Laguna Seca 92 dB day - passed sound with stock exhaust!
04-17-2015, 07:09 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
I've ordered an extra PSE control valve (item #1 in the below part list) to begin experimenting. With an extra valve, it should be easy to rig up an OEM-override to the exhaust valves by simply plumbing a bypass around the OEM valve through the extra valve.
I also purchased a basic GPS development board to rig up the location-based switching. With any luck I'll get this up and running in a few weeks. I think it'll be a fun project, so I'm going to try to make it happen.
Stay tuned...
I also purchased a basic GPS development board to rig up the location-based switching. With any luck I'll get this up and running in a few weeks. I think it'll be a fun project, so I'm going to try to make it happen.
Stay tuned...Subscribed.
04-18-2015, 12:07 AM
#32
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
04-18-2015, 01:17 AM
#33
Nordschleife Master
04-18-2015, 06:20 PM
#34
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
UPDATE: I took the engine cover off and located the OEM PSE solenoid and associated vacuum lines used for actuation. The valve is hard to access, but luckily the actual vacuum lines are routed in a way that will conveniently let me tap into them without any permanent modifications or impact to the OEM operation.
The PSE solenoid has 3 vacuum connections on it:
1) connects to the exhaust actuators in front of the side mufflers
2) connects to a vacuum reservoir (where vacuum is always available as this reservoir is topped off any time you are off throttle). This looks easy to tap into this line because a "T" exists near the solenoid with an unused connection that is plugged with a fitting.
3) connects to "ambient pressure" via a tap into the intake system after the air filter but before the throttle body (clean air). This looks easy to tap into because it simply connects to the side of the intake boot.
To make the exhaust QUIET, the system CLOSES the valves by switching the PSE solenoid to connect *vacuum* to the exhaust actuators. To make the exhaust LOUD, the system OPENS the valves by switching the PSE solenoid to connect *ambient pressure* to the exhaust actuators.
So to override the system, I'll just need another PSE solenoid identical to the stock one, and insert it in the *ambient pressure* line to let me select to route either *ambient pressure* or *vacuum* to connection #3 on the original PSE solenoid.
When the new PSE solenoid is switched to *vacuum*, then the two connections on the original PSE solenoid will both be *vacuum*, so no matter what the original stock valve state is, the valves will always be closed.
When the new PSE solenoid is switched to *ambient pressure*, then the original PSE solenoid inputs will be unchanged, and the OEM system will functional normally.
So with the vacuum line routing and actuation solved, the last piece to work out is the GPS-based geofence trigger. More on that later...
The PSE solenoid has 3 vacuum connections on it:
1) connects to the exhaust actuators in front of the side mufflers
2) connects to a vacuum reservoir (where vacuum is always available as this reservoir is topped off any time you are off throttle). This looks easy to tap into this line because a "T" exists near the solenoid with an unused connection that is plugged with a fitting.
3) connects to "ambient pressure" via a tap into the intake system after the air filter but before the throttle body (clean air). This looks easy to tap into because it simply connects to the side of the intake boot.
To make the exhaust QUIET, the system CLOSES the valves by switching the PSE solenoid to connect *vacuum* to the exhaust actuators. To make the exhaust LOUD, the system OPENS the valves by switching the PSE solenoid to connect *ambient pressure* to the exhaust actuators.
So to override the system, I'll just need another PSE solenoid identical to the stock one, and insert it in the *ambient pressure* line to let me select to route either *ambient pressure* or *vacuum* to connection #3 on the original PSE solenoid.
When the new PSE solenoid is switched to *vacuum*, then the two connections on the original PSE solenoid will both be *vacuum*, so no matter what the original stock valve state is, the valves will always be closed.
When the new PSE solenoid is switched to *ambient pressure*, then the original PSE solenoid inputs will be unchanged, and the OEM system will functional normally.
So with the vacuum line routing and actuation solved, the last piece to work out is the GPS-based geofence trigger. More on that later...
04-19-2015, 01:09 AM
#36
Nordschleife Master
UPDATE: I took the engine cover off and located the OEM PSE solenoid and associated vacuum lines used for actuation. The valve is hard to access, but luckily the actual vacuum lines are routed in a way that will conveniently let me tap into them without any permanent modifications or impact to the OEM operation.
The PSE solenoid has 3 vacuum connections on it:
1) connects to the exhaust actuators in front of the side mufflers
2) connects to a vacuum reservoir (where vacuum is always available as this reservoir is topped off any time you are off throttle). This looks easy to tap into this line because a "T" exists near the solenoid with an unused connection that is plugged with a fitting.
