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You can sand them out - its just ABS plastic. Get some micro fine wet sandpapers...its not very hard to do. Start with 400 grit, and work up to about 1500 grit or so. Will look like new at the final grit. I do this sort of thing all the time, works on front spoiler lips, motorcycle parts - anywhere there is molded color-injected ABS plastic. After the final sand, apply some plastic polish if you want to gloss it up a bit. Cost you $ 9 for a sandpaper pack at Amazon and if it takes more than 30 minutes you're slacking.
I really like this idea drcollie, but how do you avoid making the area you sand look *too* smooth? Don't these plastic parts typically have a rough texture to them? 1500 grit sandpaper will leave a very smooth, flat surface. I am not challenging you, just looking for guidance, because I'm really keen to be able to do this. Thank you.
IMHO we should all accept a difference between wear and damage. Wear happens when you use a car with care and can be perfectly attractive. The shiny patina of a steering wheel, a few stone chips in the front, etc. My early 911 has great patina and I wouldn't want it to look new, because it's not a new car. Damage is when you curb the rims or tear the seat bolster or get door dings and scratches. Door sill scuffs are in the category of patina. Enjoy driving your car and accept that the scuffs aren't damage, but indicators of your enjoyment of your car.
^ Agree with this. While moving the seat back has really reduced the scuffs, it doesn't do anything for the passenger side (you're gonna get what you're gonna get) or the odd "miss" or service tech. My view has always been: Don't mind patina in line with the car's miles, but hate the look of careless ownership.
I learned the secret of protecting those years ago. Works like a champ on Vettes, 981's & 911's. You need to learn how to levitate while entering and exiting the vehicle. I have no scuffs on my car.
OK, on a more serious note, I really have never had the scuff issue. I'm 6'1'', 185#, and old, but have a technique I've always used that I don't even think about. I do use the "easy exit" function to make it a little easier. I've now probably jinxed myself, as it it certainly gets no easier as you get older.
I learned the secret of protecting those years ago. Works like a champ on Vettes, 981's & 911's. You need to learn how to levitate while entering and exiting the vehicle. I have no scuffs on my car.
OK, on a more serious note, I really have never had the scuff issue. I'm 6'1'', 185#, and old, but have a technique I've always used that I don't even think about. I do use the "easy exit" function to make it a little easier. I've now probably jinxed myself, as it it certainly gets no easier as you get older.
I'm with you Gordon. I didn't do the scuffing. A buddy of mine wanted to sit in it and dumba** me said 'OK' . First thing he did was drag his feet across the sill. He was given careful instructions on how to get out. I should have started with detailed instructions before he got in....
What I do is back up to the open door and put my a** on the seat while protecting the seat back bolster with my hand and arm. Once on the seat I pivot around and lift my feet while doing so. While pivoting I use my hands to somewhat lift myself and take some weight off the seat so the pivot maneuver does not cause wear. It's really pretty simple, works well, and the technique also avoids seatback bolster wear.
I don't mind dirt, dust, spots but I'm **** about scuffs and swirl marks. I'm just weird like that. I'm 5'7" old-ish and flexible, I don't have a scuff issue. I just put blue painters tape on before I go to the dealer or my good buddy who is 320lb gets in. If he gripes about it I tell him to shut up . The dealer gets the point the blue really stands out.
04-06-2018, 11:01 AM
. First thing he did was drag his feet across the sill. He was given careful instructions on how to get out. I should have started with detailed instructions before he got in....
. The dealer gets the point the blue really stands out.
