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I’m trying to confirm the belt length I need. I assume that since I have PDCC I need the longer, two sided belt. But the description above confused me a bit. Do I have to ALSO have a -20mm sport option? (The PASM I have is -10mm)
Easy enough to confirm. Grab a flashlight and look at the v-groove pulley on the coolant pump. If you see v-grooves on the exterior surface of the belt, as they are on my GTS, I believe you need the longer belt.
And if you see a belt with a smooth exterior, as on my 991.1 GTS (not equipped with PDCC), you need the shorter, single-sided belt. I believe that the double sided belt is only needed to drive the PDCC pump.
Last edited by Southbranch; 11-14-2023 at 02:00 AM.
I'm putting together a maintenance part order for my incoming pre-owned BMW 640i GT, so figured I should grab some 911 items that are due in 2024.
Has anyone tried a Gates or Bando branded serpentine belt? I'm really tempted as a) they're both super cheap ($16 CAD for the Bando one - could splurge on the Gates at $32 CAD) and b) I'm ordering from Rockauto- they don't have the Bosch/OEM belt.
Suppose I could just overpay my local dealer for the OEM part like I did the last time I replaced the belt - being in Canada, there are not a lot of alternatives.
Who is the supplier to Porsche of the Belt Tensioner Hydraulic shock ?
I am told it is INA, who sells it for around $30 versus the Porsche part at around $200.
I do not want to sacrifice quality and willing to pay for the Porsche part. But if the INA part is EXACLY the same, I would install it.
Anyone actually know?
My 2012 911 (991.1) Carrera is at 70K miles.
As preventive maintenance, when I replace the belt it seems prudent to replace :
1. The Hydraulic Tensioner
2. Tensioner arm roller
What about the Tensioner Lever and Idler Pulley ? Do they fail often at this mileage/age?
I just changed mine last week, it is the same part. At 105k miles it was def worn out, but seemed to still function. Def something that should be changed every 90-100K miles IMO.
Unfortuneately I didn't take a photo, it was covered in grime, but it was in fact the same part as the replacement I received from FCP euro's kit.
FCP euro also has a team that takes actual photos of the parts they display online: here is the OEM offering -
You can clearly see the INA stampings on the part. I think this is why they substitute the INA part for the OEM on their kit.
ALSO NOTE: BOTH Pelican Parts and FCP Euro list this as an OEM manufacturer. - These are two of the most reputable sources for parts online here in the US.
I just changed mine last week, it is the same part. At 105k miles it was def worn out, but seemed to still function. Def something that should be changed every 90-100K miles IMO.
Unfortuneately I didn't take a photo, it was covered in grime, but it was in fact the same part as the replacement I received from FCP euro's kit.
FCP euro also has a team that takes actual photos of the parts they display online: here is the OEM offering -
You can clearly see the INA stampings on the part. I think this is why they substitute the INA part for the OEM on their kit.
ALSO NOTE: BOTH Pelican Parts and FCP Euro list this as an OEM manufacturer. - These are two of the most reputable sources for parts online here in the US.
Thanks. For clarification, in addition to the Hydraulic Tensioner and Roller ( the INA part) did you also need to replace the Tensioner Lever ( about $275) and the Idle Pully ( about $180) ?
These more expensive parts are part of the kits FCP and Pelican offer.
Curious without signs of issues whether people replace these parts as a matter of course at 75K miles and 11 years.
Thanks. For clarification, in addition to the Hydraulic Tensioner and Roller ( the INA part) did you also need to replace the Tensioner Lever ( about $275) and the Idle Pully ( about $180) ?
These more expensive parts are part of the kits FCP and Pelican offer.
Curious without signs of issues whether people replace these parts as a matter of course at 75K miles and 11 years.
I did replace the tensioner lever (since i was in there and water pump) At 100k miles the bearing actually felt pretty good. Also the plastic impeller looked great! But for piece of mind I would rather NOT take a chance and the whole rear end was apart at the time.
The idle pulley I didn't need and will be returning as I have PDCC. The PDCC pump takes the place of the idle pulley. I think as of last week they updated their PDCC kit hence it's drop in price as you don't need that part. But I would have replaced it as preventative at 100k Miles.
I did replace the tensioner lever (since i was in there and water pump) At 100k miles the bearing actually felt pretty good. Also the plastic impeller looked great! But for piece of mind I would rather NOT take a chance and the whole rear end was apart at the time.
The idle pulley I didn't need and will be returning as I have PDCC. The PDCC pump takes the place of the idle pulley. I think as of last week they updated their PDCC kit hence it's drop in price as you don't need that part. But I would have replaced it as preventative at 100k Miles.
That makes good sense ! I am thinking the same about going ahead and replacing the Tensioner Lever, along with the Roller and Hydraulic Tensioner. I might go ahead while in arm deep and replace the Idler Pully as well.
Not sure about the water pump. Seems I have read the 991.1's have fewer issues with water pumps (?). The car is a 2012 with 70K miles.
That makes good sense ! I am thinking the same about going ahead and replacing the Tensioner Lever, along with the Roller and Hydraulic Tensioner. I might go ahead while in arm deep and replace the Idler Pully as well.
Not sure about the water pump. Seems I have read the 991.1's have fewer issues with water pumps (?). The car is a 2012 with 70K miles.
Yah at 105k my stock one seemed fine, the bleeding of the cooling system is a HUGE pain. As long as it's not leaking I would wait until 100k miles. Regardless of condition I would change waterpumps at 100k miles.
But once you have the back end apart def just change every moving part and the belt. ALSO add the thermostat. pretty cheap and easy to do.
Who is the supplier to Porsche of the Belt Tensioner Hydraulic shock ?
I am told it is INA, who sells it for around $30 versus the Porsche part at around $200.
If it is made by INA, check out the INA SCHAEFFLER Aftermarket web site. Key in your Make, Model, and Vehicle. They have a slew of parts with dimensions...
Yah at 105k my stock one seemed fine, the bleeding of the cooling system is a HUGE pain. As long as it's not leaking I would wait until 100k miles. Regardless of condition I would change waterpumps at 100k miles.
But once you have the back end apart def just change every moving part and the belt. ALSO add the thermostat. pretty cheap and easy to do.
Wil I have cooling system bleeding issues with replacing the Thermostat ? Seems like it?
Wil I have cooling system bleeding issues with replacing the Thermostat ? Seems like it?
Def the water pump, you might be able to get away with it on the thermostat depending how quickly you can swap it. I had my 3rd radiator installed and they didn't need to bleed my system.
I recently took my 2017 C2S to the dealership for replacement of the leaking Coolant Pump under the Porsche extended warranty, and asked them to replace the serpentine belt since the car is now over 7 years old and has 37k miles. They charged me "half" of the labor at $200/hour plus $95 for the belt for a total of nearly $800. I am not pleased! Especially since they were already "in there" because they also determined that the leaking Coolant Pump had fouled the vacuum line and the Vacuum Block which is also covered by the Porsche extended warranty, if needed.
11-14-2023, 12:51 AM
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