mc3456

Actually, no they did not. I saw them appear after a few hundred miles, and then once they started coming up, they’d appear five minutes into every other drive. Anyway, re-installing the old OEM battery fixed the issue. Was bummed to put the extra 35lbs back into the car, but glad the RAS control unit didn’t get permanently damaged from the offending voltage spikes to 17.8V.

Zylinderkopfdichtung

I wonder if a simple voltage regulator might be a viable solution.

Antigravity

Happy Easter all...

To answer you question.... most all modern chargers cannot supply energy to the clamps if they do not see a battery. The reason is because modern chargers have a safety feature built in that if they do not sense a Battery then they will NOT charger or put energy to the clamps. This prevents sparks and also the Charger from just staying on always.

But if you have a extra battery this actually works well being the Car is never taken to ZERO volts so the flags will not come up because the car doesn't even know the battery was swapped. In many cases you will get a flag/s initially if you just pull out one battery and put in the other because the car went to ZERO volts and the computer logs it... so when you put the new battery in and start the car then in some cases a flag shows until the car see's the battery and logs that all is working fine again. It sort of learns the battery is in the car as the poster above said.

Antigravity

Hi MC3456... thanks for you input, and thanks for trying the product. While I cannot say for certain we could have solved you issue, if you ever try this route another time please give us a call. In most every cases the battery is a bit over-discharged if you get a flag, but maybe it was a faulty battery, rare but can happen. But that is water under the bridge so if there is a next time let us know because we performing great in all models of Porsches, but occasinoally we will have a Customer with flags but can usually get that cleared fast. In fact in some of the GT4s we had a similar issue because the GT4s were spiking voltages and our Battery Management Protections kicked in.... but they were not in the 17v range as you dealer said. I really haven't heard much on the C4Ss having an issue, but I'll look into it. We are in tons of Cars with RAS without issues, and the GT3s are our biggest Customer Group and I had my 991 GT3RS running the battery as well without issue.

But I do want to clarify something, I know the Dealer said the battery caused a spike in voltage to 17v, but the fact is a battery cannot create a voltage spike of 17v because a battery can only provide the voltage it is Charged to by an outside source. So a battery cannot put out 17v unless it is charged to that voltage, and most cars systems can't go to that range nor does a aftermarket charger like a CTEK or others. For example the nominal voltage of a Lead/Acid Battery is 12.6v and and for a Lithium Battery it is 13.2v. This is the voltage that they rest at, and will always go to when taken off a Charger, or if you Car is not running and actively charging the battery. The only time the battery's voltage can go higher than its nominal voltage is when it is being charged by a Charger or Cars Charging system. So the Charger or the Cars Charging system is what takes any battery above its nominal voltage and up into the 14.4~14.9v range normally on most vehicles.

Sometimes there is a higher charge rate during colder weather or when you have your A/C or Heated seats on, or are running you Car in Sport Mode and this is due to the Cars computer system sensing the extra accessories and electronics drawing more energy, so the Car kicks up the Charging rate. But again, the battery will only go up to the range that the Alternator is charging it to because it can't put out more voltage than it nominal voltage unless charged, yet once taken off the charger it starts to drop back down to its nominal voltage right away. Additionally an Alternator would rarely put out 17v because that would be severely OVER-CHARGING any type of battery in the Cars system, as well as putting out voltages that are high for the Cars accessories. So I do not know what happened, but I just wanted to point out what the dealer says seems a bit inaccurate in describing our battery causing something to go to 17v. A last fact is that our Antigravity battery cannot ever put out 17v, and it would not allow itself to be charged by any automotive system that put out above the mid 15v range due to it have a built-in Protections system called a BMS (Battery Management System). So I just wanted to clarify that what your Dealer might have stated was not accurate in relation to our battery. I just had to state our battery, nor any battery can't go to 17v by itself or put out 17v when they are 12v based batteries, only the Charging system could cause it to do that. Also our battery could never damage an RAS because it cannot ever put out 17v since the battery is limited to it maximum charged status by our protections that cut-off at the mid 15v range specifically as part of its protections. So that was just to make sure that people understand this, because a Dealer saying our battery did that is not accurate in regards to the 17v aspect.

So as you stated that you car stopped having flags when you swapped back to your original battery and I'm glad to hear that. But just wanted to state that most anytime that a Porsche experiences flags with our Antigravity battery is because our battery is low in its capacity, or the car is putting out higher voltage and our BMS protections are kicking in (quite rare but we have seen it) , or the battery itself might be faulty, in which case we would change it out or refund you fully if you were not happy. We'd be glad to speak to you about it, we just don't want something like what the Dealer said about 17v as being taken as accurate since it can't actually do that.

Maverick Legacy

Hi everyone....
Just thought I'd share my reservations.

