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So many people on RL have recommended the JackPoint stands that I went ahead and purchased a pair too. I’m able to jack up the rear of the car in conjunction with these and simultaneously place normal jack stands up front. While they seem to always be out of stock, I contacted him and got on a wait list and got them reasonably/acceptably quickly.
I just did the rear rotors and pads on a 2013 c2. The information on this site and YouTube have been priceless. A couple of things to share:
(1) I found the easiest way to remove the sensor cable is to use a small Allen wrench. Hook the small end in the clip and pull with the other end. It makes unclipping the sensor a breeze. See picture showing what I did. I had unclipped the sensor at this point.
(2) I was torn on how to raise the car from the back as I was reading all sorts of opinions. I ended up raising the car from the back via the middle of the rear cross member and then used esco jack stands in the designated rear jack points. Although not a fan of the height cause putting the wheels on was a pain. If I had to redo I would get shorter jack stands. Any recommendations?
I didn’t think any of the DFI cars had a rear center jack point? If you want low jack stands, then jackpoints are your answer. Problem with those is there is no way to make them higher if you need to get under the car.
Did the front brakes this morning. Very straight forward especially with the tips and tricks across the internet. The one difference i noticed is that the brake line (green) in the front is stiffer than the rear and also doesn’t allow the caliper to move as much once off the rotor. By removing/sliding the rubber connector from its housing (yellow) and loosening the 10mm nut (blue) it gave me enough room to position the caliper in such a way that I could compress the pistons, get the new pads installed and put the caliper back on the rotor.
It was mildly frustrating to see that the previous brake job had the sensor wires inside the caliper instead of the outside on both fronts. I’d imagine it was easier to do it that way but the correct way is not hard to do at all.
It took me 3 hours from prepping to torquing the last wheel nut for the fronts. In total (all 4 rotor and pad replacement) I spent about 6 hours across 2 days.
Hope this helps others thinking about doing their brakes.
so I had always thought it was 63 ft-lb also, and that's what I used the last time I changed pads myself several years ago. I previously also got the 63 ft-lb from various tutorials and posts. to refresh my memory in preparation for an upcoming change, I looked at the service manual and saw 48 ft-lb, which brought up this question. I just looked again a little more carefully, and indeed the service manual appears to have some conflicting info:
under front brakes, it does indeed specify 63 ft-lb
however, under rear brakes, it says 48 ft-lb, but under location it also says "front and rear axle"
furthermore, under description for the fronts it says "M12" and for rears "M10" - but I always thought the caliper bolts are the same front and rear
10-04-2021, 11:44 PM
