DR911s

My oil change protocol:
1) Remove the fan cover and fans without disconnecting the electrical connectors. There is no need to disconnect them or use any pry tools. Thanks to those who taught me and many others via this forum!
2) After popping the engine cover lid release cable from its slot in the engine inlet Y-tube, remove the engine air inlet Y-tube by simply pulling it forward, then rotating it to rest out of the way for access to the oil filter housing cap.
3) Using a floor jack, lift the car one side at a time and place ramps as supports under the rear wheels -- mine get the wheels about 6" off the floor.
4) Place old cardboard or a heavy paper or plastic sheet under the engine area.
5) Find a box of the right height and use it to support the oil drain catch pan close to the underside of the engine oil drain plug to minimize splashing.
6) Remove the oil drain plug.
7) While the oil is draining, remove and change the oil filter. I simply unscrewed the filter cap a few turns but didn't entirely remove it while the oil was draining for several minutes. Then install the new filter with a new O-ring. I had placed paper towels around the filter housing in case of leakage or spills, but that proved unnecessary as zero oil spilled or dripped. Remember that the seal is between the OD and ID of the oil filter housing components via the O-ring and not due to the torque used to tighten the cap after installation.
8) Install a new plastic oil drain plug and O-ring, feeling the the [very] little "snap" as the plug is fully seated. On my car that snap force was very little, almost unnoticeable, but it's been in there about 3 months and about 3k miles thus far including a couple of track days without any issues.
9) Measure the amount of engine oil that drained from your engine. I am assuming that you earlier noted the amount of oil indicated on the dashboard indicator. Mine was still nearly full, in the uppermost quadrant of the gauge display. I used a pair of empty [used] 5-quart oil jugs that including a translucent strip with calibration markings indicating the number of quarts.
You can lower the car now if you choose, or leave it raised.
10) Fill the engine with about 1 quart less than what you drained. Then start the engine and check for leaks.
11) Lower the car to be level on the floor and check the oil level; the engine will have to be sufficiently warm to do so.
12) Add oil in small increments until up to the 3/4 fill mark on the electronic gauge display. That was easy for me since I was pouring the oil from one of those calibrated jugs. Another option which I used was to observe the amount of oil needed via the dashboard electronic gauge, then I put about that amount of oil into an empty jug, then poured that into the oil fill port. Then rechecked the oil level via the dashboard gauge.

My lifted car and my oil drain catch pan/jug are shown in these photos.

Valvefloat991

If you don't jack up the car, you don't need the cardboard box to elevate the drain pan.

You CAN reach the drain plug from the side without lifting the car.

DR911s

I agree, but I want to be able to look over the underside of the car for leaks and any visible abnormalities. And maybe I get a little more engine oil to drain... last change was over 9 qts.