Pilot Spot Cup 2's on 991.2 S - Tire Pressures / Street Driving
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Rather interestingly I was able to purchase Pilot Sport Cup 2's for less than (tire racks price) and $100 less than the 4s from discount tire...
So of course I ordered them, upcoming track day at Road Atlanta!
I've run OEM street tires on the track with the 991.2 S, yes the Pzero's... They were great to learn the limits of the car and not mask mistakes. yes, they are horrible but you still can have fun....
Anyways,
The GT3 guys are saying Michelin Cup 2s recommended street tire pressures are 29F & 31R (psi COLD). On the track they typically start the morning sessions around 25F & 27R (cold psi) and bleed air (as needed) to maintain close to 30-31F & 32-33R (hot psi) throughout the day. Most adjustments are in 2 psi increments (or slightly more on really hot days) based on the hot psi readings taken right after pitting at the end of a session. Do these pressures hold true for the 991.2's?
Tire pressures are important because I do not intend to replace these in under 2,000 miles... Also, I do HPDE about 3 - 4 times a year and canyon driving.
With my past cars I've run Bridgestones RE 980AS on my 997 and PZero on my 991.1, felt it was time to up the grip level.
I do plan on driving these tires on the street, I've read that they are no longer scary in the rain at all... just don't be stupid. Is this correct?
If I got the wrong tires coming, please share.
thanks
videos just for fun of the 991.1 - on Pzero's (sold the vehicle)
So of course I ordered them, upcoming track day at Road Atlanta!
I've run OEM street tires on the track with the 991.2 S, yes the Pzero's... They were great to learn the limits of the car and not mask mistakes. yes, they are horrible but you still can have fun....
Anyways,
The GT3 guys are saying Michelin Cup 2s recommended street tire pressures are 29F & 31R (psi COLD). On the track they typically start the morning sessions around 25F & 27R (cold psi) and bleed air (as needed) to maintain close to 30-31F & 32-33R (hot psi) throughout the day. Most adjustments are in 2 psi increments (or slightly more on really hot days) based on the hot psi readings taken right after pitting at the end of a session. Do these pressures hold true for the 991.2's?
Tire pressures are important because I do not intend to replace these in under 2,000 miles... Also, I do HPDE about 3 - 4 times a year and canyon driving.
With my past cars I've run Bridgestones RE 980AS on my 997 and PZero on my 991.1, felt it was time to up the grip level.
I do plan on driving these tires on the street, I've read that they are no longer scary in the rain at all... just don't be stupid. Is this correct?
If I got the wrong tires coming, please share.
thanks
videos just for fun of the 991.1 - on Pzero's (sold the vehicle)
Last edited by snake eyes; 04-06-2021 at 04:18 PM. Reason: clarifying questions
#2
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#3
Nordschleife Master
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Start pressures are tough, as there are so many things that change it. Honestly, on track with Cup's I find they start to go away around 35-36 psi. So target under that hot.
on my GT3, it feels better to run square pressure, my hot targets are 30-31psi all round.
on my GT3, it feels better to run square pressure, my hot targets are 30-31psi all round.
#4
Three Wheelin'
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thanks for your feedback
Last edited by snake eyes; 04-06-2021 at 04:17 PM.
#5
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The GT3 guys are saying Michelin Cup 2s recommended street tire pressures are 29F & 31R (psi COLD). On the track they typically start the morning sessions around 25F & 27R (cold psi) and bleed air (as needed) to maintain close to 30-31F & 32-33R (hot psi) throughout the day. Most adjustments are in 2 psi increments (or slightly more on really hot days) based on the hot psi readings taken right after pitting at the end of a session. Do these pressures hold true for the 991.2's?
Tire pressures are important because I do not intend to replace these in under 2,000 miles... Also, I do HPDE about 3 - 4 times a year and canyon driving.
With my past cars I've run Bridgestones RE 980AS on my 997 and PZero on my 991.1, felt it was time to up the grip level.
With my past cars I've run Bridgestones RE 980AS on my 997 and PZero on my 991.1, felt it was time to up the grip level.
Rain seems to be a mixed bag and different drivers will tell you different things. Some will say - fine, no problem. Others will say “sketchy AF, stay inside the house when it’s raining”. They're drivable, but not exactly confidence-inspiring. If you want a really confidence inspiring tire in the wet, that’s the Pilot Sport 4S.
Last edited by enzotcat; 04-07-2021 at 09:01 AM.