3) connects to "ambient pressure" via a tap into the intake system after the air filter but before the throttle body (clean air). This looks easy to tap into because it simply connects to the side of the intake boot.
To make the exhaust QUIET, the system CLOSES the valves by switching the PSE solenoid to connect *vacuum* to the exhaust actuators. To make the exhaust LOUD, the system OPENS the valves by switching the PSE solenoid to connect *ambient pressure* to the exhaust actuators.
So to override the system, I'll just need another PSE solenoid identical to the stock one, and insert it in the *ambient pressure* line to let me select to route either *ambient pressure* or *vacuum* to connection #3 on the original PSE solenoid.
When the new PSE solenoid is switched to *vacuum*, then the two connections on the original PSE solenoid will both be *vacuum*, so no matter what the original stock valve state is, the valves will always be closed.
When the new PSE solenoid is switched to *ambient pressure*, then the original PSE solenoid inputs will be unchanged, and the OEM system will functional normally.
So with the vacuum line routing and actuation solved, the last piece to work out is the GPS-based geofence trigger. More on that later...
The PSE solenoid has 3 vacuum connections on it:
1) connects to the exhaust actuators in front of the side mufflers
2) connects to a vacuum reservoir (where vacuum is always available as this reservoir is topped off any time you are off throttle). This looks easy to tap into this line because a "T" exists near the solenoid with an unused connection that is plugged with a fitting.
3) connects to "ambient pressure" via a tap into the intake system after the air filter but before the throttle body (clean air). This looks easy to tap into because it simply connects to the side of the intake boot.
To make the exhaust QUIET, the system CLOSES the valves by switching the PSE solenoid to connect *vacuum* to the exhaust actuators. To make the exhaust LOUD, the system OPENS the valves by switching the PSE solenoid to connect *ambient pressure* to the exhaust actuators.
So to override the system, I'll just need another PSE solenoid identical to the stock one, and insert it in the *ambient pressure* line to let me select to route either *ambient pressure* or *vacuum* to connection #3 on the original PSE solenoid.
When the new PSE solenoid is switched to *vacuum*, then the two connections on the original PSE solenoid will both be *vacuum*, so no matter what the original stock valve state is, the valves will always be closed.
When the new PSE solenoid is switched to *ambient pressure*, then the original PSE solenoid inputs will be unchanged, and the OEM system will functional normally.
So with the vacuum line routing and actuation solved, the last piece to work out is the GPS-based geofence trigger. More on that later...
04-19-2015, 01:49 AM
#38
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
The easy (but more costly) solution is to just add a separate solenoid for this purpose and manipulate the vacuum signals instead.
Last edited by Mech33; 04-19-2015 at 05:21 AM.
04-19-2015, 01:57 AM
#39
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
UPDATE: I received the GPS development board and got it up and running today. It's now calculating relative distance from a (latitude,longitude) coordinate and triggering a relay based on a specified radius from that point. It was pretty easy with the base example code for the GPS module.
I tested it out tonight by programming a geofence around my house and verified that it trips the on-board relay as soon as I drive far enough away.
So now I just need the extra OEM solenoid to arrive so I can rig everything up and give it a try. But it looks like it should work!
Here's a pic of the board stack (just a simple Arduino Uno dev board, plus a Relay Shield module, plus an Adafruit Ultimate GPS shield module). I set the red LEDs to indicate when I am within the geofence. I remember when this used to require far more skill to get up and running than it does now... :P
I tested it out tonight by programming a geofence around my house and verified that it trips the on-board relay as soon as I drive far enough away.
So now I just need the extra OEM solenoid to arrive so I can rig everything up and give it a try. But it looks like it should work!
Here's a pic of the board stack (just a simple Arduino Uno dev board, plus a Relay Shield module, plus an Adafruit Ultimate GPS shield module). I set the red LEDs to indicate when I am within the geofence. I remember when this used to require far more skill to get up and running than it does now... :P
Last edited by Mech33; 04-19-2015 at 05:20 AM.
04-19-2015, 11:12 AM
#40
Nordschleife Master
UPDATE: I received the GPS development board and got it up and running today. It's now calculating relative distance from a (latitude,longitude) coordinate and triggering a relay based on a specified radius from that point. It was pretty easy with the base example code for the GPS module.
I tested it out tonight by programming a geofence around my house and verified that it trips the on-board relay as soon as I drive far enough away.
So now I just need the extra OEM solenoid to arrive so I can rig everything up and give it a try. But it looks like it should work!
