How to disable RWS?
11-22-2018, 12:14 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
high 50s to mid 70s
Michelin Cup 2
33 psi warm front, 41psi warm rear (pressures would constantly be off)
I just switched out the stock wheels for HRE R101 LW, same tires. 32 front 39 rear. I've driven around quite a bit and the pressures have stayed all consistent unlike before.
This definitely fixed the problem. I've also noticed a small change in the steering feel. The car feels like a scalpel now.
I must say that even when brand new, with the stock P Zero the car always felt a bit squirmy. I constantly had issues with all 4 pressures to symmetrically match. They would constantly be mismatched by 1-4psi. This leads me to believe there was something up with the stock wheels.
Stock alignment.
KPH not MPH
Michelin Cup 2
33 psi warm front, 41psi warm rear (pressures would constantly be off)
I just switched out the stock wheels for HRE R101 LW, same tires. 32 front 39 rear. I've driven around quite a bit and the pressures have stayed all consistent unlike before.
This definitely fixed the problem. I've also noticed a small change in the steering feel. The car feels like a scalpel now.
I must say that even when brand new, with the stock P Zero the car always felt a bit squirmy. I constantly had issues with all 4 pressures to symmetrically match. They would constantly be mismatched by 1-4psi. This leads me to believe there was something up with the stock wheels.
Stock alignment.
KPH not MPH
11-22-2018, 03:37 PM
#32
A couple things, that I noted above in your response.
1) If you are going to run 32 front, back your rears down by another 1 PSI. Go to 38 on the rears. Look for additional improvement. Maybe do another 1 PSI reduction, and re-test. So try 32/38 or 32/37.
2) I like your Walter Rohrl quote!
This "scalpel" feeling has alot to your switch to Cup 2s.
3) Just remember the Cup 2s will decrease your wet and cold performance. But increase your dry traction. That's the trade off.
1) If you are going to run 32 front, back your rears down by another 1 PSI. Go to 38 on the rears. Look for additional improvement. Maybe do another 1 PSI reduction, and re-test. So try 32/38 or 32/37.
2) I like your Walter Rohrl quote!
This "scalpel" feeling has alot to your switch to Cup 2s.3) Just remember the Cup 2s will decrease your wet and cold performance. But increase your dry traction. That's the trade off.
Cup 2's get slippery above 36 on the track, most guys shoot for around 32front,34 rear HOT tire pressure, and go out much lower. 2psi split between the front and rear will be a much better split for aggressive driving and will make the rear more controllable. Porsche's "comfort pressure"at partial load is 29f/31r cold at 68deg, if that makes you more comfortable lowering pressures
Thanks guys, I didn't know this.
What difference is made when comfort/full load are checked vs unchecked?
11-22-2018, 03:44 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by Psorcery
Thanks guys, I didn't know this.
What difference is made when comfort/full load are checked vs unchecked?
What difference is made when comfort/full load are checked vs unchecked?
11-22-2018, 05:28 PM
#35
Ahh, got ya!
I have also noticed the car handles undulations in the road much better now. Especially through turns!
It totally feels like it's on rails now.
Happy Thanksgiving to you all!
I have also noticed the car handles undulations in the road much better now. Especially through turns!
It totally feels like it's on rails now.
Happy Thanksgiving to you all!
11-22-2018, 09:23 PM
#36
Great fan of RAS - basically (in effect) it gives you an an extra 1.5 degrees of slip angle and given tires commonly have ~ 4 degrees of slip..............the advantage is indeed significant.
I have heard of two reliable reports that RAS can "over heat" - one is from a serious GT3 racer (on this forum) and the other is from a new race mechanic I use. The latter attributed it to using slicks thereby overloading the RAS rams due the very, high loading slicks generate. I iterate this is in state/national level competition.
Basically very robust and effective and certainly not an issue with MPSC2 N1 at their best.
I have heard of two reliable reports that RAS can "over heat" - one is from a serious GT3 racer (on this forum) and the other is from a new race mechanic I use. The latter attributed it to using slicks thereby overloading the RAS rams due the very, high loading slicks generate. I iterate this is in state/national level competition.
