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LOL, Yes I know what coilovers are. Tractive are a full active coilover. They react 17x times faster than a GT3-RS. It is the only shock on the market that can adjust mid stroke. Cutting edge stuff.
70/120 would be a massive improvement on a Base. 45/120 is GT3. I am thinking 80/150. I drive pretty hard, and I like to track.
my bad. I think I read your post to quickly. Tracitive sounds interesting. I have a buddy that just got Koni 4 way adjustable. Way over my head.
Needs to go a touch lower...better center of gravity....still way to much gap in wheels to fenders. I have Sport PASM on my GTS and there’s just a little gap.
What are your corner balance weight now? What did you se the rake at?
Tractives are the holy grail of active suspension setups. I’ve been on the fence Ohlins vs Tractive for a long time. Sounds like you choose your spring rates w the Tractive setup and you get a map for your DSC Co troller for your specific setup?
Needs to go a touch lower...better center of gravity....still way to much gap in wheels to fenders. I have Sport PASM on my GTS and there’s just a little gap.
What are your corner balance weight now? What did you se the rake at?
we’ll see how it settles after PBIR. I’ll have plenty of time to play with them and adjust before Sebring in October. Don’t remember exact cross weights, but cross is 50.3%. For the rake, Front is 10mm lower than rear which is the same as original rake. Ill
post exact measurements after the weekend. I have it on paper but was dealing with a leak in my house. Just what I need before a track weekend.
In one word: amazing. Car feels a lot more stable. Handles better. Driveable on be road. Sebring will be a good test in October. Only had one day at PBIR because I had a leak at my home and had to leave early. I beat my best lap times though (in rain and when the track dried).
In one word: amazing. Car feels a lot more stable. Handles better. Driveable on be road. Sebring will be a good test in October. Only had one day at PBIR because I had a leak at my home and had to leave early. I beat my best lap times though (in rain and when the track dried).
Great, look forward to hearing more. The Ohlins kit is on my shortlist.
First: Thanks to everyone who responded with answers to my question and to those who posted about their experiences with Ohlins elsewhere on this and other forums. I had bad water intrusion in my home roughly 3 months ago, had to rent an airbnb for me and my fiance and spend a ridiculous amount of money out of pocket because my carrier is (wrongly) denying my claim. I managed to get 1 day on the Ohlins at PBIR and 2 days at Sebring. I agree that changing the settings by one click makes a difference. I was at 13 front and 12 rear from full stiff and the car was better around PBIR than stock and still very very very good on the streets. Stiffer yes, but not in a bad way. I was faster and more consistent around PBIR and my times dropped. Could be because of suspension or could be because I’m getting better with age. Lol. Car was still compliant and completely fantastic on the street, in my opinion. At Sebring, I increased the stiffness 2 clicks to 11 front and 10 rear from full stiff. In my opinion, this is too stiff for the street. Was defintily ok for Sebring. Sebring is a bumpy track. I’m questioning going stiffer for Sebring, but I’m definitely going to try stiffer. I want the setting soft enough to absorb the bumps, but still feel that I have too much lean. I don’t want to beat up the car or the suspension to badly, but think it can handle it and want to experiment. I was not faster at Sebring than my car stock, but i wasn’t really trying either. Was more of a learning session really trying to get a feel for the car. I also plan on doing sway bars soon, just don’t know exactly what yet. Either way, I love the setup. Perfect for Road & Track, pun intended. Happy to answer specific questions, but in short, car definitely feels more planted and higher speeds feel slower in my opinion since car seems more capable.
Congrats, but the most important question is, What spring rates?
The stock spring rates on a base are an absolute joke. I couldn't believe the numbers when I saw them the other day.
24/48 for BASE.
33/108 For my 991.2 GTS
45/120 FOR GT3.
I am thinking of doing tractive active coilovers. I already have the DSC module. I am considering 80/150 for spring rates. Once again, I am not surprised that adding springs would transform a Base, as 24/48 is ridiculously non existent.
Old thread but I know you're still active here so I thought I'd ask. Experiencing a very, very floaty ride in my 991.1 C2 base. It's a non- PASM car, lowered on Techart springs with factory wheels (no spacers) and 44K miles. The car does not feel planted at all. The lowering springs were installed about 10K miles ago, with the shop electing to perform an alignment immediately after spring install rather than waiting for them to settle. I didn't drive the car in a spirited manner since, and just recently went out and stretched its legs.
If there's the slightest wind outside, the car will be pushed and feel very floaty... the best way to describe it is as if I'm experiencing some lift, rather than feeling stuck to the ground. It's not very stable through corners and when driving in a straight line on the highway, the steering wheel has some play side to side without the car responding.
Here is the alignment I had performed today. Haven't got a chance to really test it out but there is still play in the steering wheel at highway speeds (2-3"?), seems to drift to the right, and still doesn't really feel like a 911 should, in my opinion. Take that with a grain of salt, however, as I'm not incredibly knowledgable in the suspension realm.
Spring rates are referring to the spring, correct? So my TechArt springs should have resulted in a firmer ride as opposed to the stock base setup which I believe you're referencing as soft?
Old thread but I know you're still active here so I thought I'd ask. Experiencing a very, very floaty ride in my 991.1 C2 base. It's a non- PASM car, lowered on Techart springs with factory wheels (no spacers) and 44K miles. The car does not feel planted at all. The lowering springs were installed about 10K miles ago, with the shop electing to perform an alignment immediately after spring install rather than waiting for them to settle. I didn't drive the car in a spirited manner since, and just recently went out and stretched its legs.
