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with the mechanical dials adjusted well to suit the driving conditions.
This is the key, setting up dampers correctly is not for those that are not very good drivers and have a good understanding of vehicle dynamics. My first set of (2) way dampers slowed me down several seconds over a properly valved off the self shock. I probably took probably 3-5 track days to get the car dialed in. In order to get a good setup that out preformed the OEM I needed to configure for different tracks such as rough and smooth tracks, multiple camber and ride height adjustments, changes for different tires... it was a long process and required lots of preparation and testing on track.
Originally Posted by Tom-TPC Racing
Circling back to the first paragraph, regarding spring rates, in 2020, we plan on offering linear-rate stiffer spring kits for OEM shocks with matching DSC mapping to bridge the performance gap between OEM shocks and coilovers.
This is excellent, I have told many that only participate in one or two HPDE's or looking for a more customizable lowering option that this is the right way to go!
Are you also planning on changing rear spoiler/wing setup or is this purely for cooling purposes?
Yes, I am planning on doing some rear Aero. There is an upgraded under body Aero available I have seen. I may customise that on first and see how the car is. I deliberately went a little stiffer in the rear spring to allow for more down force.
Originally I was just going to install the tried and proven Ohlins TTX. Whilst I am sure they would have performed every bit as well on the track, I would have hated them on the street.
I went with tractive after being very impressed with the DSC module.
Stock Sport was too stiff on street.
DSC module, Sport was awesome everywhere and never used normal again.
DSC with tractive, Normal is awesome for the Street, and Sport is Epic on the track. Sport can be a little stiff on the street if the raod is very rough and bumpy. But stock like when in normal mode.
If you require a No compromise solution, then tractive is it. The track bug has biten me hard now. I only went 75/150. 75 is awesome for targa which was my origina intention. 75/130 would have been perfect for street and targa.
The 75 was about retaining street ability.
GTS 33/108
GT3 45/120
My Car 75/150
GT3-RS 100/160
So you can see I fall between a Gt3 and a GT3-RS. With the weight of the motor and some more down force at the rear, it will soak up the extra spring rate.
P.S. GT3 owners get in my car and besides shouting JESUS CHRIST this thing goes.....they say it is more comfortable than their cars. Ride comfort.
I'm putting a race seat in next. I have the harness bar already installed. Tractive linear springs
Last edited by 4 Point 0; 10-18-2019 at 02:00 AM.
Reason: Pic
Yes, I am planning on doing some rear Aero. There is an upgraded under body Aero available I have seen. I may customise that on first and see how the car is. I deliberately went a little stiffer in the rear spring to allow for more down force.
Originally I was just going to install the tried and proven Ohlins TTX. Whilst I am sure they would have performed every bit as well on the track, I would have hated them on the street.
I went with tractive after being very impressed with the DSC module.
Stock Sport was too stiff on street.
DSC module, Sport was awesome everywhere and never used normal again.
DSC with tractive, Normal is awesome for the Street, and Sport is Epic on the track. Sport can be a little stiff on the street if the raod is very rough and bumpy. But stock like when in normal mode.
If you require a No compromise solution, then tractive is it. The track bug has biten me hard now. I only went 75/150. 75 is awesome for targa which was my origina intention. 75/130 would have been perfect for street and targa.
The 75 was about retaining street ability.
GTS 33/108
GT3 45/120
My Car 75/150
GT3-RS 100/160
So you can see I fall between a Gt3 and a GT3-RS. With the weight of the motor and some more down force at the rear, it will soak up the extra spring rate.
P.S. GT3 owners get in my car and besides shouting JESUS CHRIST this thing goes.....they say it is more comfortable than their cars. Ride comfort.
I'm putting a race seat in next. I have the harness bar already installed. Tractive linear springs
Thanks Really helpful post. I will definitely go with the tractive. TPC RACING have been patient and very helpful. Professional to deal with. They also provided my mechanic all the information to bring him up to speed with the technology. I appreciate your posts . They are very informative.
Yes, I am planning on doing some rear Aero. There is an upgraded under body Aero available I have seen. I may customise that on first and see how the car is. I deliberately went a little stiffer in the rear spring to allow for more down force.
Watching this space like a hawk . I might just copy paste your setup once I have enough track experience!
