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Bummed out this has to be my first post but excited to join this awesome community!
Traded in my daily driver for my new to me 2015 911 Carrera. Had low miles (15k), and had a few options that I fell in love with.
Been driving it the past few days, put over 500 miles already and it’s been very surreal. Dealer did mentioned there was an issue with the engine cover not being able to pop open and he has the part ordered. Wrote in the deed of sale that he’ll cover the repair, so hoping this issue is related to my check-engine light.
When I got the car there were no check-engine lights, however this morning I decided to try and open the engine hatch. I pulled the emergency lever in the front trunk. No luck with the hatch opening, only the trunk lock moved. Started the car a few hours ago and what do you know...Check engine light with the dash stating “Engine Control Fault Consult a workshop Driving permitted”. Scanned and got code 92100: Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit/Open.
Would me pulling that lever cause the check engine light to pop up? Also, is it still ok to drive? I’m having withdrawls already!
I’d appreciate any help. Scheduled an appointment at my local Porsche dealership for tomorrow morning so hopefully this isn’t too costly
Bummed out this has to be my first post but excited to join this awesome community!
Traded in my daily driver for my new to me 2015 911 Carrera. Had low miles (15k), and had a few options that I fell in love with.
Been driving it the past few days, put over 500 miles already and it’s been very surreal. Dealer did mentioned there was an issue with the engine cover not being able to pop open and he has the part ordered. Wrote in the deed of sale that he’ll cover the repair, so hoping this issue is related to my check-engine light.
When I got the car there were no check-engine lights, however this morning I decided to try and open the engine hatch. I pulled the emergency lever in the front trunk. No luck with the hatch opening, only the trunk lock moved. Started the car a few hours ago and what do you know...Check engine light with the dash stating “Engine Control Fault Consult a workshop Driving permitted”. Scanned and got code 92100: Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit/Open.
Would me pulling that lever cause the check engine light to pop up? Also, is it still ok to drive? I’m having withdrawls already!
I’d appreciate any help. Scheduled an appointment at my local Porsche dealership for tomorrow morning so hopefully this isn’t too costly
A yellow color fault usually indicates the car is drivable within reason to get to your mechanic and you shouldn’t have to worry about engine damage. If the color is “red” you shouldn’t drive the car or start the engine; have your car towed. The fault code indicates its likely a throttle body sensor or bad wire connection. As far as costs, it could be $400-$800 plus labor. The cost may increase based on the number of hours it may take to diagnose the problem. Best of luck.
A yellow color fault usually indicates the car is drivable within reason to get to your mechanic and you shouldn’t have to worry about engine damage. If the color is “red” you shouldn’t drive the car or start the engine; have your car towed. The fault code indicates its likely a throttle body sensor or bad wire connection. As far as costs, it could be $400-$800 plus labor. The cost may increase based on the number of hours it may take to diagnose the problem. Best of luck.
Appreciate it Sidvicious! Gives me a little peace-of-mind. Good to know I can drive it to the Porsche Dealership atleast. I'll be sure to update this thread once I figure everything out, Thanks again -
Or take to an indy. The part should be $70. Porsche dealers charge obscene mark ups on parts and labor. Someone here should be able to point youto a qualified indy in your area.
QUOTE=RebelWerks;16655694]Appreciate it Sidvicious! Gives me a little peace-of-mind. Good to know I can drive it to the Porsche Dealership atleast. I'll be sure to update this thread once I figure everything out, Thanks again -[/QUOTE]
Or take to an indy. The part should be $70. Porsche dealers charge obscene mark ups on parts and labor. Someone here should be able to point youto a qualified indy in your area.
QUOTE=RebelWerks;16655694]Appreciate it Sidvicious! Gives me a little peace-of-mind. Good to know I can drive it to the Porsche Dealership atleast. I'll be sure to update this thread once I figure everything out, Thanks again -
[/QUOTE]
Def will consider Indy shops in my area when it’s on my dime, but since the dealer is covering the cost I’d prefer it go to Porsche. Also had two recalls on the vehicle they’ll be looking at. Dropped the car off this morning and funny enough the check-engine light went away once the technician sat in the vehicle...Said he could still pull the code but funny how this happens way too often with check-engine lights.
I’ll update this thread with what the tech says / what needs to be fixed. Will also share the repair cost Incase anyone stumbles across this same issue.
Did you have any performance reduction? I would assume the engine going in to limp home if a problem were detected with the throttle body.
I did feel like the car idled a bit rough on cold starts so I brought that up to the tech...Acceleration felt a bit off as well at times so when i got the code for the throttle actuator figured that was the reason for both issues I had.
Ended up getting the inspection report from Porsche yesterday...I must say, Very detailed with photos and explanations. I've only owned mopar brand cars and have never got this type of customer service. It's nice for a change! Report came back to show DME connector had signs of moisture & scorching on pins for the throttle body...Recommendation was to have the tech clean them and if the problem continues the engine wiring harness needs to be replaced. For cleaning alone it was $370 + $185 to bring the car in and have it looked at.