If there's the slightest wind outside, the car will be pushed and feel very floaty... the best way to describe it is as if I'm experiencing some lift, rather than feeling stuck to the ground. It's not very stable through corners and when driving in a straight line on the highway, the steering wheel has some play side to side without the car responding.
Here is the alignment I had performed today. Haven't got a chance to really test it out but there is still play in the steering wheel at highway speeds (2-3"?), seems to drift to the right, and still doesn't really feel like a 911 should, in my opinion. Take that with a grain of salt, however, as I'm not incredibly knowledgable in the suspension realm.
Spring rates are referring to the spring, correct? So my TechArt springs should have resulted in a firmer ride as opposed to the stock base setup which I believe you're referencing as soft?
Spring rate is the stiffness of the springs. Its written on the spring itself. Usually 3 numbers. Length 170 or 200 are common, diameter 60 is common and stiffness anywhere feom super soft 24 to cup car stiff 260.
When i first got tractive i went 75 front and 150 rear. It was epic on the street. Massive improvement.
But when i added anti-Sway bars, the front proved to be too soft. So now I am at 100 fr and 150 reat. Its epic at the track, but i now want more and will move to 120 front and 170 rear. It will be quite firm on the street, but i am fine with that.
Your neg camber is very weak. I run -4.4 up front.
The car never felt superior to others until i was at -4.0.
I’d be maxing out your front stock neg camber first. You’d want at least -2.5 and if that isn't possible with stock top hats, get some camber plates and control arms.
Spring rate is the stiffness of the springs. Its written on the spring itself. Usually 3 numbers. Length 170 or 200 are common, diameter 60 is common and stiffness anywhere feom super soft 24 to cup car stiff 260.
When i first got tractive i went 75 front and 150 rear. It was wpic on the street. Massive improvement.
But when i added anti-Sway bars, the front proved to be too soft. So now I am at 100 fr and 150 reat. Its wpic at the track, but i now want more and will move to 120 front and 170 rear. It will be quite firm on the street, but i am fine with that.
Your neg camber is very weak. I run -4.4 up front.
The car never felt superior to others until i was at -4.0.
I’d be maxing out your front stock neg camber first. You’d want at least -2.5 and if that isn't possible with stock top hats, get some camber plates and control arms.
Also tyres are everything.
your whole response to the post is completely wrong. Your post is directed to someone who is tracking a car. It does not appear from the guy to whom you responded that he tracks his car. If the guy to whom you responded does not track his car, all of the Alignment settings that you recommend would be completely misplaced and erroneous. That much camber on a street car? Really?
Old thread but I know you're still active here so I thought I'd ask. Experiencing a very, very floaty ride in my 991.1 C2 base. It's a non- PASM car, lowered on Techart springs with factory wheels (no spacers) and 44K miles. The car does not feel planted at all. The lowering springs were installed about 10K miles ago, with the shop electing to perform an alignment immediately after spring install rather than waiting for them to settle. I didn't drive the car in a spirited manner since, and just recently went out and stretched its legs.
If there's the slightest wind outside, the car will be pushed and feel very floaty... the best way to describe it is as if I'm experiencing some lift, rather than feeling stuck to the ground. It's not very stable through corners and when driving in a straight line on the highway, the steering wheel has some play side to side without the car responding.
Here is the alignment I had performed today. Haven't got a chance to really test it out but there is still play in the steering wheel at highway speeds (2-3"?), seems to drift to the right, and still doesn't really feel like a 911 should, in my opinion. Take that with a grain of salt, however, as I'm not incredibly knowledgable in the suspension realm.
Spring rates are referring to the spring, correct? So my TechArt springs should have resulted in a firmer ride as opposed to the stock base setup which I believe you're referencing as soft?
you should not have that much play in your steering wheel. I would recommend checking the inner and outer tie rods for excessive play if that has not already been done. I would’ve dialed in slightly less toe-in in the front and rear. My opinion, the first problem is the Tech arts Springs. They are progressive rate springs and are, initially, softer in the first little bit of travel. They may make the car look better, but lowering the car on OEM shocks means that you have reduced shock travel and its ability to absorb or dampen bumps and perform as intended. That is why I switch to a full coil over setup before even trying lowering springs (since my 991 was my track car).
your whole response to the post is completely wrong. Your post is directed to someone who is tracking a car. It does not appear from the guy to whom you responded that he tracks his car. If the guy to whom you responded does not track his car, all of the Alignment settings that you recommend would be completely misplaced and erroneous. That much camber on a street car? Really?
How is telling him of my journey completely wrong?
I was merely showing levels. He can choise where he jumps in. If i merely said -2.5 he may of thought that was a lot, but it is not on a Porsche.
-2.5 is fine for street. That was my street setting. Whilst i am now at -4.4, i daily my car.
its a Porsche not s Camry. You want it to turn, and a Porsche owner, unless you drive it like. A camry needs a lot more neg camber. Its not neg camber that chews tyres, its toe!
The stock setup doesn’t allow for enough neg camber to perform well on the street. The factory settings are set for some 75 year old that drives it to the shop once a year and sells it 4 years later with 1,000 miles on it.
I have put 30,000 miles on mine from brand new.
I see from other post he runs conti’s. See above at my “Wrong” post that says tyres are everything.
All lowering springs are bad, tyres are bad and setting are weak. Clearly I’m not wrong, as his car drives like a floaty Camry and mine takes down GT2-RS’s at the track.
08-31-2018, 04:25 AM
