Having Xpel put on in a week
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Having Xpel put on in a week
I'm having a local Xpel installer wrap the car the week after next. For $1100 they have a standard install (1/2 hood, front bumper area & partial front quarter). For $1895, they do the entire hood, full mirrors, full fenders) which I'm leaning towards. They will do the roof/A pillars for $175. Lastly, full rockers are $595 each. What are the problem areas typically for attracting chips. On my 996TT, the hood was a stone magnet. I'm just wondering if the rocker kit is with it.
#3
Burning Brakes
I have 2nd option, plus full rockers and door handles and behind rear wheels. The rockers and rear fenders get killed on the wide bodies. My 991 4s and turbo were sand blasted.
#4
I went option b. On a white car if you don't do the full hood the line is gonna be very visible and get worse over time.
Additionally I removed the factory rockers film and had extended film there as well. Those areas take a beating and you should also ask for a small bit of film on the inside rear wheel well. That's the other spot that's gonna get blasted.
Assuming since your going the film route your wanting to protect it. With the full front you cannot tell it's covered at all.
Additionally I removed the factory rockers film and had extended film there as well. Those areas take a beating and you should also ask for a small bit of film on the inside rear wheel well. That's the other spot that's gonna get blasted.
Assuming since your going the film route your wanting to protect it. With the full front you cannot tell it's covered at all.
#6
I had my factory stone guards replaced with Xpel ones on my white car. Much less yellow than factory but for those obsessive ones amongst us you can still detect an ever do slight change in color.
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#8
Echo as well. Must have imo;
Entire front clip, remove factory shark fin, replace with much larger piece which seamlessly blends into rockers. Rear facia behind wheels.
White car here as well. As LAGinz said, factory fin yellows fast.
I also did A pillars and 6" roofline. Skip that if you want to minimize seams.
Xpel Ultimate. Looks great.
Entire front clip, remove factory shark fin, replace with much larger piece which seamlessly blends into rockers. Rear facia behind wheels.
White car here as well. As LAGinz said, factory fin yellows fast.
I also did A pillars and 6" roofline. Skip that if you want to minimize seams.
Xpel Ultimate. Looks great.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the insight. I definitely am going with the full hood option. Was on the fence for the rear fender area but will probably end up going with this also.
#11
Rennlist Member
track use? if so, full bumper, hood, front fenders, lower rockers, in front of rear wheels, behind rear wheels, doors, mirrors, door handles (you would be surprised how pummeled these get), a pillars, partial or full hood. i get rubber and marks all over these areas, the area on the hips in front of the rear wheels and bumper get the most of it. Bad, i have double layer on rockers and in front of rear wheels.
if not track use, full hood, full front bumper, full fenders, and use factory stone guards in front of rear wheels, and i'd do behind rear wheels too
if not track use, full hood, full front bumper, full fenders, and use factory stone guards in front of rear wheels, and i'd do behind rear wheels too
#12
Burning Brakes
Just had mine done. Half hood is crazy. Data point - I sat in BMW dealer a few weeks backs and they had brand new Z4 on the floor with a half hood bra on and EVERYONE who walked past it made a comment about it - very visible.
I got the factory protection removed from the rear arches and had them cover the area as marked out in picture below. The line is visible if you're looking for it but it sort of gets hidden in the curve of the arch which also has the lght glare on it to help mask the edge.
I got the factory protection removed from the rear arches and had them cover the area as marked out in picture below. The line is visible if you're looking for it but it sort of gets hidden in the curve of the arch which also has the lght glare on it to help mask the edge.
Last edited by Ducati1199; 05-08-2015 at 10:34 PM.
#13
Rennlist Member
One point, normal PPF is quite a bit thinner than the OEM arch guards. On track that area takes the biggest beating. The front R comp tires when hot pickup all kinds of crap spit it right back there and will smack right through PPF. Ask me how I know :-) I double layered back there and results are good. Plus I can remove just the top layer and reapply when it gets too beat up.
#14
Race Director
I have come to the conclusion that on a white car the stone guard will need to be replaced every 2 years - at a minimum regardless of type of film unless black fim is used
#15