How do you remove lug nuts?
 

Do you use a breaker bar or an electric impact driver? What kind of socket do you use? What is the torque for a 15 991 turbo lug nut??

I know this varies by personal preference, but I always remove (and tighten) by hand tools. In other words, remove using breaker bar, and final tightening by quality torque wrench. Less wear and tear, although I have no idea by how much. If available, I use a "soft" socket, rather than the usual chrome hardened one. It's easier on the bolt surfaces, especially important for black finished bolts. Spec, I believe, is 130 Nm or 96 foot-pounds - dry; don't use lubricant on them. Instructions for CLs are far different, of course.

https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...WLgaAgBe8P8HAQ

Porsche recommends against impact driver because hubs are aluminium and can crack from repeated use of impact tools.

I use a breaker bar to break them and then impact driver to finish the job. This way there is no hammering on the hubs but still a very quick process.

That's a good way. Finish it with a driver. Like one of these, maybe? Milwaukee 2763-22 M18 1/2" Inch Impact Wrench.

I have a Gorilla wrench and torque wrench to spec at 160 nm / 118 ft#. Soft sockets can either have a soft exterior sleeve or soft interior lining. It's easier to touch up the lug bolts than wheel paint so I use a sleeved socket.

____________
2014 991 TT
2013 958 CD

Sleeved socket. 160 n-m torque. Hand tools. Breaker bar to loosen. Keyed-lug off first. Twist-in a guide stud from ECS tuning (or the crappier more-expensive Porsche one.) Speed wrench to remove and install. PI y-beam torque wrench.

130 n-m is the spec for older Porsches. 981 and 991 spec is 160 n-m. Don't know when it changed.

Probably when they figured out some wrenches were not well calibrated and some wheels were falling off! :)

Thanks for the update and correction.

I suspect that the change came when lug bolts replaced lug nuts. The old-style Aluminum alloy lug nuts would have just shredded at 160nm.

Actually, what happened was that the hex-part of the nut would shear off leaving just the collet. Fun, fun getting that out thanks to the Previous Impact-Wrench-Equipped Wheel Gorilla.

More likely they figured that every single Wheel Gorilla in the world was going to use an air-impact wrench no matter what and they were tired of paying warranty claims for wheels damaged from Mr. WG using a hole saw to get the collet out...

PCA DE Tech inspection was still 130 n-m last time I went.

That's why I like Center Locks - no such confusion or controversy there.

</sarcasm> :D

:roflmao: Yeah, Porsche made it sooo much easier for Wheel Gorillas there. :p

Hmmm... I wonder what the over-torque failure mode for CLs is? Strips the teeth off of the cap? Or strips the threads from the cap?Or the spindle?

And I wonder how much torque it takes.

Track Rats know. Maybe.

LOL, this may be an objective point in favor CLs: Need a 32-ft lever to over-torque them.

I use a 3/4 inch Craftsman socket wrench. I wrap my 19mm socket with electrical tape for "padding". For a breaker bar, I bought a 30" section of black pipe (I think it's residential gas pipe, pre-cut) to slip over my wrench. Works great. I dry torque my wheel bolts to 118 ft.lbs with a quality torque wrench.

This increased torque spec started with the 991/981 series when Porsche went up to 20" wheels (up from the 19" wheels).

How quickly we forget about those alloy nuts! I remember them now. My past 944 had Fuchs wheels and those little alloy nuts. I've been so used to wheel bolts that it never occurred to me the spec might have gone up with their arrival.

Ah. Just as plausible.

You had a 987/997 then? I'd hoped someone that 'lived' the transitions would post.

When did Porsche ditch nuts in favor of studs?

One thing about them: they sure were light. One of these days, when I'm bored to death, I will have to weigh the old nut-stud combo against the new seems-to-weigh-a-pound lug bolt.

Would you use titanium bolts to recover some of that "lightness"?