I’m running the stock Carbon Ceramic brake setup for the 991.1TTS

bought time for new brake pads...I’m don’t road course my car so I don’t have long heat cycling of the brakes so I think I’m okay staying with the stock rotors and calipers because they stop REALLY well from speeds approaching 200 mph...although if their is a brake package that stops better please inform me.

assuming staying with stock rotors and calipers is there a better brake PAD fir overall stopping power than the stock stuff you get from Porsche to use with an otherwise stock setup?

not interested in preventing brake fade because I usually do high speed stops from 180 ish to stop in a relatively short amount of distance but their is time for everything to cool off between runs...just seeing if there is a better pad for shear stopping power and brake modulation control on an otherwise stock TTS brake system?

or if there is a brake system that has more stopping power than stock

 

Steve,
Like you said, you don't track your car and you're not worried about brake fade (a principle benefit of Carbon ceramics). Performance brakes are more about endurance than stopping power and given that you're already on carbon ceramics, there's really nothing to gain. My advice is to not waste your time or money on it.

 

so stock Porsche pccb pads...they seem to work really well for what I need but before I ordered them thought I’d ask you guys if there was something better

thanks Kong

 

Agree with Kong. Likely don’t need to even think about replacing pads until they are at least 50% worn. New the front pads are 10mm, so just I’d wait until you’re below 5mm

 

my car has 13k miles on it now with some REALLY hard if not sustained braking in the last 3 months...the pads are getting pretty low....low enough that I don’t wanna bet my life on them when doing a hard stop from above 170-180 mph

my wife says my life insurance policy might be worth more than having me around some days but I think/hope I’m worth more than $500 worth of brake pad over precaution 😂😂😂

 

Of course, the first time she came to visit me at the track, she rolled through the main gates at Summit Point just as they were cleaning up a totalled Vette at Turn 9 near the grandstands. A funny conversation ensued!
Like you, I'm worth more to my wife dead than alive

 

I specifically answered yes in the life insurance questionnaire if I participated in dangerous sports...and listed auto racing...probably cost me $300 per month for the rest of ma life but they have no excuse not to pay up hahaha

 

HAH. It's time to get you on the track for some REAL driving. Some Castrol SRF is all you need to bring War Admiral out to Belmont Park for a few furlongs.
Join us Steve.... bring that 100,000,000 horsepower car of yours and join the daaaark siiiiiiiiiiddee.....

 

But to be clear, it’s not about mileage, it’s about how much life is left in the brakes. Unless you measure (which takes 15 seconds), you won’t know which side of the line you’re on. Just because brake pads are cheap doesn’t mean that they should be replaced every month..or 1000 miles...or 10000 miles...it all depends on actual wear. I’d be more worried about your tires which are actually what stop the car. My track car went through 3 sets of pads this season, but 10 sets of tires.. just my $0.02

 

^good point

Steve, I know you do the air strip thing (I’ve never done something like that before) but is there any reason why you even need to be hard on the brakes? My thinking is that there should be plenty of room to slow down and no need to be hard on the brakes or more stopping power beyond the already fantastic carbon ceramics. There should be plenty of aerodynamic drag from those speeds to help slow down the car before even touching the brakes. I think you’re doing the right thing making the car lighter which will help but ultimately, I can’t see a need. Even with a set of racing brakes, you’ll gain modulation, heat dissipation (to prevent fade; something you’re not concerned with or really have to deal with doing straight line stuff) and consistency; none of which will really benefit you.

To NightBlue’s point- I use this tool to measure the pad life.




I know what you’re up to though, you are out of stuff to upgrade on the car and just want to spend some money Bruh!

 

Guys, I picked up one of those pad checker tools ^^^^ and am wondering about pad thickness for the rear pads.
I haven't checked them yet but visually the fronts look to be about 9-10mm or so and the rears look to be thinner.
Based on this conversation, new front pad thickness is 10mm.
What is the stock new rear pad thickness so I know the baseline?
I'm going to check them later today.

edit: one additional question, do the pads tend to wear at different rates, front to rear?
Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, PTV and PASM working together activate either rear brakes independently to help with handling. So yes, your rear brake pads can wear out faster than the fronts. However this happens on road courses. Steven, for airport runs in a straight line, it won't happen.

 

Did not know that; there's so much tech in these cars.
Thank you.
I don't think the car was ever tracked, so perhaps my visual appraisal is incorrect.
I'll know later today.

 

😂😂😂

I had a C5 corvette (great track car when set up right) that over time became a gutted out track only car and over a year and a half did every event but one at both the courses at Willow Springs ...both the big track and streets of willow....probably 30 events, just enough to start to be competent lol

i love it but then I moved to Montreal for 4 years....did one event on the Formula 1 course in Montreal but that’s it.

After I moved back to California we had a baby then COVID then work got crazy busy.

now things are starting to settle down I’ll get back out to Willow Springs this springs....my plan all along was to build a supercar daily driver that was fast in a straight line and good on the road courses.

the car has 3 settings, Setting A is track mode with pump gas only....the power is still crazy for a road course but entirely manageable...Setting B is pump gas plus meth and will have 850 whp and about 800 torque...that’s too much torque fir my driving ability on a road course but a blast to drive around with on the street...and setting C is race gas plus meth where it will have about 1100 whp and 800 to 900 torque...that’s full kill mode for airstrips etc

i can’t wait to drive a Porsche at WillowSprings....as you know unless you road course your only using 10% of these cars potential and even in stock form it’s way more car than I am a driver lol


having said all that you would be surprised how much driving skill it takes to drive a car with this much power in a straight line AND get the best times and trap speeds out of it AND keep control of it...very similar to dancing around curves on the edge you have to make millisecond micro adjustments accept with this much power the car’s nannies that normally help you are useless and overwhelmed 😂😁🤗

 

On the breaking part...you’d be surprised how little runway you have left to stop in at or near 200 mph ...and how much strain it puts on the breaks doing repeated hard stops from those speeds...also I go above 180 fairly often out here in the real world (in Mexico of course lol) and you need to slow rapidly when doing that