I did a full brake job on my 991.1 shortly after I bought it. I really only needed new pads (rotors had lots of life left on them), but I'm super-**** about how clean I keep my cars and the rotors were rusting on the hats (common for German cars) and instead of taking the time to refinishing the hats on the old rotors I just bought new ones and painted the hats flat black with high-temp paint before installing.

Anyway, this is an easy DIY. If you have done brakes on another car, you can do the brakes on your 911. The sensors are a pain to re-use without breaking when taking off the old pads, so I just ordered new ones when I ordered the rotors and pads, and was glad that I did because I broke 2 of the four sets of old sensors.

If you DIY, make sure to order new caliper bolts. They are stretch bolts and are supposed to be a "one-time-use-only" thing, although some folks re-use without any issues from what I've read.

Only "unusual" tool for the job is torx sockets for the caliper bolts IIRC (and they are pretty inexpensive). If you are a DIY'er you'll want a set for other work you'll be doing on the car anyway.

 

Mine were done by my local shop but I decided to do the next round.

Do you have a chart with torque figures to reassemble?

 

They're at home. I'll take a look in a couple hours and post them up here.

 

Here you go! Torques are based on the bolts used. Pretty sure mine were all M12 x 1.5, but the service manual I have shows the rears have M10 and require a lower torque. It's been a couple years so I don't remember exactly. I ordered all my parts through Suncoast and all replacement parts were exact. I just can't remember if there were two different size bolts.

 

Thank you 👍

 

I dug up my receipt from my maintenance binder. Here's all the parts used for a base 2014 991. The bolts were all the same.

 

And do this to the new rotor (hats):

 

Oh yeah (I have dark wheels so I went with flat black)

 

 

Crazy prices quoted $4k by a dealer and $2400 by independent to do all four rotors and pads

 

Hahahaha. Parts are $1300 to the average joe like me ordering directly from a Porsche dealer. I'd imagine the dealer's cost are much lower than that. So they want $3k in labor for a two-hour job (assuming the tech is competent and has done 911 brakes before).

Even the indie's $900 labor costs are out of line (but not compared to the dealer).

I need to start a side-gig doing regular/simple Porsche maintenance for folks.

 

Wow, massive miles from brakes. To show you the difference that tracking does, you should get a laugh out of this.

OEM Brakes GTS 350mm Fr and 330mm Rear.

After 4 track days, both front and rear pads were toast at the same time. (Full Traction on.) (Around 10,000Km total driving.)

Now here's where you can laugh. I put Pagid RSL29 on front but could not get rears. So I put a brand new set of OEM pads on the rear.
3 x 20 min session on a track day and the rear were on Metal. So the brand new OEM pads lasted an hour. (Full traction on.)

I found some Circo track pads and put them on the rear. All was Well, but now my front 6 Pot calipers turned Brown from the heat. (BrownBo's.)

I sold the stock setup, to a base car. A huge improvement for them, and I put a Brembo GTS BBK 380mm front and rear. The FM 1000 lasted about 4 track days (Traction half off. Rear pads 50%)

Put Endless ME20 in the front and they are mint. Endless 72+ in rear. (Traction half off.) I have done 4 track days. The fronts are about 50% but rears are still 90% good. So much better. But the car pulls up like nothing I have ever driven before. The pedal feel is second to none. I run this setup on the street. rear is silent. A few weeks after a track day and the transfer wears off, very mild squeal from front. Less than what stock did.

The total Km's on my car now is 20,000 km. Lesson learnt. turn traction half off on the track. I want to try full off. It is still interfering occasionally. The car is so controllable when it slides with the tractive anyway.

P.S. My 380 mm fronts have surface cracks in them already. But the rear is like new. Leaving traction on, really wears the rear brakes.

 

I wonder what PCCBs would do after similar use?

 

My Race mechanic says that you can get 200,000 Km from PCCB on the street, or 2,000 Hard track Km.

There are quite a few guys in my group that have CCB on Porsche, Ferrari and McLaren. In the first year it seemed like they were indestructible and would last forever. However, as everyone is starting to gain experience and get faster, suddenly one by one, they are getting prices to replace. Which means they are starting to wear.

It's the problem when you track. The more you track, the better you get and the faster you go, and the faster you wear out brakes and tyres. So they become consumables. Therefore it makes steel brakes better for track. You don't want the bill of replacing CCB once a year.

 

91K on the front brakes - rear brakes were replaced by Porsche because of an odd caliper issue at 58k
Rotors and pads at the same time absolutely
PORSCHD OEM for sure and I did it myself
no
Costs? about $700 for pads, rotors, screws, bolts and sensors..on sale art an online Porsche dealer website