#6
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I run my Cup 2s at very similar pressures as stated above, never go above 35psi. Unless you take in to the dealer and forget to tell them to not mess with the tire pressures... Also after getting alignment at a well renowned race shop I left and immediately thought what the hell is up.. tire pressure was set at 40+ psi
In terms of wet weather performance, I have been caught out in the rain a couple of times (my car is not a DD). First time was up in the mountains and I thought well that’s the end of fun for today. Not so I was actually pleasantly surprised, however I did have low expectations based on others feed back. Bottom line you can still drive in the wet, just apply some caution or have a little fun
In terms of wet weather performance, I have been caught out in the rain a couple of times (my car is not a DD). First time was up in the mountains and I thought well that’s the end of fun for today. Not so I was actually pleasantly surprised, however I did have low expectations based on others feed back. Bottom line you can still drive in the wet, just apply some caution or have a little fun
#7
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i have found street driving at comfort pressures (29F 32R) to be perfect for me
for circuit driving, i usually start my first session at comfort pressure and bleed to 35F 35R Hot after the session. I know I can get more performance with a few psi lower, but sometimes it takes too long to warm up tires between sessions if you go lower than 35FR hot. I find 35F 35R hot will enable the tires to warm up quickly enough, even after long period between sessions for me to have enough hot tire minutes to enjoy each track session. i've found if i go below 35FR hot, the psi gets too low in between sessions, so i'll be spending most of my session trying to warm up the tires rather than really pushing laps. 35F 35R Hot is good balance to have good proper laps and minimal time wasted warming up cold tires IMH.
for circuit driving, i usually start my first session at comfort pressure and bleed to 35F 35R Hot after the session. I know I can get more performance with a few psi lower, but sometimes it takes too long to warm up tires between sessions if you go lower than 35FR hot. I find 35F 35R hot will enable the tires to warm up quickly enough, even after long period between sessions for me to have enough hot tire minutes to enjoy each track session. i've found if i go below 35FR hot, the psi gets too low in between sessions, so i'll be spending most of my session trying to warm up the tires rather than really pushing laps. 35F 35R Hot is good balance to have good proper laps and minimal time wasted warming up cold tires IMH.
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#8
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Rain seems to be a mixed bag and different drivers will tell you different things. Some will say - fine, no problem. Others will say “sketchy AF, stay inside the house when it’s raining”. They're drivable, but not exactly confidence-inspiring. If you want a really confidence inspiring tire in the wet, that’s the Pilot Sport 4S.
Right after I got my GT3 (new tires just installed) I drove to work to show my friends. It rained hard on the way home, on the freeway going straight, the car just changed lanes on me. I was just driving with traffic not doing anything. It kept hunting and moving all over the place. I took the next exit and hung out for a bit to lower my hart rate. I'm a avid track guy and do AX, so I consider myself an above average driver, this scared the hell out of me. Just keep that info in the back of your mind if it's really cold or wet, or both.
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#9
Three Wheelin'
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I got the tires installed... so far with street driving impressions... I can see why instructors ask you to wait until you get these tires.
The car drives like a go-kart on the road, excessive grip, I could easily see these causing over-confidence and mask mistakes on the race track.
These are clearly a track tire...I can't wait to get them out at road atlanta!
The car drives like a go-kart on the road, excessive grip, I could easily see these causing over-confidence and mask mistakes on the race track.
These are clearly a track tire...I can't wait to get them out at road atlanta!
Last edited by snake eyes; 04-12-2021 at 08:37 AM.
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#10
Burning Brakes
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I'll take note of the feedback on here regarding the starting pressures for the Cup2s, for when I eventually use them on track.
Here's an interesting article on the Cup2s that I just read this weekend. https://motoiq.com/not-all-michelin-...ated-the-same/
Here's an interesting article on the Cup2s that I just read this weekend. https://motoiq.com/not-all-michelin-...ated-the-same/
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I'll take note of the feedback on here regarding the starting pressures for the Cup2s, for when I eventually use them on track.
Here's an interesting article on the Cup2s that I just read this weekend. https://motoiq.com/not-all-michelin-...ated-the-same/
Here's an interesting article on the Cup2s that I just read this weekend. https://motoiq.com/not-all-michelin-...ated-the-same/
Because of this, the tire requirements of a rear-engine Porsche are significantly different than a front-engine and front-heavy Mustang. Despite both cars running a similar sized rear tire, the Porsche tire has far more rear weight and loading that goes into the sidewall, and using a bespoke Mustang tire may hurt the performance and feel of the tire. The same could be true if trying to use a Porsche front or rear tire on a Mustang.
Believe it or not, but these are two identical size Cup 2 tires. Notice the obvious differences in the physical width, tread depth, and especially the differing tread design. What you can’t see are the equally if not more extreme differences of the construction of the carcass, the belt design and layup, and the compound.
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/1279x907/0_20michelin_20pilot_20sport_20cup_202_20vs_20cup_202_20tread_20design_x2_eee13bbba861cad103a50c2bddbd18838df2bf55.jpg)
Last edited by AdamSanta85; 04-12-2021 at 02:31 PM.
