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The autoblocking of the steerig wheel is not ok to use? You take out the key from ignition and the steering column is locked. Or is there a risk of braking it?
I was in the same situation like many of you, however will recommend to buy a Hytorc and will never regret it!
I know is expensive, but once you start using it you will like it a LOT!
I am not familiar with the product Renntorq, so don't take my word for it, but it seems that the torque multiplier is from the brand Norbar, and they all have a tolerance of 4% (www.norbar.com).
If you use this Renntorq in conjunction with a torque wrench of 3%, you have an error of almost 7%, while Porsche specifies an error of no more than 5%!
I'm happy to be proven wrong.
I am not familiar with the product Renntorq, so don't take my word for it, but it seems that the torque multiplier is from the brand Norbar, and they all have a tolerance of 4% (www.norbar.com).
If you use this Renntorq in conjunction with a torque wrench of 3%, you have an error of almost 7%, while Porsche specifies an error of no more than 5%!
I'm happy to be proven wrong.
Quality torque wrenches include the calibration test results for your specific wrench. I’ve not seen a good quality torque wrench be off by more than +\- 1.5 ft/lbs at that setting. Eg ~1%.
Personally I wouldn’t use a torque wrench that tests worse than that anyway. Certainly not 3%.
Personally I wouldn’t use a torque wrench that tests worse than that anyway. Certainly not 3%.
We are talking very high torque wheel nuts, not engine internals like bearing caps... High single digit accuracy is more than enough, not to mention that better torque multipliers will come with a correction sheet so you can dial out most of the error. You can also use a fairly inexpensive digital torque gauge and dial in *exactly* what you need to set the input torque wrench at to get exactly 450 out.
Buy a $2,400 specialized torque multiplier if it makes you happy, but it's definitely not needed. This is the one I've used for many years now with perfect results.
We are talking very high torque wheel nuts, not engine internals like bearing caps... High single digit accuracy is more than enough, not to mention that better torque multipliers will come with a correction sheet so you can dial out most of the error. You can also use a fairly inexpensive digital torque gauge and dial in *exactly* what you need to set the input torque wrench at to get exactly 450 out.
Buy a $2,400 specialized torque multiplier if it makes you happy, but it's definitely not needed. This is the one I've used for many years now with perfect results.
Either you misunderstood the intent of my post or I’m misunderstanding the intent of yours.
im not advocating for $2400 torque multipliers at all. In fact the opposite.
Just received the hazet system 5000 5145-3CT wrench from OP link, comes with a calibration certificate. Max deviation allowed is +-3%.
I've set it to 500Nm to get a feel of how hard it is, not very hard actually. We'll see when I will actually use it(at 600) , I don't have yet the optimol paste for the CL nut. Have a braker bar for loosening
Actual values below.
I have used the Stanley Proto, which is a great unit. Since I no longer has a use for it, let me know if you are interested in purchasing it. This unit is a 6:1 ratio with 1200 ft lbs maximum. I also have an extra output part that I picked up as a spare. PM if interested.
12-28-2023, 11:50 PM
