Sick and tired of the brake squeaking on 991.2 gts
#16
Go to a track or private road course, take it up to 90+ MPH, and brake hard, several times, all the way down to 10-20 MPH. That will shut the brakes up. No need to come to a complete stop, but if you do, don't put the parking brake on immediately afterward.
60-70 MPH will not do it. You are dealing with an exponent of at least speed^2.
Or, watch the Porsche video on repeat until you've convinced yourself (and the MILF) that the squealing and squeaking is "normal." Whatever's easier.
60-70 MPH will not do it. You are dealing with an exponent of at least speed^2.
Or, watch the Porsche video on repeat until you've convinced yourself (and the MILF) that the squealing and squeaking is "normal." Whatever's easier.
#18
What about creaking? Never sure whether it's suspension or brakes. Happens at low speeds when braking at lights etc but especially when pulling out of parallel parking from cold! OPC says may go when brakes bedded in but not so far after 6K miles. Suspect may be a consequence of not bedding brakes in properly from new, ie hammering them from the word go!
#20
My PCCBs on my 991.2GTS have never squeaked. The PCCBs on my previous 991.1S also never squeaked. The steels on my first 991.1S occasionally squeaked until I braked hard (got rid of squeak).
#21
PCCB's do NOT squeak. They are ceramic and not Iron/Steel. Anyone hearing brake squeal on PCCB is imagining it.
No brake dust, no squealing, "lifetime" of no maintenance, better performance...Now you know why they cost so much
As far as OP, many have had to do a couple of hard stops from high speeds to seat the brakes.
De glazing, or making the pad/rotor more level or something like that. Try it.
No brake dust, no squealing, "lifetime" of no maintenance, better performance...Now you know why they cost so much
As far as OP, many have had to do a couple of hard stops from high speeds to seat the brakes.
De glazing, or making the pad/rotor more level or something like that. Try it.
#23
None of this has anything to do with GTS or non-GTS. Carbon ceramics or steel brakes.
If you take the time to go through the bedding process with your brakes, the squeaking will dramatically drop or go away entirely.
I have a 2018 C4 GTS and went through the process on a long country road the very first day I bought the car. I do it with all of my
cars, including my Jeep.
Instructions (just a general guide - not written by me)
If you take the time to go through the bedding process with your brakes, the squeaking will dramatically drop or go away entirely.
I have a 2018 C4 GTS and went through the process on a long country road the very first day I bought the car. I do it with all of my
cars, including my Jeep.
Instructions (just a general guide - not written by me)
- From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
- Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph, then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely, with your foot on the brake pedal, pad material will be imprinted onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
- The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
- After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a few minutes, using the brakes as little as possible to allow them to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
The following users liked this post:
Cityfisher (04-30-2024)
#24
Like LexVan, I've had four 911s and have never had problems with brakes squealing except for a rare chirp/groan when backing out of the driveway after a wash. So that has me guessing that there is something we are doing differently.
I'd guess that the most likely culprit is how the car is washed (and how it affects the wheels specifically). For example, is there any way waxes or wheel-cleaning chemicals are getting on the rotors (like using a drive-through car wash or even a hand spray at home)? Also, once I've washed the car but before I finished cleaning the wheels, I take it on a short few-block run to sling remaining water out of the rotors and warm/dry them up a bit to prevent rust from forming and to get any crap flung out onto the barrels before I clean them. Then I'll clean the wheels and the barrels using sprays that I apply directly to the rag to make sure no spray gets on the rotors.
And as others have said, also try rebedding the brakes. Now that they are squealing I imagine it is harder to get rid of the problem than if it never occurred in the first place. If that doesn't work, the you might have to go to new pads and rotors, or if they aren't significantly worn, burnishing the pad and rotor surfaces with sandpaper to remove old pad material build-up and glaze may work too... but that's a lot of work many aren't anxious to do. If you do this, then you certainly need to redo the bedding procedure described by jnkirk1974 in the post above to get the initial pad material transfer done properly again.
I'd guess that the most likely culprit is how the car is washed (and how it affects the wheels specifically). For example, is there any way waxes or wheel-cleaning chemicals are getting on the rotors (like using a drive-through car wash or even a hand spray at home)? Also, once I've washed the car but before I finished cleaning the wheels, I take it on a short few-block run to sling remaining water out of the rotors and warm/dry them up a bit to prevent rust from forming and to get any crap flung out onto the barrels before I clean them. Then I'll clean the wheels and the barrels using sprays that I apply directly to the rag to make sure no spray gets on the rotors.
And as others have said, also try rebedding the brakes. Now that they are squealing I imagine it is harder to get rid of the problem than if it never occurred in the first place. If that doesn't work, the you might have to go to new pads and rotors, or if they aren't significantly worn, burnishing the pad and rotor surfaces with sandpaper to remove old pad material build-up and glaze may work too... but that's a lot of work many aren't anxious to do. If you do this, then you certainly need to redo the bedding procedure described by jnkirk1974 in the post above to get the initial pad material transfer done properly again.
#26
None of this has anything to do with GTS or non-GTS. Carbon ceramics or steel brakes.
If you take the time to go through the bedding process with your brakes, the squeaking will dramatically drop or go away entirely.
I have a 2018 C4 GTS and went through the process on a long country road the very first day I bought the car. I do it with all of my
cars, including my Jeep.
Instructions (just a general guide - not written by me)
If you take the time to go through the bedding process with your brakes, the squeaking will dramatically drop or go away entirely.
I have a 2018 C4 GTS and went through the process on a long country road the very first day I bought the car. I do it with all of my
cars, including my Jeep.
Instructions (just a general guide - not written by me)
- From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
- Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph, then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely, with your foot on the brake pedal, pad material will be imprinted onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
- The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
- After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a few minutes, using the brakes as little as possible to allow them to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
#27
My 997 was that way and the same for my dot 2. Comes with the territory. Porsche even did a video explaining it.
https://youtu.be/fUNHb9O52WQ
https://youtu.be/fUNHb9O52WQ
great video
#28
#29
#30