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Hooking up dash camera. Can someone help me with determining where to add a fuse circuit for constant power and add a fuse circuit for switched power? Want to wire in passenger compartment. Photo below. Thanks for the help!
I was just in there yesterday to wire a radar detector, but my fuse slots aren't exactly the same as yours. Tips which I hope may be helpful:
The slots with no fuses are not powered, so are not candidates (I've had other cars where they were, which would be ideal)
Your glove-box owners manual says exactly what each fuse services. So use that as a reference to both help guide picking which are ignition and which are battery; also you can then pick a "less critical" circuit to tap. For example, on my car, the bottom row, 6th slot from the left was only "passenger seat ventilation" so that is the one I used.
You can also use your voltmeter to verify battery vs ignition.
The slots with no fuses are not powered, so are not candidates (I've had other cars where they were, which would be ideal)
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Good to know. I assumed all the slots with metal inserts to accept a fuse were powered and the ones without inserts were not. I’ll have to buy a voltmeter unless I can find specific fuses that are constant/switch via you guys Any issues with overloading the circuit if piggy backing a fuse?
Good to know. I assumed all the slots with metal inserts to accept a fuse were powered and the ones without inserts were not. I’ll have to buy a voltmeter unless I can find specific fuses that are constant/switch via you guys Any issues with overloading the circuit if piggy backing a fuse?
Your dash cam will not draw enough amperage to overload the circuit. Just add the proper fuse in your add a circuit adapter and you will be fine.
On my 2012 991.1 Carrera S, the 2nd slot in on the bottom row was empty, and it is a switched supply. That's what I used for my radar detector. Not sure about where to tap for "Always on".
Good to know. I assumed all the slots with metal inserts to accept a fuse were powered and the ones without inserts were not.
Whoops - I didn't look at your pic close enough to see that the empty slots in the bottom row on your car appear to have metal inserts at both fuse blades, and so likely would work fine. On my car (2018 Turbo), every empty slot lacked the metal inserts.
Unfortunately, none of the posts on this subject say “x fuse spot” is a constant. I’m not interested in hardwiring straight to a power block and want to stick to fuse box.
I’ve found a few empty fuse spots that have power without car to accessory spot - but still not 100% sure if they are constant or delayed. These spots only have a slot at 1 fuse blade - but they have power and are labeled “not used” in manual.
The dash cam will stay on all the time if I plug constant and acc wires into any two of these “not used” slots; however, if I only use 1 of these slots and a known switched fuse, the dash camera won’t stay powered on with car off. Is this because the “not used” slots only have 1 fuse blade insert?
It seems most of the fuses slots power on when you unlock the car or open the door - so how can test for a constant at the currently used fuse slots? Am I missing something?
I'll need to look to see which fuse I used but take a look at the manual that outlines the fuses and locations. Then consider which function on your car is on, no matter what. Guessing the horn has constant power as do the headlights.
I'll need to look to see which fuse I used but take a look at the manual that outlines the fuses and locations. Then consider which function on your car is on, no matter what. Guessing the horn has constant power as do the headlights.
I think all the easy ones are on the drivers side and I either I don’t know what I’m doing or the entry and drive feature is making it impossible to test for a constant.
I think all the easy ones are on the drivers side and I either I don’t know what I’m doing or the entry and drive feature is making it impossible to test for a constant.
I agree, it is tricky. e.g the accessory sockets power up when you unlock the car and stay active for about 30mins after locking (good for dash cams) For a constant source I would suck-it-and-see with a low power light bulb attached to your best guess circuit, and peep through the window at it to check after an hour.
Pretty sure I have found a constant that works. I used one of the “not used” terminals - B3 on passenger side. I only added fuse for new circuit, so no output back to original fuse slot. Will confirm it’s not a timed slot after a drive and reviewing parked footage.
Pretty sure I have found a constant that works. I used one of the “not used” terminals - B3 on passenger side. I only added fuse for new circuit, so no output back to original fuse slot. Will confirm it’s not a timed slot after a drive and reviewing parked footage.
HI Colvin, do you have 991.1 or 991.2? Can you confirm the constant fuse slot
HI Colvin, do you have 991.1 or 991.2? Can you confirm the constant fuse slot
Sorry I had not responded and saw this when I went to google to see if there were any new posts/tutorials. I was not successful - I’m not sure there is a constant fuse in my passenger compartment. Maybe I’ll get motivated and change to drivers side at some point. For now, it’s only on while I’m driving.
03-19-2020, 06:33 PM
Assist with Add-A-Fuse in Passenger Fuse Box
Any issues with overloading the circuit if piggy backing a fuse? 