The rear trunk motor was seized as well so this had to be replaced, that came in at $565 + Trunks lid supporters were failing + $245. Total of all the repairs was around $1400. Very fortunate the dealer I got the car from is taking care of this, feel thankful I didn't deal with a deadbeat dealership.
I atleast have somewhat peace-of-mind with my 911 purchase.
Last edited by RebelWerks; 05-28-2020 at 03:36 PM.
Reason: Forgot to quote.
Scorching : maybe the throttle body became really hot and maybe that caused the rubber seal to be less tight, thus leading to moisture? Your mileage is low so this DTC is a bit unexpected this early in the life of the engine.
If the Porsche tech shared you pictures, I would be interested to see them - thinking about anything that could go wrong when keeping a 991.1 for long term or buying a used 991,1 (especially with high mileage).
Scorching : maybe the throttle body became really hot and maybe that caused the rubber seal to be less tight, thus leading to moisture? Your mileage is low so this DTC is a bit unexpected this early in the life of the engine.
If the Porsche tech shared you pictures, I would be interested to see them - thinking about anything that could go wrong when keeping a 991.1 for long term or buying a used 991,1 (especially with high mileage).
Anytime! Just trying to pay it forward since forums have held me down for so many years when I stumble across car issues...
I attached an image of the scorching / moisture. When I pick the car up i'll ask more about the moisture issue and possible causes of how it got damaged.
Wow, that is a great picture, super helpful and I have to say, very nice find from the Porsche tech, hats to him /her!
I misunderstood your previous post, the scorching his on the DME connector, I don't know why I thought it was on one of the pin of the throttle body connector, sorry for my misunderstanding.
Usually the DME connector has a very good seal, so I have no idea how moisture could have come inside. Would be worth asking the tech if the DME connector was easier or more difficult to remove comparatively to other 991.1s as this could be an indication as to if the rubber seals are in good condition or not (if it is harder to remove, maybe the seals are rubbing more or maybe they are partly worn)
If the scorched pin are one of the two pins of the DME connected to the electrical motor of the throttle blade (one positive pin and one negative pin) and if the motor of the throttle blade overheated because the blade was stuck at some point (any coking on the blade?), then it could explain why the pin overheated and hence the scorching. Anyway, it's just a speculation as I have no idea about the DME pin assignment - I was just wondering if you could have the problem again in the future or not ( I hope not, fingers crossed).
Wow, that is a great picture, super helpful and I have to say, very nice find from the Porsche tech, hats to him /her!
I misunderstood your previous post, the scorching his on the DME connector, I don't know why I thought it was on one of the pin of the throttle body connector, sorry for my misunderstanding.
Usually the DME connector has a very good seal, so I have no idea how moisture could have come inside. Would be worth asking the tech if the DME connector was easier or more difficult to remove comparatively to other 991.1s as this could be an indication as to if the rubber seals are in good condition or not (if it is harder to remove, maybe the seals are rubbing more or maybe they are partly worn)
If the scorched pin are one of the two pins of the DME connected to the electrical motor of the throttle blade (one positive pin and one negative pin) and if the motor of the throttle blade overheated because the blade was stuck at some point (any coking on the blade?), then it could explain why the pin overheated and hence the scorching. Anyway, it's just a speculation as I have no idea about the DME pin assignment - I was just wondering if you could have the problem again in the future or not ( I hope not, fingers crossed).
appreciate your detailed response! I am a bit mechanically inclined but I try my best to be hands on when I can hah. The Porsche world is new to me so I’m not too familiar with them yet. That could be a possibility of the scorching, seems plausible.
still waiting to get the car back, so i will def ask more detailed questions when I see the tech. Tech did mention in the report that if the problem were to happen again, I will need to replace the entire Engine wiring harness...Hoping this doesn’t happen, from my research it seems fairly expensive to replace / labor intensive.
I should have mentioned the car had 3 previous owners. 2 in Florida (humid) and 1 in Seattle (rainy). I am the 4th owner and Oregon is also rainy...Wondering if the weather has anything to do with the causes.
thanks for your reply, interesting feedback as well. Electrical / electronic systems don't like humidity.
May be worth investing in an extended warranty if you don't already have one - engine wiring harness is effectively long to replace.
thanks for your reply, interesting feedback as well. Electrical / electronic systems don't like humidity.
May be worth investing in an extended warranty if you don't already have one - engine wiring harness is effectively long to replace.
After seeing the costs of labor / parts, def seeking an extended warranty. Would you happen to know any suggestions? Since my model is a 2015, the factory warranty is expired.
Was looking into one through Porsche, just not sure how much it will be. Car is in great condition with close to 16k miles, not sure if that effects warranty costs.
05-26-2020, 12:41 AM
Check Engine Light - P2100
