DIY Car Audio Speaker Upgrade
#61
Mosconi is good choice so is JL Audio. I had Mosconi 60.8 and not enough power. The JL has 80 and the Mosconi has 90. I was told the there was a specific sub output on the JL that had a tunable output to run to another amp or something like that whereas the Mosconi did not have that option. Since I have a sub I went with the JL. Cant go wrong with either..
#62
Yes, we bridged both door woofers so there goes 4 channels. We then sent 1 channel to each of the 2 tweeters and 1 channel to each of the 2 small door speakers. That used all 8 channels.
We then had another output that allowed us to use an external amp for the sub and also use the same DSP. Thats why I went with the JL over the Mosconi, for DSP to an external amp for a sub.
The Mosconi actually has more power and in this case, since my Morels were 4 ohms driven by a 2 ohm amp, I needed all the power I could get. Get 2 ohm speakers if you can..
The installer cut a hard piece of ABS plastic to fit below the amp. He bolted the plastic to the floor of the car and then secured the amp to the plastic, so the amp sits on ABS not sheetmetal.
I didnt tune it, but everyone says that the JL tuning software is very simple and the Mosconi requires some real training and knowledge. If you are doing it yourself then JL would be the easier way to go.
There are no heat issues, the carpet folds right over the top of it but, has a cutout to allow for hot air to escape. I dont know if it came factory like that or if one of the many previous installers made the cut.
The Mosconi was also secured in the same way, with the same carpet on top and it also had no heat issues.
We then had another output that allowed us to use an external amp for the sub and also use the same DSP. Thats why I went with the JL over the Mosconi, for DSP to an external amp for a sub.
The Mosconi actually has more power and in this case, since my Morels were 4 ohms driven by a 2 ohm amp, I needed all the power I could get. Get 2 ohm speakers if you can..
The installer cut a hard piece of ABS plastic to fit below the amp. He bolted the plastic to the floor of the car and then secured the amp to the plastic, so the amp sits on ABS not sheetmetal.
I didnt tune it, but everyone says that the JL tuning software is very simple and the Mosconi requires some real training and knowledge. If you are doing it yourself then JL would be the easier way to go.
There are no heat issues, the carpet folds right over the top of it but, has a cutout to allow for hot air to escape. I dont know if it came factory like that or if one of the many previous installers made the cut.
The Mosconi was also secured in the same way, with the same carpet on top and it also had no heat issues.
#63
Yes, we bridged both door woofers so there goes 4 channels. We then sent 1 channel to each of the 2 tweeters and 1 channel to each of the 2 small door speakers. That used all 8 channels.
We then had another output that allowed us to use an external amp for the sub and also use the same DSP. Thats why I went with the JL over the Mosconi, for DSP to an external amp for a sub.
The Mosconi actually has more power and in this case, since my Morels were 4 ohms driven by a 2 ohm amp, I needed all the power I could get. Get 2 ohm speakers if you can..
The installer cut a hard piece of ABS plastic to fit below the amp. He bolted the plastic to the floor of the car and then secured the amp to the plastic, so the amp sits on ABS not sheetmetal.
I didnt tune it, but everyone says that the JL tuning software is very simple and the Mosconi requires some real training and knowledge. If you are doing it yourself then JL would be the easier way to go.
There are no heat issues, the carpet folds right over the top of it but, has a cutout to allow for hot air to escape. I dont know if it came factory like that or if one of the many previous installers made the cut.
The Mosconi was also secured in the same way, with the same carpet on top and it also had no heat issues.
We then had another output that allowed us to use an external amp for the sub and also use the same DSP. Thats why I went with the JL over the Mosconi, for DSP to an external amp for a sub.
The Mosconi actually has more power and in this case, since my Morels were 4 ohms driven by a 2 ohm amp, I needed all the power I could get. Get 2 ohm speakers if you can..
The installer cut a hard piece of ABS plastic to fit below the amp. He bolted the plastic to the floor of the car and then secured the amp to the plastic, so the amp sits on ABS not sheetmetal.
I didnt tune it, but everyone says that the JL tuning software is very simple and the Mosconi requires some real training and knowledge. If you are doing it yourself then JL would be the easier way to go.
There are no heat issues, the carpet folds right over the top of it but, has a cutout to allow for hot air to escape. I dont know if it came factory like that or if one of the many previous installers made the cut.
