rockitman

Is the multiplier necessary if you go with a digital wrench like this ?
1/2" drive, 300-3000 lb/ft.
http://www.protorquetools.com/cat-32...e-wrenches.htm

Jaypod

That's inch pounds not foot pounds. It is possible to get a wrench that does not require a multiplier however. Snap on and precision both have them. (Up to 600 ft lb I believe)

rockitman

I see that now, so yes, need a multiplier. Is the CL removal tool/chuck 1/2" socket ? I can't tell on Suncoast's site.

alpine-al

The multiplier seems to be a good tool, but it multiplies the inaccuracy of your torque wrench by 6 and adds its own inaccuracy. If you value convenience and aren't fanatical about safety, then the multiple is a good choice.

rockitman

I'm not crazy about multipliers. Before I can figure out which wrench to go with I need to find out what size drive the CL removal tool needs...ie: 1/2" or 3/4". I am hoping for 3/4" as most wrenches that go to 600 ft. Lbs. seem to have 3/4" drivers. Anyone know ?

Mike in CA

Excellent point Phil, and well made! I thought you had probably seen the pic of the GT3 up on the JP stands in the oil change thread but also thought it would be useful for others here who may have missed it. Anyway, thanks!

mooty

ah... perhaps you need to repaint it red? it's cheaper to paint the jack than the car to purple


the 1200 jack is the cheapest one they make. it's a very nice jack. and i haven't seen any jack that compares to it. i am cheap so i use the $700 AC hydrailic jack, of which i have three. i prefer AC jack stand of JP so various reasons. although JP stands are of top quality.

imo AC jacks are better and more stable than the brunhoezel (sp) but one is 100 lbs the other i can lift with one hand.


you can use impact too to remove the nut and put it on (then torque it with precision TQ wrench). HOWEVER, the nut is alum, it will be destroyed. u can always use new CL nuts every time you change wheels. it's just money.

Alan C.

The input on the center lock tool is 3/4"
You need to check the accuracy of your torque multiplier along with your torque wrench on a regular basis. I know people with torque wrenches that have used them for breaker bars and torque applications without ever checking their accuracy.

The next time I send mine out for calibration I'll check to see if they can set my torque wrench for 74 lb. and tell me what the output is on the torque multiplier. Repeat 5 times and see what it looks like. Do the stacked errors stay consistent in that range?

rubbaman

What's the manual say for torque settings on the center locks when tightening?
440 nm? Or 440 ft. Lbs?
I know once you tighten, you need to back off 60 degrees and re torque.

neanicu

FT/LBS

rubbaman

Thanks!

jpoint

At the risk of hijacking back the thread - I ordered some Brunnhoelzl jacks. I guess I need to make some room on the shelf and unload a few old aluminum jacks. It's a funny thing to get excited about - but the nice thing about good tools is they don't become junk in 2 years. I've got thousands of dollars in not so old computers and phones sitting around that need to be tossed. Unless you really beat on your electronics - they're really useless long before they're worn out. You line up to get an iphone and by the time you get to the front of the line - they've updated it. I still have the first Craftsman jack I bought when I started wrenching my first car in 1976. It still works great but I had to save up to buy it as a broke grad student. It costs me 2 weeks' pay.

Gt3Fan

Do you use the jp stands with the standard pad or low profile?

SanDiegoDavid

Mike,

Looks great. Quick question regarding clearance: I don't have clearance with the Jackpoint jack stand hat on top of my Pittsburgh 1.5 racing jack. Do you first lift the car up and place a race ramp, drop the car down then place the jack stand hat, then lift?

MileHigh911

You will either need a jack with a lower pick up point, or see if JP can customize the pad, or more likely, drive the wheels onto a couple pieces of wood, to get the clearance you need.
JP stands are designed to lift the car, just like you attempted, with the JP hat on the jack, then position the base, and lower the hat into the stand.