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Vektor Performance - Performance Headers

Old 08-14-2018, 02:01 PM
  #31  
Needsdecaf
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Originally Posted by PTS-BRG View Post
Im wondering if Porsche designed the header to allow heat to escape or if keeping the heat contained within the pipe is desirable. Dont know enough about the design of headers but, apart from being white, do we want to contain heat or let it dissipate naturally?
Originally Posted by spdracerut View Post
When it comes to turbocharged cars, heat = energy. The more heat you keep in before the turbo, the more energy there is to spool the turbos faster. If you dyno a car with 'cold' headers vs. the same car that already has the headers warmed up, the dyno with the pre-warmed up headers will show faster spool. This is because the cold headers (relatively speaking) will suck heat/energy out of the exhaust before it can get to the turbos.

Here's good info on using just a turbo blanket. Same idea, keeps the heat in the turbo. Also, look at every motorsports turbo engine (F1, Le Mans, WRC, etc); they all have serious insulation on the headers.

https://motoiq.com/nerd-o-scope-keep...urbo-blankets/
Yup.

Just look at some modern day designs. Manufacturers are trying to get the turbo as close to the block as possible. Some manufacturers (Volvo, I think VW, and possibly others, have actually made the exhaust manifold part of the block in order to retain as much heat energy into the turbo as possible. Here's a good article, with a link to a video by Engineering Explained:

https://jalopnik.com/automakers-are-...lds-1796305029

So no, keeping exhaust into the turbo isn't a bad thing.
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Old 08-14-2018, 02:29 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by PTS-BRG View Post
Im wondering if Porsche designed the header to allow heat to escape or if keeping the heat contained within the pipe is desirable. Dont know enough about the design of headers but, apart from being white, do we want to contain heat or let it dissipate naturally?
The stock maniford design is double walled to keep heat in ( also good for emissions, something porsche is interested in)
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Old 08-15-2018, 12:17 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 4 Point 0 View Post
Do you have any pics of the White ceramic coated ones as yet?
Installed pic




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Old 08-15-2018, 03:25 AM
  #34  
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Ooohh Pretty. Thanks, they look great. Will go very well with Akra Cats. : ) I gotta get me some of these. Definitely by COBB Stage 2.
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Old 08-18-2018, 10:07 AM
  #35  
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Put together some development pics for your viewing pleasure...

Vektor Header Development
.
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Last edited by VektorPerformance; 08-19-2018 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 08-19-2018, 11:49 AM
  #36  
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^ Link fixed
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Old 09-06-2018, 05:21 PM
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Old 09-11-2018, 11:53 PM
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Gonna follow this thread...
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Old 09-13-2018, 04:00 PM
  #39  
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We’ve been getting questions on our headers in regard to what’s going on inside of them: Are they backpurged? What kind of bends? And so on so I wanted to share some details of the processes we use here.

We backpurge all the welds. This removes oxygen from the inside of the assembly and provides contamination free, non-oxidized welds.

We do not weld on bends, ever. Welding on a bend is a poor practice as it applies the welding heat (embrittlement) to a section of tube that is thinned compared to the tube wall thickness when it is straight. It also makes for poor fit-up as you’re matching two parts that are not perfectly round; resulting in inconsistent weld strength and most definitely an inner surface that is not as smooth as it could be.

We do not miter weld joints. Mitered weld joints are going to have significant turbulence over a smooth bend.

Our bends are all mandrel formed (free flowing) bends providing the maximum flow potential over pinch bends. We also use the largest bends we can per the allowance of the design, to further optimize flow potential (the closer to straight the better the flow). This is a bit more costly than off-the-shelf bends.

All welds are dressed on the inside. A proper weld will have some evidence of penetration on this inside. If it doesn’t, you have an incomplete weld and potential for a failure. Any penetration or imperfections on the insides of the tubes or tube/flange interface are ground down smooth. Not only does this reduce turbulence, it also removed potential hot spots in the assembly that can accelerate fatigue.

Here you can see a collector pre-finishing. Evidence of weld and packpurging. Good fit-up, but off to finishing.

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Old 09-13-2018, 04:07 PM
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This was tough to capture as the focus was all over the place, but you can see how high points have been brought down at the tube-to-collector interface.


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Old 09-13-2018, 04:08 PM
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Here you can see the head-to-flange areas. Note the 3D machining on the flange. The milling tool path lines are so small that you can’t really feel them.



Let me know if you have any questions.
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Old 09-14-2018, 12:13 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by VektorPerformance View Post
This was tough to capture as the focus was all over the place, but you can see how high points have been brought down at the tube-to-collector interface.


That's actually a very cool shot. It shows why the Vektor headers are superior. The want is real. : )
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Old 09-14-2018, 12:04 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 4 Point 0 View Post
That's actually a very cool shot. It shows why the Vektor headers are superior. The want is real. : )
Thanks! We have a couple hours of finishing (and cleaning) time into each set, using 4 different tools to get the insides blended. It's a painstaking process of grind/look/grind/look/grind/look until you get it where it needs to be. Some will say splitting hairs, but I say why not make it as close to perfect as possible, which is our mission statement "Excellence Through the Pursuit of Perfection"
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Old 09-30-2018, 01:39 AM
  #44  
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Love how easy these are to swap, I have done header upgrade previously and it was a Pita.

on my list.

whats the price with ceramic coating. And can an appropriate cobb tune be included?
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Old 09-30-2018, 10:41 PM
  #45  
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PM'd you back.

The toughest part is the driver side stud. Once you remove the turbine heat shield, it's just a matter of finding you way to it (the stud). It's one of those feel your way to it, or look from the bottom as you reach the tools to it from the top-side. Having a good tool selection will come in handy as well. Double nut method or stud puller for stud removal. I manage to do the swap myself in a couple of hours. The first shop that tested them for us swapped them out HOT off the dyno in 30 minutes! They do work on these cars a lot more than me though.. and have an enormous tool selection
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