Gauss

I would like to buy tools to remove the wheels because I want to ceramic seal them. Instead of buying a breaker bar and a torque wrench (e.g. this HAZET), the idea came to me to buy a torque multiplier (e.g. this GEDORE), because I already have a torque wrench up to 200 Nm. Does that make sense, or is it too imprecise? According to Porsche, the wheels may be tightened with a tolerance of 5%.

DiscoWagon

Super happy with the Renntorq, it truly makes it a one man job. I previously had the Precision Instruments torque wrench which made me dread changing wheels.

dbv1

That multiplier you linked to could mar your wheels because the reaction arm isn’t coated, if you’re going to brace it against the wheel.

Using a multiplier makes life easier. We’re fans of the Renntorq multiplier here but the manufacturer says it shouldn’t be used as a breaker so if you go that route, you’ll need a breaker bar. But those are cheap by comparison.

74goldtarga

I used a Neiko Pro multiplier this season. Obviously the error in the multiplier is added to the error of the torque wrench multiplied. My reaction arm is a pipe against the ground. I don't love it even though it seems to work fine just because the front wheels tend to turn (steer) and rotate when you are trying to break the centerlock loose. So it works but it's not ideal. I like the look of that Gedore if you can get a reaction arm setup that won't damage the wheels. I am a cheapskate but think maybe I should have just ordered a Renntorq when I purchased the car. This is the first I've heard that you aren't supposed to use it to break the nuts loose and if that's the case it reduces it's potential value to me significantly.

GT325

According to the John the man behind Renntorq who happens to be a fantastic guy you can use the Renntorq to remove the center locks BUT you are not to exceed 155lb-ft on the input. So if your nut is really stuck then you will have to use a breaker bar but 155 is a fair amount of juice.

Brainofjjj

Used my Renntorq tonight to swap wheels. It’s an amazing device and worth every penny.

Gauss

Problem with Renntorq is that I live in Europe and servicing or calibrating will be difficult.
The torque multiplier from Gedore looks like a similar device with higher torque rating than Renntorq but without the load arm. I could extend and pad the one from Gedore so that the wheels don't get damaged.

Indyxc

I bought this torque multiplier (better than Neiko), with a torque wrench.

I bought a Neiko torque adapter to cross check me torque wrench against the click wrench + torque multiplier. 116-ft-lbs on the torque wrench x 4 (464 ft lbs) while 444 ft-lbs on the inline wrench. Minor loss.

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/produ...MaAgQGEALw_wcB

Indyxc

Gauss

Problem with the above is that you need to mount (remove and install) the wheels in the air, not on the ground, and when you do, then your torque wrench will lift the car further up and it might fall off the jack.

marcus1982

That's a joke I guess .Imagine you lifting 50% of the car, aprox 750kg. Unless you are Hulk i think you are fine. Why 50%? When you lifting the car from the rear the front also leaves the ground.On a 1m bar, braking 600Nm would mean lifting 60kg.
just to be sure, you can slightly lower the car so the suspension is slightly loaded until you break the nut loose.

There are some videos on youtube from Matt@obseseed garage doing this.

Gauss

I wouldn't trust it. My concerns arise from having watched these videos : and this from Obsessed Garage:

johnsopa

@Indyxc -- How do you setup for tightening the front wheel? Does the wheel try to turn left or right depending on the side as you tighten?

I like your setup. I used the torque multiplier a few times but with a long pipe extension.

marcus1982

@Gauss Indeed, in the OG video I don't think the parking brake was on, as you see the car tends to move forward when he tries to loosen the nut, as the differential spins the other wheel in the opposite direction. That indeed can be dangerous. But common sense suggests you should use wheel chock on the diagonally opposed wheel and use the parking brake or break pedal depressor tool or someone stumping on the break.

Indyxc

To tighten:
Rear- Set the parking break. For front, you need someone to hold the brake.

To loosen- I cracked them open on the ground, then raise.

With the torque multiplier it made a job where you are feeling like the long breaker bar is going to snap, vs it loosens fairly easily.

Listen, if I was a mega millionaire I'd buy the rentorque or Hytorc and be done with it. I am not, so I bought a used torque multiplier ($170 on ebay), and used and old harbor freight torque wrench ($30).