Basically very robust and effective and certainly not an issue with MPSC2 N1 at their best.
11-24-2018, 09:02 PM
#37
Platinum Dealership
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I love the RAS and SPASM and PDCC on my GTS in all situations especially when I disable ESC completely in the wet. makes for fun little chris harris moments and is more correctable
11-24-2018, 10:28 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Psorcery
Ahh, got ya!
I have also noticed the car handles undulations in the road much better now. Especially through turns!
It totally feels like it's on rails now.
Happy Thanksgiving to you all!
I have also noticed the car handles undulations in the road much better now. Especially through turns!
It totally feels like it's on rails now.
Happy Thanksgiving to you all!
11-25-2018, 04:22 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
For street use, after numerous adjustments, I'm now running 60-70°F cold tire pressures of 30/35 psi front /rear. Dealer had them set up at 32/38. And I switched my system tire pressure to "Comfort Setting", to avoid low pressure alarms.
07-15-2021, 01:05 PM
#40
For whatever reason I find myself with a street car trying to make a race car... again. Anyway, is there anyone out there that has successfully turned off rear wheel steering on a 2016 GT3 RS? And, if so, there are two folks here that would really like to know how you did that and if you would be willing to share. Here's what I know (have heard), you can buy a link to replace the RWS motor but the folks that sell them don't know how that affects any alarms that may be thrown if you just unplug and dump the motor. I have heard that it can be turned off in PVIS - anyone? If I go with the replace link, has anyone made a motor simulator, may be just a high power resistor? Is there any feedback from the motor to the computer? In other words, is the system closed loop or open loop?
STREET GUYS THAT LOVE RWS PLEASE DON'T POLUTE THIS THREAD - APPRECIATED.
STREET GUYS THAT LOVE RWS PLEASE DON'T POLUTE THIS THREAD - APPRECIATED.
07-15-2021, 06:52 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
Does anybody have info on how to disable the rear steer system?
It's really beginning to bother me. Maybe I'm not as good a driver in this car but during mid corner correction the rear end of the car is unstable and tail happy. Sometimes I when I correct I have to recorrect again and sometimes again. This doesnt make for a fun and stable ride. I realize this is all in my initial steering input but I dont want to change my driving habits because of this feature.
At lower speeds its brilliant but at high speeds (triple digit) its sketchy. Especially through quick turns.
Wheres the fuse if theres even one?
BGB, you still posting here?
It's really beginning to bother me. Maybe I'm not as good a driver in this car but during mid corner correction the rear end of the car is unstable and tail happy. Sometimes I when I correct I have to recorrect again and sometimes again. This doesnt make for a fun and stable ride. I realize this is all in my initial steering input but I dont want to change my driving habits because of this feature.
At lower speeds its brilliant but at high speeds (triple digit) its sketchy. Especially through quick turns.
Wheres the fuse if theres even one?
BGB, you still posting here?
07-15-2021, 07:12 PM
#42
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Worth noting, this is a years-old thread and the OP has been banned from rennlist.
07-15-2021, 10:17 PM
#44
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
When braking at speed while steering wheel is turned, the RWS will attempt to go to neutral and this feels like steering wheel shake. Many vids of drivers on track with shuddering steering wheels and this is not them driving over the curb since they took the corner tight. It’s the rws trying to neutralize.
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PLAY_HRD (06-07-2022)
07-16-2021, 12:32 AM
#45
Rennlist Member
I have RAS. I’m happy I have this feature because I know it’s purpose and function. But I have to admit that it’s taking me time getting used to how sensitive the steering is. I know it’s a good thing, that the car changes lanes effortlessly, would make lap times better on curvy tracks, and the other benefits even in daily driving. But for me, I notice that if I take my eyes off the road for even the slightest moment, and if my hands aren’t rock steady in holding the wheel, that I will easily drift to one side a bit. So all that really means to me is that I have room to improve as a driver despite the fact I’ve been driving a long long time. In my Lexus, I can literally turn my head around to make a funny face to my kids in the back seat and not drift a millimeter off course (not that that’s safe or that I do that frequently).