The Mosconi was also secured in the same way, with the same carpet on top and it also had no heat issues.
#65
Sorry to keep coming back to this thread, but I found the pic of the final install and I thought it might help some of you.
JL amp, mounted on ABS plastic with NavTV installed as well. Note the cut out in carpet as well..
JL amp, mounted on ABS plastic with NavTV installed as well. Note the cut out in carpet as well..
The following 3 users liked this post by PTS-BRG:
#66
Thanks for sharing your picture. it really shows how much space I would have with JL 800/8i+NavTV.
#68
There are two special nuts that you just unscrew to lift the seat out. Also a cable that connects to the seats to send power for heat/cool/ adjustments etc.
You can leave the cable connected and just lean it onto the back seat or if you plan on really doing a full install, unplug it and take it out of the car.
BE CAREFUL
You can leave the cable connected and just lean it onto the back seat or if you plan on really doing a full install, unplug it and take it out of the car.
BE CAREFUL
#69
There are two special nuts that you just unscrew to lift the seat out. Also a cable that connects to the seats to send power for heat/cool/ adjustments etc.
You can leave the cable connected and just lean it onto the back seat or if you plan on really doing a full install, unplug it and take it out of the car.
BE CAREFUL
You can leave the cable connected and just lean it onto the back seat or if you plan on really doing a full install, unplug it and take it out of the car.
BE CAREFUL
#70
#71
I haven’t called actually yet, but have worked with a local dealer multiple times for JL amps and speakers. I’m pretty certain they have a lot of margin and would be surprised if you called around and didn’t get a good chunk taken off. I know in the past with the dealer I used, I was always happy.
#72
I used a Helix V Eight in my install. Here's a picture of the amp in its home. Just another option.
Downside to V Eight is that you can't bridge channels. That's the big advantage of the JL.
I personally like the Helix tuning software, but have never used the JL stuff.
Downside to V Eight is that you can't bridge channels. That's the big advantage of the JL.
I personally like the Helix tuning software, but have never used the JL stuff.
#73
I think the V Twelve would be a bit too big, but the V Eight will definitely fit. There are a few pics over here.
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa...arrera.415081/
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa...arrera.415081/
The following users liked this post:
Rennspec.com (02-03-2021)
#75
As I am about the bite the bullet here, the last piece I am struggling with is the midrange. I’m partial to the Dynaudio stuff but the Esotan MF 171 ($500) vs Esotar 430 ($1500) is a tough pill to swallow. I was wondering if anyone could comment as I suspect the Esotan would be 90+% as good as the Esotar, either should blow the stock system out of the water. If the Esotar will rise me to the heavens then I’m in, but if I can get to the pearly gates with the Esotan, at 1/3 the price I can live with that. I like audiophile sound but I also like my bank account and would say for ~10% or less superior sound but still very nice (in a noisy car), I would choose bank. Let me know your thoughts.
sidenote: mentally I keep thinking I might replace back speakers instead of disabling them, what would be the better option 1. Use ch 7-8 for rears and dont bridge woofers 2. Bridge woofers and unplug back?
Has anyone out there replaced all 5 tweets, 5 midranges, and 2 woofers with amp/s? I know now we’re talking spending money... the look I would get from my wife for even the thought crossing my mind.
Stage 1 for me
Dynaudio MD 102 tweets
Dynaudio midrange 430/171
Rear tweets and mids (if they are kept)
stage 2 (as I get a little more time)
JL Amp vx800/8
Dynaudio MW 182s
nav tv
sound deaden the doors
while things are out maybe a dsc module too
sidenote: mentally I keep thinking I might replace back speakers instead of disabling them, what would be the better option 1. Use ch 7-8 for rears and dont bridge woofers 2. Bridge woofers and unplug back?
Has anyone out there replaced all 5 tweets, 5 midranges, and 2 woofers with amp/s? I know now we’re talking spending money... the look I would get from my wife for even the thought crossing my mind.
Stage 1 for me
Dynaudio MD 102 tweets
Dynaudio midrange 430/171
Rear tweets and mids (if they are kept)
stage 2 (as I get a little more time)
JL Amp vx800/8
Dynaudio MW 182s
nav tv
sound deaden the doors
while things are out maybe a dsc module too
Last edited by smgkc; 02-04-2021 at 03:13 AM.