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You can find a lot of stuff about this on youtube, but for similar scratches on a door of a RAV4 I fixed a couple years ago, I wet sanded from 400 grit to 2000 grit (or 2500, somewhere up there), then a medium cut, then stepped through two of Griot's liquid polishes (a medium and a 2-in-1 finishing, BoS line) to produce the results below.
It's worth noting that liquid polishing alone would never remove these scratches. Wet sanding was required. They look to be around the severity of the scratches you pictured.
M105 is something you use after wet sanding. It's a very aggressive compound and, depending on the pad you use, can burn through paint very quickly. Using it by hand changes the whole game though, as these are designed for use on a DA.
The finish will be semi-glossy, but it will be cloudy looking, especially on black paint. You'll need a finer, finishing polish afterwards.
Rule of thumb is to use the least abrasive material that will work for your problem. For the light scratches not visible in the pictures (aka swirls), the heaviest duty stuff I'd touch off Meg's line is the M82. For your visible scratches there, if your fingernail catches you'll need to wet sand if they aren't too deep, or repaint if they are. If wet sanding, then yes, use M105 into M82 (or similar finish glaze to remove M105's marks).
Thanks. I’m going to start off with something lighter and work my way up. I don’t want to overdo it. I can always go with something with more cut, but the marks are very fine - except the one.
This may be a dumb question, but if these parts are metal, does that mean they have clear coat on them and can be polished? If I had my car ceramic coated, would these areas have been coated as well?
09-15-2021, 12:27 PM
