No problemo, amigo (I could not access last night):

 

Thank you! I shoulda just RTFM! 👍

 

If everyone read the manual, Rennlist would close in a week.

 

Here's another 4k mile oil sample with 70k on the engine. Interesting that even with great wear numbers I could hear less noise from the engine after a change to fresh oil.
Not much, but if you drove the car every day, you'd have noticed. Makes me realize those who go by manufacturer intervals should definitely trade in for a Camry.

 

Good viscosity numbers.
If you are the original owner, what type of break in did you follow?

Thanks for posting.

 

911mhawk, thank you for posting your UOA. The Mobil 5W50 definitely stays in spec during the oil drain interval.

One metric I find interesting is your Iron level. My car also has the 5W50 and same mileage (72,000) with an Iron level of 4 ppm. But, I do run a billet magnetic drain plug from L&N Engineering.

 

According to Mobil, 5w50 should have a 17.5 cSt vis at 100C.

https://www.mobil.com/en-au/passenge...x-mobil-1-5w50

A 14.18 cSt @ 100C in less than 5k miles isn't good. The 0.8% fuel dilution does not help. That is still better than M1 0w40 which new out of the bottle has a 12.9 cSt @ 100C, but you do mention that the engine is quieter with the new oil. The difference in used vs new viscosity is what you are seeing there.

Since you're in Seattle, it's going to be on the colder side, so that's contributing to the fuel dilution.

What are your driving habits? Short drives?

 

Going to be a bit of a contrarian here but used oil analysis is practically useless except for the following circumstances:

- If you want to see how LONG you can extend your oil intervals for (i.e. 15-25k miles)
- For detecting air infiltration issues which is almost a non-issue on newer cars but is a good thing to watch out for on older cars with dry-rotting seals, etc.
- For detecting fueling issues that result in cylinder washdown/too much gas staying in the oil which again is practically a non-issue on a modern vehicle as any significant fueling issue (i.e. stuck or clogged injector, incomplete combustion) is going to show up via a CEL and a code.

What an oil analysis is almost a complete waste on is:

- Used on a newer vehicle (i.e. less than 5 years old)
- Used with an approved class of oils
- Used with an approved class of oil filters
- Used within a manufacturer recommended oil change interval

What oil analysis in such situations DOES NOT show is:

1. Is the oil protecting your engine? Nope, won't show that. Here's a great example: I had a 2008 subaru legacy GT 5mt that I took great care of and did routine oil analysis. At 25-30k miles a HUGE copper spike showed up for about 2 oil analyses. OMG! Were my rod bearings failing? Where was the copper coming from all the sudden? Guess what, the oil analsys doesn't tell you. In my case, it was an oxidizing oil cooler - so what? Further, blackstone oil analysis only shows metal particulate matter within a very specific range of particle size. You know those shiny pieces of metal you see on those oil magnets? Wouldn't even show up in a standard oil analysis - too big. I believe below 2 microns is too small to show up. So what do you do if your oil analysis shows a huge iron spike or copper spike or lead spide? You panic and freak out and wonder whats wrong with your engine when it is most likely totally fine. (all of these statements are about a modern vehicle in a good state of tune)

2. Is the analysis showing if the oil is "good"? NOPE. Let's say the viscosity shears down. Does that mean the oil is bad? No. What if the viscosity "holds" - does that mean the oil is good? Nope....viscosity could stay the same because the oil is both shearing to **** and the broken down agents are thickening - thereby maintaining viscosity while the oil is actually garbage.

...

I could go on. There is a whole industry and internet obsession around oil analysis that STARTED in long-haul drivers using it to assess the ability to extend oil intervals and has grown into being used for everyday vehicles being maintained in accordance with the manufacturer....which is great for blackstone and internet sharing, but practically useless.

/end rant

P.s. your vehicle is entirely healthy, enjoy in good health

 

I would say that the UOA on this site have shown that Mobil 1 viscosity does not stay within spec over a few thousand miles. This is concerning and some have decided to go with another A40 approved oil. That is the benefit of the UOA- to support a certain oil if you have multiple samples from different cars, years, models, parts of the country.

 

Paralysis by Over Analysis. I dont know why people get these oil analysis, what are you really going to do about it? Get rid of the car if you are worried about it. I have been through so many cars and Never had oil analyzed, still trying to figure out why I would ever need that.

 

I suggest reading what I wrote again. So those UOAs say the mobil 1 stopped protecting ? They showed that the other oils didn’t simultaneously shear and thicken at the same time thereby maintaining viscosity while hiding their breakdown ?

No. It doesn’t show either of those things. Mobil One 0w40 has been a spectacular oil for a long time. It’s barely a 40 weight oil and has a very standard profile of very mild shearing to a 30 weight and then protecting for a very long time as a oil at the upper ranges of a 30 weight viscosity.

And yet folks will use improperly interpreted UOA results to say M1 0w40 is breaking down.

 

5w50 is not listed as an approved oil in my manual. ‘19 T. It was in my ‘14 C2 manual.....

 

I was curious about something, I changed my oil for first time the other day (Motul 5W-40, 991.1S), added 7 L, and took it for a drive to check oil level, expecting it to be about 1/2 L low. When I got a reading, it is shows 1 notch over the minimum mark, ok oil level. I added the last 1/2 liter, then drove it again to get reading, when I got reading, no change in oil level. Opening engine compartment to reset the oil check, drove some more, still showing 1 notch over minimum.

I would like the oil level to be 1 or even 2 notches higher, even though it says oil level is ok.

Would you guys add some more oil? I was thinking about adding .2 L and checking again.

 

I've always had to add at least 8 quarts, and typically 8.5 quarts.

 

8 QT = 7.57L

So a little more than I already added.... I’ll add 200ML and check and go from there