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Thanks for the thorough write-up. Nicely done and very useful!
It's my understanding that the main reason the car is louder during initial warmup is that the ECU runs the car really rich during the cold start period, using the extra fuel burn to generate more heat to warm up the cats faster so that they become effective sooner. A side effect is that this is it makes the exhaust note a bit louder and deeper. The higher RPMs likely help with this too.
I believe you are correct on this. The valves being closed during the cold start manages the volume which imo is loud enough. I'm not sure I would want valves open on a cold starts.
Another thing to note is that switching to sport or sport plus does not open the valves. I have been told by many manufacturers that the valves open on sport or sport plus which makes the PSE button pointless. This is simply not true, it gets louder while driving because the car downshifts and while at idle it will increase the rpms slightly. It is not a function of the valves.
So just an update on what I plan on doing next, installing the PSE button. After looking at all of the PET diagrams of the vacuum hoses, I am led to believe that the PSE button will work properly without rerouting any vacuum lines. The lines appear to come from the change over valves in the same way and the difference only appears to be how the lines are routed.
If I am correct, then it would be possible to have the PSE button installed/coded and have PSE functionality on the stock exhaust without having to spend any money or time redoing the vacuum lines. IIRC this would save about $500 and decent amount of time. If someone were to like the stock exhaust but wanted to be able to keep valves open, it would only cost about $450 including the dealer programming.
The assumption here is that the PSE button does not require any work to the vacuum lines for it to work.
So just an update on what I plan on doing next, installing the PSE button. After looking at all of the PET diagrams of the vacuum hoses, I am led to believe that the PSE button will work properly without rerouting any vacuum lines. The lines appear to come from the change over valves in the same way and the difference only appears to be how the lines are routed.
If I am correct, then it would be possible to have the PSE button installed/coded and have PSE functionality on the stock exhaust without having to spend any money or time redoing the vacuum lines. IIRC this would save about $500 and decent amount of time. If someone were to like the stock exhaust but wanted to be able to keep valves open, it would only cost about $450 including the dealer programming.
The assumption here is that the PSE button does not require any work to the vacuum lines for it to work.
Your assumptions are correct for an S car. Suncoast has a "kit" that just needs to be programmed by your local dealer. It's not advertised but there have been some threads on this.
Also - I plan on getting the PSE button but for now I programmed the key FOB that came with my exhaust to the garage door opener buttons on my car. Programs just like a garage door opener according to the manual.
Your assumptions are correct for an S car. Suncoast has a "kit" that just needs to be programmed by your local dealer. It's not advertised but there have been some threads on this.
Also - I plan on getting the PSE button but for now I programmed the key FOB that came with my exhaust to the garage door opener buttons on my car. Programs just like a garage door opener according to the manual.
I read some threads that mentioned the compatibility of the vacuum lines on an S car but couldn't find any posts from someone that actually did it. The PSE DIY install threads all have people taking their airbox out and rerouting the lines from way back toward the COV. It seems silly to me for Porsche to use two different line routes when they both function the same way! Even if it were from a hygiene perspective where they wanted everything to look nice and neat, it shouldn't be more than replacing the T fitting from the passenger side with an elbow. I haven't heard of the Suncoast kit before but shouldn't it just be the combo switch since that is all that is really needed? $200 for parts including shipping and $250 for dealer programming.
I read some threads that mentioned the compatibility of the vacuum lines on an S car but couldn't find any posts from someone that actually did it. The PSE DIY install threads all have people taking their airbox out and rerouting the lines from way back toward the COV. It seems silly to me for Porsche to use two different line routes when they both function the same way! Even if it were from a hygiene perspective where they wanted everything to look nice and neat, it shouldn't be more than replacing the T fitting from the passenger side with an elbow. I haven't heard of the Suncoast kit before but shouldn't it just be the combo switch since that is all that is really needed? $200 for parts including shipping and $250 for dealer programming.
It's the switch, the switch plate and a T fitting with a small piece of vacuum tube I believe. A lot of the cost is because you can't just buy the isolated button if I recall.
Installed the new combo box today. It took about 30 minutes start to finish including wiping down the dust on the gasket and hidden between the trim and console. When reinstalling the gasket, line up the little nub with the hole or it won't sit flush.
Just got back from RAC Performance in Dallas, they coded the car to accept the PSE button. The total cost was $65 for 30 minutes of work. Shame on those dealers charging $250!
Everything works and it is verified that anyone who has an S model can just drop in the control button, get it programmed, and have valve control without ever touching the exhaust or removing the bumper.
Just got back from RAC Performance in Dallas, they coded the car to accept the PSE button. The total cost was $65 for 30 minutes of work. Shame on those dealers charging $250!
Everything works and it is verified that anyone who has an S model can just drop in the control button, get it programmed, and have valve control without ever touching the exhaust or removing the bumper.
You do have to make sure the vacuum lines are all set up right on the exhaust.
If it is an S model then the vacuums are already correct. If you look at the diagrams, they both have one line from the COV that splits into two lines leading up to the valves. The difference is purely hygiene on Porsche's part to make everything look tidy for the PSE muffler which has the valves in the middle. As long as it is one line from the COV that splits into two, one going to each valve, then it will work just fine. My plumbing is different that both of the diagrams because I tailored it to fit the Tubi exhaust's valve location and the PSE button works.
10-11-2017, 10:33 AM
