Horses for courses.

Porsche designed the 911 for a different environment, Sure, everybody is in love with 0-60, 1/4 mile and such and Porsche models can put down some decent times, even as stock.

However, that's not their strength. Some of us have been over to the Porsche PTX or local road course events. My experience is at the PTX over several visits and more than a few laps on the track. They let the drivers beat on their cars and encourage you to go as fast as you feel you can go. This is done lap after lap, for hours.

On my visits there, car have been brought in from the track for brakes (wear items) or from someone taking it off track for safety inspections, not from break-downs. these cars are driven hard by different drivers all day, hard enough to require refueling during the daily sessions.

IMHO, they're not fragile, just designed for a specific purpose.

 

I agree with not just flooring it and dumping the clutch. Make a plan and experiment based on it. For example, first try launching at 2000 rpm. Then 2500, then 3000, then 3500. If you get wheel hop, always back off because that is sudden loading and unloading that can damage or break parts. If you just spin, reduce the launch rpm and/or how quickly you let the clutch out.

You may want to drop rear tire pressure. You probably also want to avoid the water on street tires.

Have fun and let us know how it goes. Like others wrote, the trap speed indicates horsepower and the ET shows driver skill.

 

Thanks all-definitely going for trap speed and not ET to determine where I compare to other tuned cars as far as power and power delivery. I like @pbon approach to taking it easy and I do plan to avoid the water trap and no big burnout-just something to get the rocks off.

 

The thread linked above is an outlier. OP didnt come back and clarify much, just dumped the clutch and now it needs a full clutch. What if he was riding the clutch and didnt know it. It only takes a few seconds to burn it up..

I've launched my car on the streets plenty and it handles it just fine. The car doesnt truly build boost @ 4k RPM max limit that the 7MT reaches and youll find soon that you will need more RPM's. Anything under 3K even with feathering the clutch you'll find that car bogs down too much.

 

The clutch in the PDK is completely different than the clutch in the manual. The key difference is that it's a wet clutch, with fluid circulating to keep the plates form overheating. That's what allows the clutch to slip during a lunch control start without cooking anything.

 

OP clearly stated he dumped the clutch.

Maybe your technique is better.

 

Ideally you would drop the clutch at sufficient rpm to light up the rear tires and have them spin long enough so that by the time they hooked up the boost was in. For a 991.2 that would take a clutch drop around 6000 rpm. Unfortunately the car won't let you do a clutch drop much above 4000 rpm.

 

It’s here-making some runs now.

 

Awesome. Have you been kicked off the track yet? My local track enforces NHRA rules so a trap under 11.5 or over 135 gets you kicked off unless you have a bunch of extra safety stuff.

 

It seems like keeping the spoiler down would help on the big end. I always took the wicker off my Z06 for drag runs or 1/2 mile events.

 

We need results! Some of us live vicariously -- its winter in NH so no possibility of a dragstrip run for me. Even if it went badly. Let us know why. Until I started drag racing a little, I thought it was easy. Then I realized how hard it is, particularly with a manual transmission RWD car with lots of power. An automatic AWD car with launch control is not nearly as challenging.

 

Thanks-unfortunately I didn’t end up getting kicked off the track due to being too fast . I would say that in the end, the car did well-no issues, no errors or lights and drove back home with no issues. I was disappointed in the trap speeds I was able to achieve as I was expecting more. The et I could care less about-although I feel I did drive it well on the track all things considering. Here are the runs-I am 7503


First run up top to the final run on the bottom.

Here are the two best runs for the night.

 

So I was expecting to hit at least 123-124mph for trap speeds-as you can see I saw just under 120mph. Doesn’t seem like much but doesn’t match the power I put down on the dyno. I have done some upgrades since the dyno (meth, blow off valves, 3 year maintenance including spark plugs, etc). I am going to give the car a once over to make sure nothing is loose or off that can be causing a loss of power. I may also put it back on the dyno to see where the power levels are to put my mind at ease.

 

Seems pretty consistent with the power.

As everybody says, dynos are only good for showing gains/changes in tunes/modifications.

Knowing the weight of the car/driver and your trap speed you can work backwards to a pretty reliable number for the power your car put down yesterday.

What would have been ideal was running you car after your first dyno (when you believed/know it was running its best) and get a sense of what your trap speeds were then. You could then calculate the difference in calculated power versus the dyno runs, and have a sense of what the delta would be between the 2 numbers.

And then after methanol injection upgrade see if the trap speeds changed at all. Did you retune the car after installing the methanol injection?

What tune are you running?

120 mph is still very quick!

 

Very consistent. You have to go back and try for high 11s at 120! So close.