Yesterday I removed the center-lock wheels for the first time on my new 991.2 GTS coupe and reinstalled them today. Two things that I was questioning:

1. When removing the really small hub caps I noticed the locking pin was not engaged on one wheel? Came from the factory that way … as I assume the dealer had no reason to touch the center-locks during deliver. Wouldn’t locking pin engage if the center-lock nut started rotating?

2. Got to use my new Precision Instruments torque wrench & breaker bar for the first time … per the instruction in the 911 Owner’s Manual. After the tightening & 1/4 turn back-off, then re-tightening … 3 out of 4 locking pin were not engaged. The 911 Owner’s Manual indicates checking that the locking-pin has automatically engaged. If not, use your auxiliary tool (left … right) unit it engages. They all engaged with a small loosening rotation? (maybe a 1/32 rotation or less rotation). That would be something less than full torque (443 ftlbs on my GTS)? Assume that’s OK?

I have also been having fun personalizing my new 991.2 GTS coupe for the last 3 months and I am running out of ideals.
Here is a short list of updates:

1. Added Guards Red pin-stripe to the outer lips of wheels like the GT3 option. Adds a visual separation between back tires and black center-lock wheels.
2. Added outside ZunSport grills to protect the radiators.
3. Added XPEL ULTIMATE, Paint Protection Film protection: front bumper, full hood, full fenders, mirrors and headlights + rocker panels + front & behind the rear wheels + door handles + windshield pillars.
4. Added Personalized Plates … B4 2 OLD … “Before to old to enjoy a Porsche!”
5. Reduce the verbose “911 Carrara GTS” on rear to just “GTS”
6. Removed the red pin-stripes & painted the black center-Lock wheels a “Black Gold” color. For better balance visually.

JR1946


Locking pin engaged

 

After you back it out 1/4 turn, and retorque, just push pin in until it engages and pops out flush. I don't think you should loosen it 1/32 from full torque.

 

 

You're torquing them with the wheel off the ground, correct?

 

First time I put mine back on I did the same thing but there is no need to loosen. The little tool that is used to pop off the center cap has a hex tool on the opposite end, inset that into the locking pin and wiggle it until the pin pops out.

Edit: You guys are fast, same as above..

 

Thanks, you are correct ... so this morning I torqued all the center-locks to 443 ftlbs again. I had miss read the owners manual on how to get the locking pins to pop out ... it said to use the auxiliary tool ... turned slightly left and right!

Thanks again, I can take drive today without worrying about the center-lock wheels.

 

Don’t loosen Center lock to engage locking...you will no longer have correct torque. Just grab a 1/2” socket drive extension and insert it in the lock with a slightly wiggle and ithe lock will,pop,out.

 

Thanks ... I now understand how to get the locking pin to pop out. I had just miss read the owners manual the first time around.

When I raised the car up again to torque the center-locks back to the correct 443 ftlbs, I found the auxiliary tool worked as the other guys suggested.

Thanks