E Allen

I have had a slight intermittent vibration in my steering wheel since I bought my car. It only happens a light on off throttle and usually after speeding up from a light under normal load and then letting off around 5th gear. I had my tech take a look around and and he found the right front axel had a small amount of side to side play in it. He was pretty sure this would cause the vibration I was feeling, the left side was tight with no play at all. Anyone have a good source for axles and are OEM the best option? Thanks

Elijah

Foosh

I can't really tell from your description of when the vibration occurs, but it could also be the front drive module. I had a very slight steering wheel vibration when torque began to transfer from 100% rear to the front diff. It ultimately ended up being diagnosed as slight clutch slippage when the power transfer was beginning to take place. On heavier throttle once the front drive module clutches fully engaged, there was zero vibration. The car was perfectly drivable, and many probably wouldn't have noticed it.

Monitor your torque split gauge and see if the vibration corresponds to when that power transfer begins from rear to front. I notice your car is tuned so it's likely putting more stress on the clutches. Mine is currently 100% OEM.

My 991.1 Turbo S was still covered under CPO, and Porsche agreed to pay for front drive module replacement. It was about an $11K (parts and labor) repair, but zero cost to me. The car is now perfect.

Thicc911Turbo

Some side to side movement is normal; because the steering knuckle moves in an arc the length of the shaft has to change as the suspension moves through its travel. The CV joints allow this by design and it'll look like side-to-side "play".

I feel like the driver's side having no apparent play might be something to look into. If one or both CV joints are binding that could be a source of vibration.

Definitely look into what @Foosh is saying too.

Foosh

Yes, be sure to rule out the simpler/less costly things first as @Thicc911Turbo noted. For me the torque split gauge told the story, because the vibration was only briefly present during that initial power transfer from rear to front. With other front axle component issues, the vibration would more than likely be noticed in other situations.

E Allen

I read through a previous thread where you talked about the vibration you had. The difference in mine is it’s at very slight acceleration before there is any torque split on the gauge and also when you lift off throttle it does it. It’s very intermittent so everything has to be just right to notice it but when it happens it’s very noticeable in the steering wheel and even a little through the whole chassis. Warm vs cold doesn’t seem to affect it either.

Foosh

It does sound a bit different, but mine was also at very light throttle. However, I never noticed any vibration off throttle.

E Allen

Ok good to know a little side to side is normal, so with the drivers side having no side to side you think that one might be the culprit?

Thicc911Turbo

I could only venture that a binding CV joint could be a source of vibration but I wouldn't dare say "Replace that shaft" at this point (i.e. expensive parts-cannon fire...) because there are too many unknowns and I'd hate to be wrong and for you to spend $1K based on bad advice.

I'll offer that if your guy thinks some normal axial play is wrong you might consider getting a 2nd opinion from another shop.

Go to a large, empty parking lot in a quiet area and come to a stop. Wind the window down and crank the steering wheel to full-lock left. Put the trans in D and let the car crawl forward slowly: Do you hear any ticking or clicking or other noises from the front end? Stop and put the car in reverse and repeat, listening for ticking/clicking again. You can try repeating both with the wheel turned to full-lock right.

If you hear clicking it might be that the outer CV joint is worn or binding. Turning the steering to full-lock forces the CV joint ***** to do their maximum sweep across the spider and housing.

Do you know if there's any sign of a CV joint boot split/breakage? (usually you'll see a grease spray on parts in plane with the boot...) If so the grease can leave the joint there and/or water and grit can enter which will shorten the life of a CV joint dramatically.

E Allen

The shaft boots are both in good condition and there is no clicking at full lock either way in reverse or drive. It’s such a hard one to diagnose because it’s only there once in a while and is completely gone the rest of the time.