changes between 2017-now on 991
#31
Racer
#33
Rennlist Member
Back to question...........trivial but Graphite Blue Metallic and Sapphire Blue Metallic on Turbo and S was discontinued as standard color in 2019.........there was a third color but I can't remember.........
#34
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Rhodium Silver was also discontinued; pretty sure I have the last one, in Canada, at least.
#35
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Nope.. It really comes down to price/availability/mileage/CPO/options/warranty. Year doesnt really matter - IMO. Obviously if a 2018 and 2017 are equal in price and everything else - i'd take the 18..
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usrodeo4 (01-16-2020)
#37
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. The only one with all the options I want is currently is the 2017 it actually has less than 1k miles remarkably and is CPO'd. They want 180 it was 250 ordered but I still think that is high. Titled twice which the dealer which was the original dealer said was not an issue. I am dealing with the gut that built it originally and sold it to the second guy that was just waiting for a 19 to be done. All in all the car looks awesome I just would wait or find an 18 or 19 if there were changes that matter.
#38
indesj01,
I just lifted a '19 turbo s w/ 800 miles on it for my blowout build. Looked hard at '17-'19 and seriously the differences are very minor. I lifted the '19 because it was a PTS in aqua blue metallic and it was cheaper than many of the '18's I was looking at. Seems as if the pricing pressure is coming from some on the lot discounting (I saw a lot of new ones that were coming off sticker pretty dramatically) and there is a boat load of inventory in the market. I would just be patient and find the colors/options you want and be indifferent to the model year. I was surprised on a '19 with a $245K sticker I could get done in the low 180's and the car is perfect (going to tear her to shreds now w/ Sammy but that's a different story) I had a few others I was teeing up (miami blue convert that was a '19) as well as a bunch of '18's and '17's. Happy to help, if you have any specific colors your looking for I did a ton of work.
I just lifted a '19 turbo s w/ 800 miles on it for my blowout build. Looked hard at '17-'19 and seriously the differences are very minor. I lifted the '19 because it was a PTS in aqua blue metallic and it was cheaper than many of the '18's I was looking at. Seems as if the pricing pressure is coming from some on the lot discounting (I saw a lot of new ones that were coming off sticker pretty dramatically) and there is a boat load of inventory in the market. I would just be patient and find the colors/options you want and be indifferent to the model year. I was surprised on a '19 with a $245K sticker I could get done in the low 180's and the car is perfect (going to tear her to shreds now w/ Sammy but that's a different story) I had a few others I was teeing up (miami blue convert that was a '19) as well as a bunch of '18's and '17's. Happy to help, if you have any specific colors your looking for I did a ton of work.
#39
Racer
If a used car is highly optioned it can seem like you're getting a huge savings off its original MSRP but you might still be way overpaying. Price out a '19 at MSRP with only options you really must have and then deduct 4% or more for discount. Compare that to the used car offerings and see if there is enough savings for 2 or 3 year's depreciation on an '18 or a '17 and the reduced warranty coverage. Maybe good value, maybe not, but $!80k sounds high on any '17. Tons of options simply don't add much value at resale time.
I was trying to keep the weight down when ordering my '19 and research clearly indicated that the front axle lift was something not required on a Turbo unless you have some kind of a specific clearance challenge. I chose lighter weight and more headroom by skipping a sunroof that I basically never use on many other cars, and I really did not want the radar cruise control which I've had and didn't want again. Bose sounds good to me but Burmester is no doubt better.
So price out your must have option build and deduct whatever discount you think can be had. If you find a used car with at least those must have options you can place a depreciated value on that car. That will put you in the best negotiating position because you have an actual value on the car you want and it will put the dealer in the position of getting his down if he wants to entice you. And if you want to pay more for any additional options the car has then you've got some room to come up to hopefully meet where the price probably should be. My dealer told me the reason his used cars were so expensive was the different way the dealer costs out used vs new. He said to consider the extra cost of a used car as a premium to be able to drive it home right away.
Which brings me to my last bit of advice...the party with the power in a negotiation is the one whose prepared to walk away from it. I suggest you be that one as the game is otherwise completely rigged against you. .
Good luck!.
I was trying to keep the weight down when ordering my '19 and research clearly indicated that the front axle lift was something not required on a Turbo unless you have some kind of a specific clearance challenge. I chose lighter weight and more headroom by skipping a sunroof that I basically never use on many other cars, and I really did not want the radar cruise control which I've had and didn't want again. Bose sounds good to me but Burmester is no doubt better.
