Anyone know anything about evap system? (check engine light)
#46
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I do have that part number on the invoice. 9A2-110-095-03 Breather line. The notes say the tank vent valve was slow to switch and caused the fault code, tank ventilation pressure sensor fault. They replaced the tank vent to fix it. No check engine light anymore, so hopefully that’s all for my issue.
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enzotcat (06-16-2021),
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#47
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Slight Update - Dealer came back with they cant connect my car to get a vehicle report (VAL) so they cant touch the car basically cause they cant pull the log. They are aware the car is tuned but curious if anyone else that dropped their tuned car had their log pulled?
#48
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Try another dealer. Either they’re lying or they’re incompetent - my dealer was aware that it was tuned and was able to pull all the diagnostics they needed. I also had my own PIWIS III and I could see everything I needed. I’m guessing that when you say “pull the log” you mean the DTC codes from the ECU, and the history of faults.
#49
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Try another dealer. Either they’re lying or they’re incompetent - my dealer was aware that it was tuned and was able to pull all the diagnostics they needed. I also had my own PIWIS III and I could see everything I needed. I’m guessing that when you say “pull the log” you mean the DTC codes from the ECU, and the history of faults.
I am not sure its worth taking to another dealer for me. I think closest would be 3-4 hours away. My only options are do it myself or have my indy take care of it. Anyone have any pictures or where the line runs along the side of the car. I could probably knock it out myself.
#50
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I could pull the codes and so could the dealer. They told me for warranty work they need to pull a VAL (vehicle activity log) first and they could not do that? But they would gladly diagnose it and fixed it if I paid out of pocket... I picked up the car this morning and spoke to the shop manager and I could tell her was lying between his teeth.
I am not sure its worth taking to another dealer for me. I think closest would be 3-4 hours away. My only options are do it myself or have my indy take care of it. Anyone have any pictures or where the line runs along the side of the car. I could probably knock it out myself.
I am not sure its worth taking to another dealer for me. I think closest would be 3-4 hours away. My only options are do it myself or have my indy take care of it. Anyone have any pictures or where the line runs along the side of the car. I could probably knock it out myself.
I very much doubt you can do the work yourself unless you have a very complete workshop - this is not the front-to-back line, it's the "breather" line that contains check valves. It's on the engine itself, and it needs to have the engine lowered in order to replace it. That in turn requires them to remove the rear bumper, struts, intercoolers before they can lower the engine. The part is about $300, and I imagine that the labor at Porsche rates of something like $300/hour with a conservative 5-6 hours of work for them would be close to $2k. From my service record, this is what they did: "Removed rear apron, removed spoiler, removed air cleaner housing, removed rear wheels, removed rear struts, removed intercoolers, removed rear axle carrier, removed engine support plate, lowered engine, removed cyl 2 and 3 ignition coils tro make room for vent line fitting, removed vent line with tank vent valve. installed new vent line, raised engine, installed support plate, installed intercoolers, installed rear struts, installed rear axle carrier, installed rear wheels, apron and spoiler"
See my post - #13 in this thread - for the location of the breather line. It is essentially the items numbered 1 through 4 in the picture; they are sold as a single part.
Last edited by enzotcat; 07-07-2021 at 05:11 PM.
#51
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Regarding the VAL for warranty work - I call BS on that. My dealer did no such thing or, if they did, they had no problem getting it from the car. They may need reminding that a federal emissions warranty applies here; there's nothing like a little hint of "I'm gonna sue yer a**" to get them to do things.
I very much doubt you can do the work yourself unless you have a very complete workshop - this is not the front-to-back line, it's the "breather" line that contains check valves. It's on the engine itself, and it needs to have the engine lowered in order to replace it. That in turn requires them to remove the rear bumper, struts, intercoolers before they can lower the engine. The part is about $300, and I imagine that the labor at Porsche rates of something like $300/hour with a conservative 5-6 hours of work for them would be close to $2k. From my service record, this is what they did: "Removed rear apron, removed spoiler, removed air cleaner housing, removed rear wheels, removed rear struts, removed intercoolers, removed rear axle carrier, removed engine support plate, lowered engine, removed cyl 2 and 3 ignition coils tro make room for vent line fitting, removed vent line with tank vent valve. installed new vent line, raised engine, installed support plate, installed intercoolers, installed rear struts, installed rear axle carrier, installed rear wheels, apron and spoiler"
See my post - #13 in this thread - for the location of the breather line. It is essentially the items numbered 1 through 4 in the picture; they are sold as a single part.
