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Long term reliability

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Old 11-10-2016, 06:53 PM
  #16  
GT3 KSA
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You can always wait and order a .2 GT3 which i assume is the safest bet
Old 11-10-2016, 09:17 PM
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CAlexio
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Originally Posted by Just in time
All the comments above are very accurate. The car certainly is not a truck. Those that are tracked seem to exhibit earlier wear issues, although some of the Listers like Orthojoe that track their cars halve had no issues. If concerned about absolute reliability I would buy a Chevy Silverado.
My Chevy Silverado in school had these crazy oiling issues, also the 5 lug wheels which required a special English Allen wrench which always rounded the bolts.. trip to the dealer each time to change a tire... Not to mention the door seals, let me tell you about those.....
Old 11-14-2016, 10:06 PM
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moabslickrock
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Most reliable track car I've owned has to be a spec miata.
Old 11-20-2016, 12:14 PM
  #19  
Hex
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Default How do I tell which engine I got.

Originally Posted by elp_jc
Based on the engine failure thread, seems like ALL engines have defective lubrication (newer ones less so), meaning all will fail prematurely (compared to a non-GT engine)... but on a non-tracked car with a G engine, it might never fail even under a prolongued ownership. Now, as for the letters, E means 2014 (all replaced), F 2015 and G 2016. But even Gs have had further improvements starting in July builds, with DLC coating on cam lobes (early Gs only had the rockers). And G engines have a much improved oiling system, so if I were you, I'd only buy a non-tracked car with a G engine AND extended warranty. But that depends on your risk tolerance. Mine is very little for that kind of thing, so no 991 GT3 for me. Good luck.
How do I tell if my rockers and cam lobes got the dlc coating? How can I date my engine? Basically how do I know when my car was built?
Old 11-20-2016, 12:21 PM
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drdonger
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Buy the 7 years 100k mile warranty. I would not keep the current GT3 beyond warranty. I plan on getting the 7 year 100k mile one for the 991.2 GT3.
Old 11-20-2016, 02:26 PM
  #21  
Waxer
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The subset of owners having serious failures on track are a very small percentage of the number of GT3s used for track work.

I know of a number of owners that regularly track their '15 GT3 and run them as they were meant to be run at the track. No issues.

07 to '11 GT3 motors had their issues too and issues with over rev concerns.

Any engine regardless of manufacturer subject to the increased stress of track and/or race conditions will have a higher risk of failure.

Case in point, Z06 track failures due to overheating, GT350 recall due to faulty oil line connectors causing fires....

No car is immune and cars in the future will have their issues too.

GT3 is a great car and will more likely than not be trouble free with street and track use as intended with proper maintenace. Of course you should make sure having a good warranty as you would do with any high ticket car.
Old 11-20-2016, 04:00 PM
  #22  
JCtx
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Originally Posted by Hex
How do I tell if my rockers and cam lobes got the dlc coating?
Easy. Open your engine cover and check your engine serial number. If it's above G05374, you have the latest upgrades. I got this info from Macca's engine failure thread (with a gazillion pages), by the way. Good luck.
Old 11-20-2016, 04:15 PM
  #23  
Just in time
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Originally Posted by CAlexio
My Chevy Silverado in school had these crazy oiling issues, also the 5 lug wheels which required a special English Allen wrench which always rounded the bolts.. trip to the dealer each time to change a tire... Not to mention the door seals, let me tell you about those.....
Ours lasted for a long time, it did have its own unique quirks but never left us stranded or with major problems. I could say the same of a Toyota Land Cruiser (Circa1988) that was our family workhorse. The thing was just bulletproof. That compared to my Volvo 142E (1971). I had no idea if it would start on any given day. Even after just turning it off it may have not started again! Sometimes it would go days in a row before it would fire up again. I loved the car so much that I had a beat up car (Toyota Corona) as a back up just in case, Also I once made the horrendous mistake of falling in love with a 1979 Chevy Montecarlo. Talk about unreliable. That one would actually just shut down by itself while on the highway! It required pulling aside (carefully I may add as it was under no power) waiting a few minutes and then trying to restart it. They could never find what was wrong with it. They changed every conceivable part to no avail. I dropped it like a hot potato. A relative wanted the car, although I tried to dissuade him (half harted effort I guess) he insisted. So I cut a good deal, sold him the car, and went straight to confession afterwards. Now for me the crown of unreliability was my Audi 5000CS(1984). That 5000CS broke the transmission, the torque converter, the half shafts ( several times), the power brake booster, among other things. And the most unusual: one day when I opened the car it smelled like rotten eggs...well the rear seat had melted as the battery let go the acid which ate the foam forming the seat. The dealer had packed up and left my market but left behind a service shop to honor the warranty. I sold it back to them at a horrendous loss of about 90% of MSRP after just over two years of use. The service guys refurbished the car and sold it to a third party. I got to see the car at least two more times stranded on the road. I stopped both times and asked the owners "did you inquire about the car history?" (No Carfax back then) I became convinced that the 5000 stood for 5 cylinders, 0 fun, 0 reliability and 0 resale value. Now those were unreliable ones. For years I avoided Audi at all cost.

Full disclosure: 30 years later I did get an Audi A6 with a CVT. It was a very reliable car but I gave it right back after I experienced CVT angst. Now, my DD is an S7, so far one of the very best and most satisfying cars I have ever owned. Unreliability is not in the eye of the beholder, it is when u have to call someone to come pick u up!
Old 11-20-2016, 05:22 PM
  #24  
Hex
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Originally Posted by elp_jc
Easy. Open your engine cover and check your engine serial number. If it's above G05374, you have the latest upgrades. I got this info from Macca's engine failure thread (with a gazillion pages), by the way. Good luck.
Thanks man. She's in the 6000's. Yehaw!
Old 10-15-2019, 02:04 AM
  #25  
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I'm going in for a final look at a 2015 tomorrow - this is useful info, thanks all.
Old 10-16-2019, 12:11 PM
  #26  
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Subscribed!
Old 10-16-2019, 01:25 PM
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452gt3
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I own 2 GT3's both heavily tracked and both had engine replacements at aprox. 18k. Last one was replaced a few months ago and after 2 track events it went back for trans leak twice and I will pick it up today with a new PDK, thank you Porsche!
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Old 03-08-2021, 01:03 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 452gt3
I own 2 GT3's both heavily tracked and both had engine replacements at aprox. 18k. Last one was replaced a few months ago and after 2 track events it went back for trans leak twice and I will pick it up today with a new PDK, thank you Porsche!
Do you still have the car now with the replacement newer G engine? @452gt3 how is it holding up?



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