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991.2 GT3 RS alignment

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Old 06-20-2023, 06:31 PM
  #16  
Ecosse911
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Factory alignment worked well for me and the car was very neutral and predictable. I think that’s probably a key attribute from the factory to ensure the best driver experience over a broad spectrum of capability. I changed my alignment as I was wearing the outsides and also I wanted to experience a different setup. Seeing as you’re new to the car I would leave stock and then mod as needed as you get more comfortable.

In my case I ran a personal best with the new alignment however it was also on my first set of new tires.
Old 06-21-2023, 10:42 AM
  #17  
Skid
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Originally Posted by Manifold
Owners manual is quite clear that factory alignment is good for the track. I found that to be the case with the 991.1 GT3. So I asked the dealer to set it up per factory specs and I’ll give that a try. I want to see how the factory setup feels. Will increase cambers if there’s an issue with tire wear.
For the most part owners’ manuals are written by lawyers. OEM specs work ok for up to 90% track effort and hence its good CYA practice to make that statement in the book. But OEM specs driven hard will totally roast your outside shoulders. Extracting last 10% of track performance drives the tires and chassis to a different level. The specs posters are showing here (generally -2.8F/-2.4R camber, zero toe F/.15*R area) are a good universal ballpark for those running top times in advanced DE groups in _all_ .1/.2 GT3 & 3RS cars with Cup2/AR-1type tires and stock springs. Going to R7’s and their ilk and using them fully is going to take it all to yet another level, -3 area camber, springs & shocks all around, more solid bushings, etc. It’s definitely a progression, and you need to be conscious of where you are on that slippery slope of capability and commitment vs $$ and outcomes. I try to stay aware of what the weak link is in the car re lap times and where $$ should be spent next, and then whether I feel like it. Right now I’m focussed on the equipment inside the helmet and bringing that up to snuff in what is an amazing car in still largely OEM form.
Old 06-21-2023, 11:12 AM
  #18  
Manifold
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Originally Posted by Skid
For the most part owners’ manuals are written by lawyers. OEM specs work ok for up to 90% track effort and hence its good CYA practice to make that statement in the book. But OEM specs driven hard will totally roast your outside shoulders. Extracting last 10% of track performance drives the tires and chassis to a different level. The specs posters are showing here (generally -2.8F/-2.4R camber, zero toe F/.15*R area) are a good universal ballpark for those running top times in advanced DE groups in _all_ .1/.2 GT3 & 3RS cars with Cup2/AR-1type tires and stock springs. Going to R7’s and their ilk and using them fully is going to take it all to yet another level, -3 area camber, springs & shocks all around, more solid bushings, etc. It’s definitely a progression, and you need to be conscious of where you are on that slippery slope of capability and commitment vs $$ and outcomes. I try to stay aware of what the weak link is in the car re lap times and where $$ should be spent next, and then whether I feel like it. Right now I’m focussed on the equipment inside the helmet and bringing that up to snuff in what is an amazing car in still largely OEM form.
I'll likely wind up adding some camber based on the tire wear, but I want to first experience the car as it comes from the factory. I had my 991.1 GT3 set up by TPC according to their recommended setup, and they didn't wind up increasing the cambers much, they said the setup from the factory is already pretty optimized.
Old 06-21-2023, 02:22 PM
  #19  
Wind911
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CUP2/SMR2/AR1/CRS
-2.5 Camber F&R
Not to exceed stock caster or might eat wheel liner.
0 toe front
4mm total toe rear

Slicks, Hoosiers, Cup2R much more camber



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