) and PI can occur on non-DI cars as well so LSPI protection is just an added bonus for me. More worried about soot formation, volatilization, fuel dilution, etc. For example on my turbo charged direct injected Audi 2.0T, which is similar to the Macan, it took out my timing chain in 75K miles, which is extremely concerning. Fortunately I knew to monitor it and caught it before it jumped time. Unfortunately I was required to run VW 502.00 from the dealer doing oil changes on that car until my CPO expired.
I would be very circumspect running cheap oils in these engines. Many are not real synthetic and are crap blends of group 1 and 2 base oils. As you say though, and I 100% agree with you, it is your car and your money so make an informed decision as to what is best for you.
https://drivenracingoil.com/i-304977...motor-oil.html
It just becomes even more important when it's direct injection and turbocharged. If you asked Driven if you should use DI40 or DT40 in this engine they will tell you DI40. DT40 would be for carbureted or port injected engines.
I am not that concerned with LSPI (but would be more if it was a pure track car) and PI can occur on non-DI cars as well so LSPI protection is just an added bonus for me. More worried about soot formation, volatilization, fuel dilution, etc. For example on my turbo charged direct injected Audi 2.0T, which is similar to the Macan, it took out my timing chain in 75K miles, which is extremely concerning. Fortunately I knew to monitor it and caught it before it jumped time. Unfortunately I was required to run VW 502.00 from the dealer doing oil changes on that car until my CPO expired.
I would be very circumspect running cheap oils in these engines. Many are not real synthetic and are crap blends of group 1 and 2 base oils. As you say though, and I 100% agree with you, it is your car and your money so make an informed decision as to what is best for you.
Race Car
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 3,672
Likes: 2,365
If you look at the DI40 bottle the front says "formulated specifically for direct fuel injection engines" (ie. makes no mention of turbocharging), which the 991.1 is:
https://drivenracingoil.com/i-304977...motor-oil.html
It just becomes even more important when it's direct injection and turbocharged. If you asked Driven if you should use DI40 or DT40 in this engine they will tell you DI40. DT40 would be for carbureted or port injected engines.
I am not that concerned with LSPI (but would be more if it was a pure track car) and PI can occur on non-DI cars as well so LSPI protection is just an added bonus for me. More worried about soot formation, volatilization, fuel dilution, etc. For example on my turbo charged direct injected Audi 2.0T, which is similar to the Macan, it took out my timing chain in 75K miles, which is extremely concerning. Fortunately I knew to monitor it and caught it before it jumped time. Unfortunately I was required to run VW 502.00 from the dealer doing oil changes on that car until my CPO expired.
I would be very circumspect running cheap oils in these engines. Many are not real synthetic and are crap blends of group 1 and 2 base oils. As you say though, and I 100% agree with you, it is your car and your money so make an informed decision as to what is best for you.
https://drivenracingoil.com/i-304977...motor-oil.html
It just becomes even more important when it's direct injection and turbocharged. If you asked Driven if you should use DI40 or DT40 in this engine they will tell you DI40. DT40 would be for carbureted or port injected engines.
I am not that concerned with LSPI (but would be more if it was a pure track car) and PI can occur on non-DI cars as well so LSPI protection is just an added bonus for me. More worried about soot formation, volatilization, fuel dilution, etc. For example on my turbo charged direct injected Audi 2.0T, which is similar to the Macan, it took out my timing chain in 75K miles, which is extremely concerning. Fortunately I knew to monitor it and caught it before it jumped time. Unfortunately I was required to run VW 502.00 from the dealer doing oil changes on that car until my CPO expired.
I would be very circumspect running cheap oils in these engines. Many are not real synthetic and are crap blends of group 1 and 2 base oils. As you say though, and I 100% agree with you, it is your car and your money so make an informed decision as to what is best for you.
Again, it is your car and money so use and buy what you want, But there are very good alternatives available for about half the cost. As previously stated, my only issue with Driven is the price which is twice as expensive as Motul, LM, Castrol, M1, etc.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 957
Likes: 431
I have no further comments but preignition is not turbo-specific, only exacerbated by it:
https://www.sae.org/publications/tec.../2018-36-0100/
You can read the full paper if you're interested but the abstract tells you everything you need to know:
On this paper, the effect of different LSPI mitigation strategies on emission levels is evaluated. For this purpose, a 1.0 naturally aspirated port fuel injection (PFI) engine was used. The research engine suffers from LSPI phenomena under rotation speeds below 1000 rpm and high loads. Operation parameters were controlled using a fully instrumented dynamometer cell with incylinder pressure monitoring.
https://www.sae.org/publications/tec.../2018-36-0100/
You can read the full paper if you're interested but the abstract tells you everything you need to know:
On this paper, the effect of different LSPI mitigation strategies on emission levels is evaluated. For this purpose, a 1.0 naturally aspirated port fuel injection (PFI) engine was used. The research engine suffers from LSPI phenomena under rotation speeds below 1000 rpm and high loads. Operation parameters were controlled using a fully instrumented dynamometer cell with incylinder pressure monitoring.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 957
Likes: 431
I just called Driven for fun to see what they say and they said they recommend DI40 but for engines that use both direct injection and port injection they said DT40 should be good as well and you can take your pick. Great to know.
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