Newbie CL question
#17
Rennlist Member
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Tools I purchased:
Breaker Bar (Amazon $55.47):
Torque Wrench (Amazon $328.50):
$131,000+ GT3 includes 1 CL socket.
This is a Precision Instruments 200'-600' FT/LB torque wrench. I'm 90% sure they make them for Snap-On at a much more attractive price point. I have two Snap-On torque wrenches 1/4" & 3/8". My 3/8" Snap-On looks identical to my 1/2" Precision Instruments except red vs. blue trim. The large 3/4" drive Precision Instruments (200'-600') breaks down into 3 pieces. The picture on Amazon is incorrect. If you take the model number and go to Precision Instruments website you'll see the correct representation.
http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/item...ckCode=C4D600F
It's a well built wrench at a great price, especially compared to a good torque multiplier. They come with a calibration certificate. On an other note, I took the wrenches to work to check the calibration, they pasted muster. Good enough for the FAA (states wrenches need to be certified each year), good enough for a Porsche.
Breaker Bar (Amazon $55.47):
Torque Wrench (Amazon $328.50):
$131,000+ GT3 includes 1 CL socket.
This is a Precision Instruments 200'-600' FT/LB torque wrench. I'm 90% sure they make them for Snap-On at a much more attractive price point. I have two Snap-On torque wrenches 1/4" & 3/8". My 3/8" Snap-On looks identical to my 1/2" Precision Instruments except red vs. blue trim. The large 3/4" drive Precision Instruments (200'-600') breaks down into 3 pieces. The picture on Amazon is incorrect. If you take the model number and go to Precision Instruments website you'll see the correct representation.
http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/item...ckCode=C4D600F
It's a well built wrench at a great price, especially compared to a good torque multiplier. They come with a calibration certificate. On an other note, I took the wrenches to work to check the calibration, they pasted muster. Good enough for the FAA (states wrenches need to be certified each year), good enough for a Porsche.
Last edited by HB Driver; 01-28-2014 at 04:25 AM.
#18
Rennlist Member
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So I talked to one of our A&Ps (Airframe/Powerplant) technicians and he stated Precision Instruments made spilt beam torque wrenches for Snap-On till 2002. The patent ran out, now CDI makes Snap-On torque wrenches. So I guess I stand corrected, if that is the truth. Anyway, at onetime they may have or may not have made wrenches for Snap-On.
It does't deter from the fact they are a quality product.
It does't deter from the fact they are a quality product.
#19
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I don't mess with the CLs. I don't change tires at the track - so have a great mechanic that looks after CLs. Almost all problems with CLs have been related to operator error.
#20
Three Wheelin'
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An alternative to the giant torque wrench is a torque multiplier. I purchased one from Proto tools. Unit multiplies torque by 6x. It works with my current 1/2" drive torque wrench.
While the manual requires the nuts to be torqued with the wheels off the ground I watched the 911 RSR mechanics get the nuts tight with car in the air and torque on the ground in the garages. This could have been just a confirmation that the air gun torque was sufficient as they do not use a torque wrench on pit lane.
Ryan
While the manual requires the nuts to be torqued with the wheels off the ground I watched the 911 RSR mechanics get the nuts tight with car in the air and torque on the ground in the garages. This could have been just a confirmation that the air gun torque was sufficient as they do not use a torque wrench on pit lane.
Ryan
#21
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An alternative to the giant torque wrench is a torque multiplier. I purchased one from Proto tools. Unit multiplies torque by 6x. It works with my current 1/2" drive torque wrench.
While the manual requires the nuts to be torqued with the wheels off the ground I watched the 911 RSR mechanics get the nuts tight with car in the air and torque on the ground in the garages. This could have been just a confirmation that the air gun torque was sufficient as they do not use a torque wrench on pit lane.
Ryan
While the manual requires the nuts to be torqued with the wheels off the ground I watched the 911 RSR mechanics get the nuts tight with car in the air and torque on the ground in the garages. This could have been just a confirmation that the air gun torque was sufficient as they do not use a torque wrench on pit lane.
Ryan
911rsr/motorsport cls are totally different than the marketing metal that Porsche puts on the gt/turbo, i wouldn't read much into how they are handled.
#22
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#23
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Changing Cl wheels is not a big deal as long as you do it correctly. And it really is not hard at all. Just because you take it to the dealer does not mean it was done correctly. They make mistakes too and consider that the tire and wheel guys there are many times the most junior in the shop.
I change out mine myself. Of course it really helps to have a lift! My recommendation would be to personally check the locking mechanism each time there is a wheel change regardless of who does it for you.
Walt
I change out mine myself. Of course it really helps to have a lift! My recommendation would be to personally check the locking mechanism each time there is a wheel change regardless of who does it for you.
Walt
#24
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Changing Cl wheels is not a big deal as long as you do it correctly. And it really is not hard at all. Just because you take it to the dealer does not mean it was done correctly. They make mistakes too and consider that the tire and wheel guys there are many times the most junior in the shop. I change out mine myself. Of course it really helps to have a lift! My recommendation would be to personally check the locking mechanism each time there is a wheel change regardless of who does it for you. Walt
#25
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The benefit of having the dealer do the work is they have the responsibility should the CL's fail. Do it on your own and you are holding the bag.
#26
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Changing Cl wheels is not a big deal as long as you do it correctly. And it really is not hard at all. Just because you take it to the dealer does not mean it was done correctly. They make mistakes too and consider that the tire and wheel guys there are many times the most junior in the shop.
#27
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If you drive on the street, at least be aware of the process and maybe have the dealer do it in front of you to make sure it's done right on your car. The process is pretty silly when you step back from it, and I can imagine your average tech thinking so, and just waving off any precautions and doing what they think is good enough - which is to treat it like one big lug nut.
If you track, you are crazy for not being intimate with the process - not to mention you need to re-torque the wheels every morning. If you have track support sitting next to you the whole time, maybe no need to worry about it...
#28
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[QUOTE=ShakeNBake;11086723]
If you track, you are crazy for not being intimate with the process - not to mention you need to re-torque the wheels every morning. QUOTE]
Is it OK to re-torque at the track side without lifting the car? I assume the nut is seated enough that it should be OK but am intereted in opinions.
If you track, you are crazy for not being intimate with the process - not to mention you need to re-torque the wheels every morning. QUOTE]
Is it OK to re-torque at the track side without lifting the car? I assume the nut is seated enough that it should be OK but am intereted in opinions.
#29
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the benefit of doing it yourself is knowing it was done right. If you care about yourself and your car it would be wise to know the procedure so you can at a minimum know that whoever you paid to do it knows. See shakeandbake's post.
#30
Race Director
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But I want to know enough about the process of changing the CLs to know when it's been done properly either for service or in an emergency, be able to remove a wheel to detail, bleed brakes, etc., as well as being as familiar with all aspects of the car as is practical.