StormRune

I guess the first think to check is to make sure they are moving open/closed at startup to make sure something isn't wrong with the valves themselves. I'm not sure how quickly vacuum bleeds down when the car is turned off so it may take a small amount of time. I don't know if you can easily unplug the vacuum at the PSE valve location. If you can the valves should open and you should hear a louder exhaust. (I wouldn't drive around like that without capping the open vacuum line though).

If it turns out the vacuum is always on (closing the valves to quieter mode), then no wonder you aren't hearing a louder pop and crackle. If the vacuum IS always on, then it would have to be changeover valve staying stuck in the open position. I'm not sure if the service guy is correct that a code would be thrown on the exhaust changeover valve if it is just stuck open but is still making an electrical connection. There is no way the car could tell whether or not the PSE valves are actually operating (like it can with AC changeover valves and such).

mrchua

Not a P Dealer.
My PSE not programmed also but my exhaust is working.

Did you fix your tip rattle?

adcampo

adcampo

vodkag

i did test your flap with a hand vacuum pump to make sure they are working, you can also see if there is vacuum pressure going through the tubes

adcampo

I don't have that tool.

StormRune

Delete

StormRune

Damn, deleted my last post since I got the answer ***-backwards. I'm so sorry.

The valves are in the loud position when vacuum is off, in the position you are showing, When vacuum comes on they close. Are your valves moving like in the video below when you start the car?

Then when you push the PSE button, they should relax back to the position shown in your photo. If the valves are always closing (retracting) regardless of the button setting, then either the button isn't really working or the change-over valve is stuck open.

If you want to hear what the car sounds like loud, unplug the vacuum line (and plug it if you plan to drive it that way).

adcampo

Thanks Storm. So based on your walker post, the vacuum must be stuck on. I could disconnect the vacuum line from the COV and m they should open?

StormRune

Yes, please see my edit on the post just before yours (last sentence). Sorry for the misleading prior response.

thejazzman

The valves sure appear to be open (loud mode) in your pic with the engine off. Do they close when you start the engine? If they don't close, then they're not getting vacuum - this makes them always open (loud mode).

The difference in volume (open vs closed) at idle is subtile and is probably quieter than you expected. Mine is quieter than I thought it would be at idle.

adcampo

adcampo

They don’t move when I start or turn off the car,

StormRune

So its either a vacuum leak due to something during the installation or a malfunctioning valve. I'd think a leak is more likely.

Unfortunately, you'll probably have to work backwards from the valves and keep checking to see if you can find where the vacuum fails. If you have suction at the line coming into the first valve then you're lucky and the leak is in the line between the valves. However, you can only test for vacuum with the car running so that complicates things (heat and belts). You could also just reexamine all of the connections. Sorry that this doesn't seem easier.

You can find vacuum testers cheap on Amazon and possibly at local auto parts stores. You might be able to tell if there's vacuum at the end of a line using a wet finger over the tip to sense the suction. Edit: Here's a cheap one on Amazon if you need it:

adcampo

A new wrinkle. When I was driving home form the dealer, a coolant system failure code popped up on the dash. An odd coinciendence. I did a quick search and that could be tied to a bad COV.

Looks like it's gotta go back to the dealer. If so, I'll have them look over the exhaust when they have the car apart.