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Is that something you felt on track? vs all stock?
Originally Posted by JCviggen
While track and driving style dependent, I'm pretty sure that you'll find it tending towards understeer at higher speeds even with 10 deg. I don't have canards but run the cup front lip on my .2 together with lower cup fender liner/tunnels which do meaningfully increase front DF. But my experience was on the Ring where there's loads of corners between 100-160 MPH.
There's this video on YT with Jackie Ding driving a car with Verus aero and he had it set to 4 or 5 degrees even with the Verus splitter on.
Easy to experiment with at the track obviously. The low angle risers go all the way up to 9 degrees so I do think that's the most useful one to have on.
I remember seeing the video. I thought they were at 10 for some reason.
So on my car I have the Cup liner, gt4rs strakes, RS lip and Dundon canards. Thats probably why it works for me. I didnt mention that, but you are right about wing angle juggling outside of the mods I just mentioned.
Originally Posted by 9914s
What tuning software are you using?
I use an Autotuner tool and HPT.
Originally Posted by Cay_PI
But does it pull timing with 93 octane gas? E85 doesn't make more power per se?!? or does it? I would expect power gains coming from more timing (way more than 0.5deg difference) and/or running lean mixture. If you didn't change mixture and just added 0.5 deg timing... that power gain would by way higher than realistic.
I did get some knock on 93 when making 445whp, it was not much and I was not relying on timing retard to figure it out. The mixture was right on and I didnt add more timing cause I felt the timing advance is quite high. Im sure for a kill mode I can add some more, but this isnt that type of car.
The timing logic of the Bosch is quite nice. So the way I have it set is just right. And the car will still retard timing when hot like normal. So i dont have to worry about changing conditions.
Regarding the Air Filter housing...
What parts are more narrow in the touring part? Is it 7/8 or 20?
I think if the pressure loss of that box is there, airflow will not help. If something is too narrow when the car sits, it will even more limit airflow when there is a RAM effect.
Regarding the Air Filter housing...
What parts are more narrow in the touring part? Is it 7/8 or 20?
I think if the pressure loss of that box is there, airflow will not help. If something is too narrow when the car sits, it will even more limit airflow when there is a RAM effect.
#2 and 3. 6 and 7 are smaller as well, but I dont think thats where the major difference would be.
Hm, the whole box is smaller but I thought the bigger filter surface and better aerodynamics are worth more than just size. Disappointing.
Do you still have it on your car?
Would be interesting to know how it performs when its open (no rear bumper, no rear cover, so that the filters can breath freely.
Hm, the whole box is smaller but I thought the bigger filter surface and better aerodynamics are worth more than just size. Disappointing.
Do you still have it on your car?
Would be interesting to know how it performs when its open (no rear bumper, no rear cover, so that the filters can breath freely.
The test IMO would have to be (if looking for dyno number comparison) would be to do pulls with both intakes with air forced into the inlet.
It shouldnt make a difference. Pressure loss from throttle body to inlet is given by the box design. The higher the airflow, the higher the penaltiy for the worse box. It should be even bigger gap between the box when air is forced into it because the box with the weaker airflow will lose more of the overpressure given at the inlet.
I can not believe a 10hp difference, thats so much for a filter box... would mean the toruing box is rubbish. Could be any other factor involved? Like sucking in warm air?
How can I go about running E85 on a 991.1 GT3? Is there something I'm missing in terms of drawbacks? It's MUCH cheaper here in California and would make the car faster...
