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I'm a homebuilder and you could fix the roof with a stick framed tray ceiling and repaint and sheetrock for probably less than $5k. Cheaper than a new garage or moving! Put recessed can lights in as well to fix lighting if that's an issue. Good luck.
DutchGT3
Thanks for your comprehensive review. I think you convinced me to cover my Wrangler and it goes outside. I installed a 4 post lift 27 years ago and am over that as well. Between lift, install and garage door redue I am looking at 5K or $350 for a Jeep cover.
Again thanks for taking the time for a great response
I’ve got an Atlas Garage Pro 8000lb lift with 2 Atlas Garage Pro sliding hydraulic jacks (3500lb) each. And extra long aluminum ramps. Used a couple of times-perfect condition. I’m moving and not going to take it. New in 2015. Located in Cincinnati if anyone is interested in a good deal and can pick it up. Total package new was $3484.00. Asking $2k.
I'm using the standard yellow heavy steel ramps and they flip down which doesn't work for me otherwise the M5 will hit them when driving underneath. So I did not permanently install the ramps and only put them in place when putting the car on (and off) the lift and remove them before raising the lift. Given that my garage door will hit the rear spoiler when fully opening the garage door, I have to drive the car on the lift backwards. The garage door will slide just above the frunk and is still 4 or so inches away from hitting the windscreen. When driving on backwards I have no issues with the front end of the car hitting the ramp. I will double check, but I think although I do have FAL I did not use it when driving the car on/off the lift.
You can get these ramp lock pieces to keep the ramp horizontal or close to horizontal when the lift is up, so you can drive under without issue.
Lots of information to review. Do you guys think 2- 50 1/2 inch cars will work with a ceiling height of 108 inches. Thinking of the BendPak.
That seems problematic to me with a BP lift. The runway is 5" tall, so the combo of the cars plus the runway height puts you at 106". As noted you need about 2" above that to get the lift off the locks, so you have legit risk of bumping the ceiling unless you can create a recess in that ceiling where the high point of the car is.
Remember, BendPak requires the use of an air compressor, so you need to factor in the space and to run the lines for that as well. Otherwise, BendPak is probably the best 4 post lift for residential use.
I use this Craftsman compressor with my BP lift. I mounted it out of the way, high up the wall, near the post with the lift controls. Wired in a switched outlet so just need to hit the switch and run the compressor for about 10 secs to build up enough PSI to drive the airlocks. It has worked great - though it's loud for the 10 secs that it runs.
I am thinking of stacking my cars but why is everybody referencing ceiling height as the limiting factor? Isn't the garage door about 12" lower that the ceiling when opened and that is the limiting clearance? And if you have a two door garage with the center hing attached to the the center of the door, this subtracts another 6" or so of clearance.
Your garage door company can move the tracks until they and the door are about 6" from the ceiling. They replace the center lift motor to a side lift so it is totally removed. Overhead Door wanted $1150 to do mine. You then may have to back the top car in.
I have decently high ceilings in my garage but I still had to raise the door opening height on the side with the lift. Like White6speed I paid about $1,200 installed, which included new tracks and a lift master 8500W.