So price out your must have option build and deduct whatever discount you think can be had. If you find a used car with at least those must have options you can place a depreciated value on that car. That will put you in the best negotiating position because you have an actual value on the car you want and it will put the dealer in the position of getting his down if he wants to entice you. And if you want to pay more for any additional options the car has then you've got some room to come up to hopefully meet where the price probably should be. My dealer told me the reason his used cars were so expensive was the different way the dealer costs out used vs new. He said to consider the extra cost of a used car as a premium to be able to drive it home right away.
Which brings me to my last bit of advice...the party with the power in a negotiation is the one whose prepared to walk away from it. I suggest you be that one as the game is otherwise completely rigged against you. .
Good luck!.
#41
Instructor
Thread Starter
If a used car is highly optioned it can seem like you're getting a huge savings off its original MSRP but you might still be way overpaying. Price out a '19 at MSRP with only options you really must have and then deduct 4% or more for discount. Compare that to the used car offerings and see if there is enough savings for 2 or 3 year's depreciation on an '18 or a '17 and the reduced warranty coverage. Maybe good value, maybe not, but $!80k sounds high on any '17. Tons of options simply don't add much value at resale time.
I was trying to keep the weight down when ordering my '19 and research clearly indicated that the front axle lift was something not required on a Turbo unless you have some kind of a specific clearance challenge. I chose lighter weight and more headroom by skipping a sunroof that I basically never use on many other cars, and I really did not want the radar cruise control which I've had and didn't want again. Bose sounds good to me but Burmester is no doubt better.
So price out your must have option build and deduct whatever discount you think can be had. If you find a used car with at least those must have options you can place a depreciated value on that car. That will put you in the best negotiating position because you have an actual value on the car you want and it will put the dealer in the position of getting his down if he wants to entice you. And if you want to pay more for any additional options the car has then you've got some room to come up to hopefully meet where the price probably should be. My dealer told me the reason his used cars were so expensive was the different way the dealer costs out used vs new. He said to consider the extra cost of a used car as a premium to be able to drive it home right away.
Which brings me to my last bit of advice...the party with the power in a negotiation is the one whose prepared to walk away from it. I suggest you be that one as the game is otherwise completely rigged against you. .
Good luck!.
I was trying to keep the weight down when ordering my '19 and research clearly indicated that the front axle lift was something not required on a Turbo unless you have some kind of a specific clearance challenge. I chose lighter weight and more headroom by skipping a sunroof that I basically never use on many other cars, and I really did not want the radar cruise control which I've had and didn't want again. Bose sounds good to me but Burmester is no doubt better.
So price out your must have option build and deduct whatever discount you think can be had. If you find a used car with at least those must have options you can place a depreciated value on that car. That will put you in the best negotiating position because you have an actual value on the car you want and it will put the dealer in the position of getting his down if he wants to entice you. And if you want to pay more for any additional options the car has then you've got some room to come up to hopefully meet where the price probably should be. My dealer told me the reason his used cars were so expensive was the different way the dealer costs out used vs new. He said to consider the extra cost of a used car as a premium to be able to drive it home right away.
Which brings me to my last bit of advice...the party with the power in a negotiation is the one whose prepared to walk away from it. I suggest you be that one as the game is otherwise completely rigged against you. .
Good luck!.
#42
Instructor
As a seller, you typically don't expect to recoup the cost of options and take the biggest depreciation hit on a high option car. Sounds like that dealership is trying to buck the trend by pricing a CPO 2017 at $180k.
$180k isn't too far from a used 2019 TTS with delivery miles, so I would walk unless that particular 2017 has all of your must-have options (still not sure how it was larded up to a $250k msrp).
And remember there is a ton of inventory (used and new) just sitting on dealer lots. One of my local dealers has 10 (ten!!!) NEW 2019 TTS sitting on lot, unsold.
$180k isn't too far from a used 2019 TTS with delivery miles, so I would walk unless that particular 2017 has all of your must-have options (still not sure how it was larded up to a $250k msrp).
And remember there is a ton of inventory (used and new) just sitting on dealer lots. One of my local dealers has 10 (ten!!!) NEW 2019 TTS sitting on lot, unsold.
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usrodeo4 (01-16-2020)
#43
Racer
1 Gunner, I doubt you can still order a '19 but I believe the pricing is still up for reference when buying one off a lot.
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usrodeo4 (01-16-2020)
#45
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks. The ‘17 he is telling me warranty only good till 6/2022. I thought they had 4 years plus 2 additional from the cpo? Not just remaining original???
Last edited by indesj01; 01-16-2020 at 11:45 PM. Reason: Mistake