#12
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New tires with light rain and over 60deg they are fine. It's when they get worn and it's under 60deg, that they are BAD, they are screechy AF. If it's really raining, just don't even try.
Right after I got my GT3 (new tires just installed) I drove to work to show my friends. It rained hard on the way home, on the freeway going straight, the car just changed lanes on me. I was just driving with traffic not doing anything. It kept hunting and moving all over the place. I took the next exit and hung out for a bit to lower my hart rate. I'm a avid track guy and do AX, so I consider myself an above average driver, this scared the hell out of me. Just keep that info in the back of your mind if it's really cold or wet, or both.
Right after I got my GT3 (new tires just installed) I drove to work to show my friends. It rained hard on the way home, on the freeway going straight, the car just changed lanes on me. I was just driving with traffic not doing anything. It kept hunting and moving all over the place. I took the next exit and hung out for a bit to lower my hart rate. I'm a avid track guy and do AX, so I consider myself an above average driver, this scared the hell out of me. Just keep that info in the back of your mind if it's really cold or wet, or both.
#13
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In terms of wet weather performance, I have been caught out in the rain a couple of times (my car is not a DD). First time was up in the mountains and I thought well that’s the end of fun for today. Not so I was actually pleasantly surprised, however I did have low expectations based on others feed back. Bottom line you can still drive in the wet, just apply some caution or have a little fun
There was also some light standing water on the highway, and the steering was very snappy. No skidding, hydroplaning or understeer. On a wide open 6 lane highway being the only car, I made sharper and longer tugs on the wheel, all was good. Tires had about 3k miles on them, not tracked though.
I am actually considering Cup 2 R's (Ferrari K1 size) and looked up this video. This guy says what coincides with my thoughts on wet driving.
#14
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Hydroplaning is a good way to crash in a 911…of any generation.
Modern 911s are very light for how wide their tires are…which is what prompted the development of Wet Mode for the 992. Mainly, its presence is to give a driver a prompt to engage Wet Mode if he/she wants it on. Or to ignore it at their peril. Once engaged, it can do a lot to help keep the 911 driver who decides to follow the heavier 7 on skinnier tires down the autobahn in the rain—or pass it—only to find the 911 not so…grippy on the way into the offramp. PSM couldn't do much for those types of driver error. They were sort of a last frontier.
Of course, none of that helps 991 drivers.
As for hydroplaning, standing water is all that's needed (and not much) and type of pavement, road crown, low spot, etc all play a role—as do tire design, tire size, tread depth, vehicle weight, and vehicle speed. All things being equal, I'd take a Pilot Sport A/S > MPS4S > MPSC2 on a rainy freeway. I might go the opposite way on a rainy backroad with no standing water and enough heat in the tires—but there's always the risk of hitting a patch of standing water at just the wrong moment. But there's always risk in life. Only time I really had a scary run with MPSC2 was downhill on I-80 in a GT4 during a freak snow storm. Tires were well worn, too. Wet LA freeways weren't a treat, feeling greasy, but slowing down helped. MPSC2 was a massive improvement in the wet over the MPSC1.
Modern 911s are very light for how wide their tires are…which is what prompted the development of Wet Mode for the 992. Mainly, its presence is to give a driver a prompt to engage Wet Mode if he/she wants it on. Or to ignore it at their peril. Once engaged, it can do a lot to help keep the 911 driver who decides to follow the heavier 7 on skinnier tires down the autobahn in the rain—or pass it—only to find the 911 not so…grippy on the way into the offramp. PSM couldn't do much for those types of driver error. They were sort of a last frontier.
Of course, none of that helps 991 drivers.
As for hydroplaning, standing water is all that's needed (and not much) and type of pavement, road crown, low spot, etc all play a role—as do tire design, tire size, tread depth, vehicle weight, and vehicle speed. All things being equal, I'd take a Pilot Sport A/S > MPS4S > MPSC2 on a rainy freeway. I might go the opposite way on a rainy backroad with no standing water and enough heat in the tires—but there's always the risk of hitting a patch of standing water at just the wrong moment. But there's always risk in life. Only time I really had a scary run with MPSC2 was downhill on I-80 in a GT4 during a freak snow storm. Tires were well worn, too. Wet LA freeways weren't a treat, feeling greasy, but slowing down helped. MPSC2 was a massive improvement in the wet over the MPSC1.
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Hi, Thank you all for this information.
as the hot days are comming, I'm about to switch to M CUP 2 in my 991.2 GTS, and I have a doubt on the homologation.
There are no N0 for the Sport Cup 2, so which version shall I use? N1? or Connect? Thanks
as the hot days are comming, I'm about to switch to M CUP 2 in my 991.2 GTS, and I have a doubt on the homologation.
There are no N0 for the Sport Cup 2, so which version shall I use? N1? or Connect? Thanks