I have the same 991.2 GTS and Sonoma local track. After doing 350mm girodiscs front and rear, MX72+ pads (GT3 size up front), track alignment, and endless brake fluid was able to get just under 1:49 this year. 2-3s of that delta vs OP is the new pavement and I'm not a super driver but brake mods definitely helped. I think there is another 1-2 seconds from driver improvement still left.
I can get 1.4G of braking, 1.67G of lateral under compression, and have found the stock PZeros to be better, longer lasting, and more communicative (e.g, they squeal loudly right before losing grip ) than PS4S which tend to fall apart on me if not babied perfectly.
Now with ME20 performance is similar but wear and pad deposits better than MX72+. Love the car. The 992 GT3s sometimes make me jealous but not the 991s any more, the turbo just has so much torque.
Brakes: To make the brakes "bulletproof", up grade front and rear to GiroDisc 2 piece slotted rotors. The fronts are 350mm in diameter, the stock size, the rear rotors are also 350mm in diameter, a 20mm improvement. 2 piece slotted rotors will run cooler: That's what they do. In addition, you will save 5 lbs. a corner GiroDisc VS stock. Another benefit, the rotors and hats are sold separately. So in the future, should you wear though a set of rotors, buy ten and reuse the hats. New bolts are also available from GiroDisc when you order the rotors without hats.Of course you will change out the brake fluid to Motul 660, and bleed the ABS reserver too. You'll need access to a PIWIS device to do this.
Cool the engine: Order a center radiator kit from Suncoast Porsche. It is an OEM package made for hot climates such as Saudi Arabia.
Tires: If you run the stock tires, the front inners will be "eaten". Upgrade the tires....if you aren't happy with available front camber, GT3 lower control arms may possibly be fitted.
My 2017 GTS without RWS, drove incredibly well at Willow Springs. Carrying about 95 MPH out of turn 9, I was able to reach 150 MPH before breaking for Turn 1. This was about the time that I realized that this car, that have over $100,000 in, was too scary fast for me to risk its safety and mine.
I raced at Willow Springs for 10 years with a 993....it had all the safety items, full roll cars, windows net, race seats, fire system, emergency shut off....and it would only do about 125 to 130 dow the front start at Willow Springs.
Tune: I did not to an electronic tune. The car's 450 HP and monster torque are already too much for me. But for about $1,200, you can install a tune and pick up some meaningful horsepower.
I’m a big fan of PCCBs I’ve had them on my 2012 Boxster Spyder several GT3s ( all gone to new homes) and my 2015 diesel Cayenne ( Cayenne has over 104000 miles lots of towing and brakes are like new. Wish I had them on my current 2018 “T” . The PCCBs offer better braking but they also reduce unsprung weight and thus improve handling . Yes they are expensive but they lost last iron rotors
The 991.2 platform is underrated for track duty. I have a stock S with Essex big brake kit and Yokohama Neoava AD09 tires. I'm consistently running low 2:30's at COTA and staying in track limits. I'm a newbie and very satisfied with the level of performance and feel I have many more seconds to lose.
"Our AP J Hook discs have proven to be the most durable option available, and Ferodo Racing offers several pad compounds that are the perfect complement to our discs. They are wildly popular among the GT3/RS crowd right now."
FWIW GIro Disc rotors are lasting longer than AP and cost less. Plus GIro Disc are being made in this couintry and are always avaiilabe. Not so with AP.
$10,000 for a set of two (2), they are replaced in pairs. Do both front and rear and your down at least $20,000.
Once upon a time I bought a 2004 GT3 with PCCBs. First thing, replaced the fronts with GiroDiscs, 350mm, the rears with Serbo? $350mm. I really should have GiroDisc all the way around, but I was too cheap....the GiroDisc are genuine 2 piece with the hats and the rotors available separately, if needed.
I put GiroDisc fronts on my 991.2 GTS, the stock rotors were toast. I'll put GiroDisc on the rear when needed. As an added bonus, the rear rotors are same diameter of the front, 350mm, with longer studs supplied. Stock rear rotors are 330mm.
As I had mentioned before, I get my brake supplies from Apex Performance and deal only with Clare Hamerly (chamerly@apexperformance.net). He sells all manner of brake supplies, and other performance stuff as well. Also note, no compensation asked for, nor received for my endorsement.
10-17-2019, 06:44 PM
. I might just copy paste your setup once I have enough track experience!
) than PS4S which tend to fall apart on me if not babied perfectly.