I have a 2016 turbo s which I bought from Porsche east London main dealers back in March.... 23,000 miles

Recently the battery I think must be on its way out. Upon turning the key it slow cranks a quarter of a turn then pauses and cranks normally then fires up.
Okay so take it on a good run for at least an hour...and it starts as it should when hot.

More recently it hesitates now when hot...

The battery says Porsche on it and banner is the brand ....

I have a two year warranty from Porsche on the car....but I suspect the batter is not covered on that.... I wouldn't want to change the battery for fear of invalidating the existing warranty. I do have a breakdown plan with Porsche..... So it looks like I may have to take it out....wait for the battery to give up and have it recovered by Porsche.

i would recommend putting in the OEM battery on any performance car....notwithstanding I put a halfords battery in my 996

Any thoughts guys?

polobai

If the car is certified, they should have checked or replaced the battery as part of the process. I would call the dealer and ask them-but first check the date stamp on the terminal of the battery to see if it’s the original to the car. If so it should be replaced either way. Changing a battery shouldn’t void any warranty.

rensoyka

my 2017 991.2 carrera C2 was made in 2016 and a check of the top of the battery post confirmed that the battery was the original, I bought the car summer 2022. I noticed that when I forgot to put the car in sport mode the AS/S would invoke but only for a few seconds before restarting the car. for peace of mind I paid for the dealer to install a new H8 AGM battery in spring 2023. the car was still under CPO but I just assumed that it is a wear/tear item and wouldn't be covered, especially since it would still start and run the car. the car still has less than 20k miles (14k when I bought it) but I figured 7 years on a battery is pretty much getting to the limit.

Pb Pedis

mc3456

Yes, the OEM battery argument is ridiculous. Johnson Controls makes like 35-40% of all batteries and the 5.5 year old Varta battery in my Alfa Romeo is identical in spec, casing, and design to an Interstate battery which I recently switched to. Aside from a quick trunk and steering re-calibration which took all of 2 mins, it is a very seamless transition.

I also went from a 1 year old Banner to an AG H-7 60Ah without any issues. Just had to drive the car for 3-5 mins, cycle the start up, and lock the doors 2x for it to calibrate to the car. Pretty sure the Banner battery is also made by Johnson Controls (now named Clarios). The spec, casing design is also identical to an Interstate battery too, minus the all black casing instead of white & black Interstate casing.

The Banner, Interstate, and Varta batteries are all made in Germany…likely at the same plant. You aren’t voiding your warranty by getting a non-OEM battery.

barncobob

looks like U tried same pic with ur middle finger earlier:}

Pb Pedis

You give me too much credit - I don’t get my hands dirty. That picture is of the tuner shop owner that does all the work on my car, and he sends all his messages to me by invoice.

imagerep

Instead of a new thread, using this one as it appears still active.

I have a 2016 991.1 GTS that was built in 2015, still with it's original battery. It still seems to crank over okay, but it's going on 9 yrs old. Since I take it only out on pleasure drives, The battery is on borrowed time, I would prefer to be proactive and buy a new one then be stuck somewhere.

Today, PCA National will be hosting their Tech Tactics Live, this one on batteries. Their guest will be a rep from Fullriver whom specialize in AGM batteries. I looked this company up and also got some intel on AGM batteries. From their web page, the one they recommend for my 911 (FT890-49) weighs a whooping 61 lbs...wow!

So, my question is to this group, what is the best battery technology I should consider AND what manufacturer would you suggest? SLA, Li-Ion or AGM? And from who? I realize this still stir up the pot with many suggestions to confused me even more. State the pros and cons. Li-Ion is ultra light, but I'm concerned with potential fire danger.

Also, I assume my standard 5A Deltran Battery Tender used for my existing SLA battery is not usable on other technologies, right?

Damn, a simple battery purchase back in the day was just going to Sears and buying a DieHard.

rensoyka

unless you are a track driver weight is irrelevant. I replaced mine last year H8 AGM from the dealer. expensive but peace of mind for at least 6 to 8 years for about 100 bucks per year.

regajohn

Re. Battery maintainer …

I use the CTEK 5.0 MXS along with a comfort indicator hooked directly to the battery. I know they’re good for traditional lead-acid and AGM batteries. CTEK also makes the Porsche branded battery maintainers (and charges significantly less for their own brand). One can run the indicator (which is a quick connect / disconnect) out through the notch under the passenger windshield wiper arm, so one can close the frunk lid, and you don’t have to mess with cigarette lighters

Who is garage has a good video, jump to six minutes

Penn4S

Changed mine last year, went with Antigravity. Had to get in the frunk and manhandle the old battery out. Put the AG in with 2 fingers, could not be happier to get rid of 50+ lbs from the front end.