Here's a pic of the board stack (just a simple Arduino Uno dev board, plus a Relay Shield module, plus an Adafruit Ultimate GPS shield module). I set the red LEDs to indicate when I am within the geofence. I remember when this used to require far more skill to get up and running than it does now... :P
I tested it out tonight by programming a geofence around my house and verified that it trips the on-board relay as soon as I drive far enough away.
So now I just need the extra OEM solenoid to arrive so I can rig everything up and give it a try. But it looks like it should work!
Here's a pic of the board stack (just a simple Arduino Uno dev board, plus a Relay Shield module, plus an Adafruit Ultimate GPS shield module). I set the red LEDs to indicate when I am within the geofence. I remember when this used to require far more skill to get up and running than it does now... :P
Awesome! What is the total cost on hardware so far?
04-19-2015, 02:11 PM
#41
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
OEM PSE solenoid: $65
Processor board: $25
Relay board: $20
GPS board: $50
Car cigarette lighter power plug with fuse: $10
External GPS antenna (optional, will play with both configs): $20
I still need:
Miscellaneous vacuum tubing: $20 (estimate)
Plastic enclosure for the electronics: $10 (estimate)
Total: $220
Geofencing the Laguna sound booth so you can buzz around in full loud 9k glory throughout the rest of the track: PRICELESS
If custom designed and fabricated in a reasonable production run, the electronics would be WAY smaller and WAY cheaper. I'm using off-the-shelf board to make it easy and fast, not cheap.
Processor board: $25
Relay board: $20
GPS board: $50
Car cigarette lighter power plug with fuse: $10
External GPS antenna (optional, will play with both configs): $20
I still need:
Miscellaneous vacuum tubing: $20 (estimate)
Plastic enclosure for the electronics: $10 (estimate)
Total: $220
Geofencing the Laguna sound booth so you can buzz around in full loud 9k glory throughout the rest of the track: PRICELESS
If custom designed and fabricated in a reasonable production run, the electronics would be WAY smaller and WAY cheaper. I'm using off-the-shelf board to make it easy and fast, not cheap.
Last edited by Mech33; 04-19-2015 at 02:29 PM.
04-19-2015, 02:28 PM
#42
Nordschleife Master
OEM PSE solenoid: $65
Processor board: $25
Relay board: $20
GPS board: $55
Car cigarette lighter power plug with fuse: $10
External GPS antenna (optional, will play with both configs): $20
I still need:
Miscellaneous vacuum tubing: $20 (estimate)
Plastic enclosure for the electronics: $10 (estimate)
Total: $225
Geofencing the Laguna sound booth so you can buzz around in full loud 9k glory throughout the rest of the track: PRICELESS
If custom designed and fabricated in a reasonable production run, the electronics would be WAY smaller and WAY cheaper. I'm using off-the-shelf board to make it easy and fast, not cheap.
Processor board: $25
Relay board: $20
GPS board: $55
Car cigarette lighter power plug with fuse: $10
External GPS antenna (optional, will play with both configs): $20
I still need:
Miscellaneous vacuum tubing: $20 (estimate)
Plastic enclosure for the electronics: $10 (estimate)
Total: $225
Geofencing the Laguna sound booth so you can buzz around in full loud 9k glory throughout the rest of the track: PRICELESS
If custom designed and fabricated in a reasonable production run, the electronics would be WAY smaller and WAY cheaper. I'm using off-the-shelf board to make it easy and fast, not cheap.
04-19-2015, 07:26 PM
#43
Nordschleife Master
OEM PSE solenoid: $65
Processor board: $25
Relay board: $20
GPS board: $50
Car cigarette lighter power plug with fuse: $10
External GPS antenna (optional, will play with both configs): $20
I still need:
Miscellaneous vacuum tubing: $20 (estimate)
Plastic enclosure for the electronics: $10 (estimate)
Total: $220
Geofencing the Laguna sound booth so you can buzz around in full loud 9k glory throughout the rest of the track: PRICELESS
If custom designed and fabricated in a reasonable production run, the electronics would be WAY smaller and WAY cheaper. I'm using off-the-shelf board to make it easy and fast, not cheap.
Processor board: $25
Relay board: $20
GPS board: $50
Car cigarette lighter power plug with fuse: $10
External GPS antenna (optional, will play with both configs): $20
I still need:
Miscellaneous vacuum tubing: $20 (estimate)
Plastic enclosure for the electronics: $10 (estimate)
Total: $220
Geofencing the Laguna sound booth so you can buzz around in full loud 9k glory throughout the rest of the track: PRICELESS
If custom designed and fabricated in a reasonable production run, the electronics would be WAY smaller and WAY cheaper. I'm using off-the-shelf board to make it easy and fast, not cheap.
04-19-2015, 09:02 PM
#45
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter