HB Driver

Have any current owners of the 991 GT3 looked into DIY oil changes? My 991 C2S is probably the easiest car to DIY oil change. Oil filter top mounted, hex (Allen) bolt to remove oil that's it, except for removing the fans. Some of my other cars you've gotta take the bottom fairings (covers) off. They are not done by me. PIA

I ask this probably because I'm going to change the oil after the break in period. I know lots of discussion on braking in the engine, I'm not going down that road. Either way I still want to change my oil around 2500 miles.

I know the GT3 has a separate oil reservoir, where is the oil filter located, and do any fairings block access to the drain bolt and/or the oil filter? Does it use the same cartridge filters as the 991 C2S. Only because I have a few left.

Thanks in advance -

kosmo

the Oil filter on the GT3 is different.

Mike in CA

All good questions. I know the filter has been relocated to the bottom of the engine but I don't know if it uses a unique filter cartridge. I need to pull off the rear undertray/diffuser panel and scope things out...

aamersa

If porsche says first oil change is at 10 k miles, that's when it should be done.

HB Driver

I know Porsche says 10k or 1 year and BMW said the same. BMW maintenance was included, and if you make a bit of a stink they would change it early. I know it's synthetic oil, but 10k miles is a long time if you seating rings and other parts.

Mike in CA

A lot of people like to change oil after the break-in period. I'm one of them. It certainly doesn't hurt anything, regardless of what Porsche recommends.

HB Driver

So you are saying there is an undertray/diffuser in the way, unlike the 991 C2S. Does is cover the drain plug too? Thanks for the info.


Doesn't look as simple any more without a lift.

Mike in CA

I know the filter has been re-located from the top of the engine to the bottom so it's different than the 9A1 in the Carrera. Sorry to say I haven't spent as much time under this car as I usually do with new cars but it appears the diffuser (which is held in place by 8 Torx head screws) will need to be removed to get to both the drain plug and filter. My old dry sump 3.2 Carrera had a separate drain plug for the oil tank. I don't know if that's this case with this car and/or if there is any kind of special procedure required to "bleed" the oil system.

doubleurx

Talk to any engine builder and they cringe at this. You definitely want to change at break in.

I'll dive into it for sure. My garage addition is nearly finished with a bendpak SP 7X flush mounted. First thing I'll do when I get it home is pop it up on the lift.

kosmo

Porsche also says tracking will void the warranty

kosmo

according to a tech, the GT3 uses a Canister style oil filter.

911dev

I would never wait that long. I.E; Some E46 M3s with only 30k plus on the clock have known issues with sludge in the crank case due to owner's changing the oil as per the manual's recommendations. I could go on, but won't. Change between the first 1000 and 2000 miles; give/take. I agree with above, any good engine builder will state the same. Then every 4-5k (whatever makes you feel good) or annually, whichever comes first. This assumes street driving only. I'd change more often when tracking.

For those changing their own for the first time. Keep in mind the dry sump holds around 7-8+ quarts. When you pull that plug it comes out like a waterfall. You should be doing this with the oil very warm/hot (not to the point of burning your hands or through your gloves, of course). I realize many here know this all too well. I only pass this along for the first timers and those who want some tips.

Be certain to use a wrench to secure the welded locknut on the bottom of the sump while breaking loose the sump's drain bolt. This may be different on the 991's 9A1, however, the Mezger's dry sump was as I describe. There are known cases where the sump cracked when not performed properly. Just a FYI.

Also get the proper crush washers for both drain bolts; sump and case/pan, as well as, o-rings for the filter canister (There used to be three, one large and two very small). IIRCC, the manual reads to let your oil drain for 20-30 mins. Keep in mind the techs will never do this as they are on the clock. If doing your own, the longer you let it drain, the better. I would change mine when I had hours to burn. Oh, and open the fill cap to let the oil inside drain easier. I may be crazy, but I'd even pour the first half of the quart and let it drain out to push as much old oil out. It may be a waste of $4.00, but who cares.

^ For what's it's worth.

doubleurx

I thought I read somewhere that there is new wording that if you don't follow extra protocol for track use, it could void, but not outright.

Mike?

SamFromTX

Not on the 991 but to get warranty if you drive on track, oil has to changed every 6,000 miles.

reidry

On my dedicated track car I change the oil every two to three track weekends depending on the number of sessions and duration of sessions. Some guys in the race groups change after every weekend. Running on the 12 hour course at Sebring that's 400 miles (1 weekend, practice, qualifying and 4 x 30 minute races) to 1100 miles (3 weekends, 4 x 30 minute sessions per day) on the oil.

I'd never wait 6000 miles on a car that visits the track, even if irregularly. I even cut my filters open and look for indications of an impending failure.

My question is what proof will Porsche require that you performed the service yourself. Are receipts for the consumables and a change log sufficient? What needs to be recorded in the change log besides date and mileage?

Ryan