911rox

Yep, they are good... When not, they end up stopping 4-5mm short of where they are now and require a left/right twist to pop out...

HB Driver

Tools I purchased:

Breaker Bar (Amazon $55.47):
Torque Wrench (Amazon $328.50):

$131,000+ GT3 includes 1 CL socket.

This is a Precision Instruments 200'-600' FT/LB torque wrench. I'm 90% sure they make them for Snap-On at a much more attractive price point. I have two Snap-On torque wrenches 1/4" & 3/8". My 3/8" Snap-On looks identical to my 1/2" Precision Instruments except red vs. blue trim. The large 3/4" drive Precision Instruments (200'-600') breaks down into 3 pieces. The picture on Amazon is incorrect. If you take the model number and go to Precision Instruments website you'll see the correct representation.

http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/item...ckCode=C4D600F

It's a well built wrench at a great price, especially compared to a good torque multiplier. They come with a calibration certificate. On an other note, I took the wrenches to work to check the calibration, they pasted muster. Good enough for the FAA (states wrenches need to be certified each year), good enough for a Porsche.

HB Driver

So I talked to one of our A&Ps (Airframe/Powerplant) technicians and he stated Precision Instruments made spilt beam torque wrenches for Snap-On till 2002. The patent ran out, now CDI makes Snap-On torque wrenches. So I guess I stand corrected, if that is the truth. Anyway, at onetime they may have or may not have made wrenches for Snap-On.

It does't deter from the fact they are a quality product.

brake dust

I don't mess with the CLs. I don't change tires at the track - so have a great mechanic that looks after CLs. Almost all problems with CLs have been related to operator error.

reidry

An alternative to the giant torque wrench is a torque multiplier. I purchased one from Proto tools. Unit multiplies torque by 6x. It works with my current 1/2" drive torque wrench.

While the manual requires the nuts to be torqued with the wheels off the ground I watched the 911 RSR mechanics get the nuts tight with car in the air and torque on the ground in the garages. This could have been just a confirmation that the air gun torque was sufficient as they do not use a torque wrench on pit lane.

Ryan

ShakeNBake

I've been using a snap-on multiplier, it seems to work very well - though there is some amount of error introduced.

911rsr/motorsport cls are totally different than the marketing metal that Porsche puts on the gt/turbo, i wouldn't read much into how they are handled.

Nick

Mike, this is sound advice. I plan to have my dealer do all the work on the CL's. Better safe than sorry.

WaltB

Changing Cl wheels is not a big deal as long as you do it correctly. And it really is not hard at all. Just because you take it to the dealer does not mean it was done correctly. They make mistakes too and consider that the tire and wheel guys there are many times the most junior in the shop.

I change out mine myself. Of course it really helps to have a lift! My recommendation would be to personally check the locking mechanism each time there is a wheel change regardless of who does it for you.

Walt

paver

Exactly! Very good advice. If you are gonna let the dealer do it for you you should still know the procedure and ask them enough questions to make sure they know it.

Nick

The benefit of having the dealer do the work is they have the responsibility should the CL's fail. Do it on your own and you are holding the bag.

brake dust

That's why I have one master mechanic that does all the work on my car!

ShakeNBake

I would not rely on the dealer, they have yet to do mine correctly when doing any tire work - I think the Austin shop does not use techs for tire work. Both times they have touched my tires, they have totally messed up the CL process. Once was so bad, I had them flat bed the car back to the dealer to make sure there was no damage. I could turn the nut with my hand when I got home. They were very embarrassed the first time, but it happened again.

If you drive on the street, at least be aware of the process and maybe have the dealer do it in front of you to make sure it's done right on your car. The process is pretty silly when you step back from it, and I can imagine your average tech thinking so, and just waving off any precautions and doing what they think is good enough - which is to treat it like one big lug nut.

If you track, you are crazy for not being intimate with the process - not to mention you need to re-torque the wheels every morning. If you have track support sitting next to you the whole time, maybe no need to worry about it...

SamFromTX

[QUOTE=ShakeNBake;11086723]

If you track, you are crazy for not being intimate with the process - not to mention you need to re-torque the wheels every morning. QUOTE]

Is it OK to re-torque at the track side without lifting the car? I assume the nut is seated enough that it should be OK but am intereted in opinions.

paver

the benefit of doing it yourself is knowing it was done right. If you care about yourself and your car it would be wise to know the procedure so you can at a minimum know that whoever you paid to do it knows. See shakeandbake's post.

Mike in CA

The above is where I'm coming from on this. Unlike in the past when I had a separate set of wheels/tires for autocross, I'm trying to simplify my life at this point and just run street tires, so I won't be changing wheels all the time.

But I want to know enough about the process of changing the CLs to know when it's been done properly either for service or in an emergency, be able to remove a wheel to detail, bleed brakes, etc., as well as being as familiar with all aspects of the car as is practical.