I very much doubt you can do the work yourself unless you have a very complete workshop - this is not the front-to-back line, it's the "breather" line that contains check valves. It's on the engine itself, and it needs to have the engine lowered in order to replace it. That in turn requires them to remove the rear bumper, struts, intercoolers before they can lower the engine. The part is about $300, and I imagine that the labor at Porsche rates of something like $300/hour with a conservative 5-6 hours of work for them would be close to $2k. From my service record, this is what they did: "Removed rear apron, removed spoiler, removed air cleaner housing, removed rear wheels, removed rear struts, removed intercoolers, removed rear axle carrier, removed engine support plate, lowered engine, removed cyl 2 and 3 ignition coils tro make room for vent line fitting, removed vent line with tank vent valve. installed new vent line, raised engine, installed support plate, installed intercoolers, installed rear struts, installed rear axle carrier, installed rear wheels, apron and spoiler"
See my post - #13 in this thread - for the location of the breather line. It is essentially the items numbered 1 through 4 in the picture; they are sold as a single part.
I recall reading post 13 before but when I saw the part I thought it was an easy task.
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#52
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Update - Returned the car back to stock and before taking it in I called to make an appointment and dealer does not want to touch it. I called PCNA and they called and could not come to some sort of resolution with the dealer. Looking for input on what my options are at this point? They are the only dealer near me within 4-5 hours.
Do I just take it to my indy and have them do the work out of pocket?
Do I just take it to my indy and have them do the work out of pocket?
#54
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Update - Returned the car back to stock and before taking it in I called to make an appointment and dealer does not want to touch it. I called PCNA and they called and could not come to some sort of resolution with the dealer. Looking for input on what my options are at this point? They are the only dealer near me within 4-5 hours.
Do I just take it to my indy and have them do the work out of pocket?
Do I just take it to my indy and have them do the work out of pocket?
I would stop going to them. I would complain to PCNA again. I would find another shop that can do the work. And, if you’re not sensitive to money, I’d contact a lawyer and initiate proceedings against them - honestly, it’s a long shot to think that you’d have success *despite* what others would have you believe, Magnusson-Moss Act notwithstanding, but a simple lawyer intervention may well cause them to think twice.
That said, figure it at < $2,000 parts + labor to repair the problem at a dealer, probably less at an independent shop. Then do the calculus of whether you want to go down the (expensive) legal path, or if you’re just going to suck it up and pay your independent shop to do the work. Definitely not an ideal situation by far, but it perhaps may ultimately wind up being the fastest and cheapest route to fixing your car.
#55
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If it is under warranty, they cannot deny you service to get that fixed.
#56
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I have a Softronic tune, ('17 base) car threw the P24D6 code Sunday (8/1) after 2 days at DE, Watkins Glen. Monday, Indy shop checks it out, code disappears with no info. Tuesday (today) code comes back, Indy shop diagnoses the "P24D6, TANK VENT PRESSURE SENSOR". Car is under extended warranty, planing on removing Softronic tune for Thursday appointment. Scott said removing the tune will clear the CEL. So if/when I reinstall the tune , will the CEL come back?
#57
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Pretty sure it will still come back on. This seems to be a relatively common problem with the 2017 model year. See above for the part that I had replaced that fixed the problem - breather line with check valve. It's either that or the 1st part I had replaced that will fix your problem (didn't fix mine, but did fix some others). There have been others who did not get a tune that had the same problem. The breather line has gone through 3 revisions, so I suspect the original part had issues.
Bottom line - you're going to need to get the part replaced.
Bottom line - you're going to need to get the part replaced.
I have a Softronic tune, ('17 base) car threw the P24D6 code Sunday (8/1) after 2 days at DE, Watkins Glen. Monday, Indy shop checks it out, code disappears with no info. Tuesday (today) code comes back, Indy shop diagnoses the "P24D6, TANK VENT PRESSURE SENSOR". Car is under extended warranty, planing on removing Softronic tune for Thursday appointment. Scott said removing the tune will clear the CEL. So if/when I reinstall the tune , will the CEL come back?
#58
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Pretty sure it will still come back on. This seems to be a relatively common problem with the 2017 model year. See above for the part that I had replaced that fixed the problem - breather line with check valve. It's either that or the 1st part I had replaced that will fix your problem (didn't fix mine, but did fix some others). There have been others who did not get a tune that had the same problem. The breather line has gone through 3 revisions, so I suspect the original part had issues.
Bottom line - you're going to need to get the part replaced.
Bottom line - you're going to need to get the part replaced.
#59
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#60
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It may take a little while for it to reappear, btw - sometimes it took as much as a week for mine to come back on. For me I found that acceleration at about 60-80% throttle in 2nd or 3rd would typically produce it, especially if you started from around 3,000rpm. Good luck reproducing it! And when you do, be sure to tell the dealer the part numbers that you want replaced - I would strongly suggest you have both of them replaced (9A2-110-095-03 Breather line and 7P5906051, which is a replacement for 9A1-606-114-00), because both can cause the problem and you really don't want to have to go back to the dealer a 2nd time.