How do you remove lug nuts?
#1
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How do you remove lug nuts?
Do you use a breaker bar or an electric impact driver? What kind of socket do you use? What is the torque for a 15 991 turbo lug nut??
#2
Burning Brakes
I know this varies by personal preference, but I always remove (and tighten) by hand tools. In other words, remove using breaker bar, and final tightening by quality torque wrench. Less wear and tear, although I have no idea by how much. If available, I use a "soft" socket, rather than the usual chrome hardened one. It's easier on the bolt surfaces, especially important for black finished bolts. Spec, I believe, is 130 Nm or 96 foot-pounds - dry; don't use lubricant on them. Instructions for CLs are far different, of course.
https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...WLgaAgBe8P8HAQ
https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...WLgaAgBe8P8HAQ
Last edited by Need4S; 03-19-2017 at 07:17 PM.
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Porsche recommends against impact driver because hubs are aluminium and can crack from repeated use of impact tools.
I use a breaker bar to break them and then impact driver to finish the job. This way there is no hammering on the hubs but still a very quick process.
I use a breaker bar to break them and then impact driver to finish the job. This way there is no hammering on the hubs but still a very quick process.
#4
Burning Brakes
That's a good way. Finish it with a driver. Like one of these, maybe? Milwaukee 2763-22 M18 1/2" Inch Impact Wrench.
#5
Racer
I have a Gorilla wrench and torque wrench to spec at 160 nm / 118 ft#. Soft sockets can either have a soft exterior sleeve or soft interior lining. It's easier to touch up the lug bolts than wheel paint so I use a sleeved socket.
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2014 991 TT
2013 958 CD
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2014 991 TT
2013 958 CD
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Sleeved socket. 160 n-m torque. Hand tools. Breaker bar to loosen. Keyed-lug off first. Twist-in a guide stud from ECS tuning (or the crappier more-expensive Porsche one.) Speed wrench to remove and install. PI y-beam torque wrench.
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Actually, what happened was that the hex-part of the nut would shear off leaving just the collet. Fun, fun getting that out thanks to the Previous Impact-Wrench-Equipped Wheel Gorilla.
More likely they figured that every single Wheel Gorilla in the world was going to use an air-impact wrench no matter what and they were tired of paying warranty claims for wheels damaged from Mr. WG using a hole saw to get the collet out...
PCA DE Tech inspection was still 130 n-m last time I went.
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I suspect that the change came when lug bolts replaced lug nuts. The old-style Aluminum alloy lug nuts would have just shredded at 160nm.
Actually, what happened was that the hex-part of the nut would shear off leaving just the collet. Fun, fun getting that out thanks to the Previous Impact-Wrench-Equipped Wheel Gorilla.
More likely they figured that every single Wheel Gorilla in the world was going to use an air-impact wrench no matter what and they were tired of paying warranty claims for wheels damaged from Mr. WG using a hole saw to get the collet out...
PCA DE Tech inspection was still 130 n-m last time I went.
Actually, what happened was that the hex-part of the nut would shear off leaving just the collet. Fun, fun getting that out thanks to the Previous Impact-Wrench-Equipped Wheel Gorilla.
More likely they figured that every single Wheel Gorilla in the world was going to use an air-impact wrench no matter what and they were tired of paying warranty claims for wheels damaged from Mr. WG using a hole saw to get the collet out...
PCA DE Tech inspection was still 130 n-m last time I went.
</sarcasm>
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Hmmm... I wonder what the over-torque failure mode for CLs is? Strips the teeth off of the cap? Or strips the threads from the cap?Or the spindle?
And I wonder how much torque it takes.
Track Rats know. Maybe.
LOL, this may be an objective point in favor CLs: Need a 32-ft lever to over-torque them.
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I use a 3/4 inch Craftsman socket wrench. I wrap my 19mm socket with electrical tape for "padding". For a breaker bar, I bought a 30" section of black pipe (I think it's residential gas pipe, pre-cut) to slip over my wrench. Works great. I dry torque my wheel bolts to 118 ft.lbs with a quality torque wrench.
This increased torque spec started with the 991/981 series when Porsche went up to 20" wheels (up from the 19" wheels).
This increased torque spec started with the 991/981 series when Porsche went up to 20" wheels (up from the 19" wheels).
#13
Burning Brakes
I suspect that the change came when lug bolts replaced lug nuts. The old-style Aluminum alloy lug nuts would have just shredded at 160nm.
Actually, what happened was that the hex-part of the nut would shear off leaving just the collet. Fun, fun getting that out thanks to the Previous Impact-Wrench-Equipped Wheel Gorilla.
More likely they figured that every single Wheel Gorilla in the world was going to use an air-impact wrench no matter what and they were tired of paying warranty claims for wheels damaged from Mr. WG using a hole saw to get the collet out...
PCA DE Tech inspection was still 130 n-m last time I went.
Actually, what happened was that the hex-part of the nut would shear off leaving just the collet. Fun, fun getting that out thanks to the Previous Impact-Wrench-Equipped Wheel Gorilla.
More likely they figured that every single Wheel Gorilla in the world was going to use an air-impact wrench no matter what and they were tired of paying warranty claims for wheels damaged from Mr. WG using a hole saw to get the collet out...
PCA DE Tech inspection was still 130 n-m last time I went.
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You had a 987/997 then? I'd hoped someone that 'lived' the transitions would post.
When did Porsche ditch nuts in favor of studs?
One thing about them: they sure were light. One of these days, when I'm bored to death, I will have to weigh the old nut-stud combo against the new seems-to-weigh-a-pound lug bolt.
#15
Burning Brakes
Would you use titanium bolts to recover some of that "lightness"?