Brake feel of 991.2 GT3 RS with PCCB
#31
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About RSC pads
RSC1 : slightly better than OEM, OK for track use but if you track hard you will overheat them and get holes at the surface.
RSC2 : not design to work with our kind of ceramic discs (there is 2 types of ceramic discs)
RSC3 : Better for track use, will handle more heat, has more friction, won't fall apart ;-)
I destroyed some RSC1, now I have RSC3 and so far happy with them.
Next pads are going to be RSL1
RSC3 and RSL1 will wear discs quicker.
RSC1 : slightly better than OEM, OK for track use but if you track hard you will overheat them and get holes at the surface.
RSC2 : not design to work with our kind of ceramic discs (there is 2 types of ceramic discs)
RSC3 : Better for track use, will handle more heat, has more friction, won't fall apart ;-)
I destroyed some RSC1, now I have RSC3 and so far happy with them.
Next pads are going to be RSL1
RSC3 and RSL1 will wear discs quicker.
__________________
-Rick
HINZ MOTORSPORT
Race Parts & Accessories for your PORSCHE
www.HinzMotorsport.com
Call: 414-212-5679
Email: rick@hinzmotorsport.com
-Rick
HINZ MOTORSPORT
Race Parts & Accessories for your PORSCHE
www.HinzMotorsport.com
Call: 414-212-5679
Email: rick@hinzmotorsport.com
#32
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I had a look at the brake pads in the car.
Rear pads appear to be OEM and made by Pagid. They're pretty thick and look to be in decent condition,
The front pads are also Pagid (part number 25565 185 G39) but aren't stamped with the Porsche symbol to indicate that they're OEM. The thickness of the pads is decent, but the surface has some cracking and possibly some glazing - maybe they were overheated?
I see that Pagid has three formulations of pads specifically CCB: RSC 1, RSC 2, and RSC 3:
https://www.pagidracing.com/en/produ...amily-rsc.html
Do any of you know whether one of these formulations corresponds to the OEM pads?
Rear pads appear to be OEM and made by Pagid. They're pretty thick and look to be in decent condition,
The front pads are also Pagid (part number 25565 185 G39) but aren't stamped with the Porsche symbol to indicate that they're OEM. The thickness of the pads is decent, but the surface has some cracking and possibly some glazing - maybe they were overheated?
I see that Pagid has three formulations of pads specifically CCB: RSC 1, RSC 2, and RSC 3:
https://www.pagidracing.com/en/produ...amily-rsc.html
Do any of you know whether one of these formulations corresponds to the OEM pads?
#33
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I had a look at the brake pads in the car.
Rear pads appear to be OEM and made by Pagid. They're pretty thick and look to be in decent condition,
The front pads are also Pagid (part number 25565 185 G39) but aren't stamped with the Porsche symbol to indicate that they're OEM. The thickness of the pads is decent, but the surface has some cracking and possibly some glazing - maybe they were overheated?
I see that Pagid has three formulations of pads specifically CCB: RSC 1, RSC 2, and RSC 3:
https://www.pagidracing.com/en/produ...amily-rsc.html
Do any of you know whether one of these formulations corresponds to the OEM pads?
Rear pads appear to be OEM and made by Pagid. They're pretty thick and look to be in decent condition,
The front pads are also Pagid (part number 25565 185 G39) but aren't stamped with the Porsche symbol to indicate that they're OEM. The thickness of the pads is decent, but the surface has some cracking and possibly some glazing - maybe they were overheated?
I see that Pagid has three formulations of pads specifically CCB: RSC 1, RSC 2, and RSC 3:
https://www.pagidracing.com/en/produ...amily-rsc.html
Do any of you know whether one of these formulations corresponds to the OEM pads?
I too thought the bite of my PCCB's that I bought take off, were not as good as my steels. I have new OEM pads and the rotors are in good shape except for what seems to be a small layer of pad deposits that is slowly wearing away. My guess for what is going on with the 'bite' you mention and what I have is that the PCCB's were tracked a few times with non-OEM pads, the rotors have some pad material on the surface, which then effects the bite with new OEM pads. Now, bedding in the pads should clear that up quickly, but if you read up on the bedding in procedure for PCCB's it is quite intense, and while I have tried it, I always run out of road to do it safely. Just my .02, try the bedding in process and see if it doesn't help.
In my case the bite has returned to close to what I felt with steels, but not high bite that I have and had with other ceramics like those on my C7 Corvette, and now with my Audi RS6 (which are massively large, LOL!!). Surprisingly the bedding in process caused quite a bit of brake dust, but now that is abating too as the wear in.
Good luck!
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Manifold (06-17-2023)
#34
Drifting
I tracked a ton with my RS and PCCBs. Stock pads were the best for my needs. They lasted about 12K-15K miles before I replaced (with OEM again). Yes, the PCCBs will make all kinds of noise (scraping, crunching) right after a car wash. But that goes away in about 5 minutes with some heavy braking. You need pad material transfer to the rotor surface and once that happens, they bite hard and are super quiet. If you look at the PCCB rotor and they are shiny and clean like a mirror, that's BAD. After a heavy driving session where you are really laying into them (as you should), the surface will be cloudy with some hazy white material from the pads transferred onto their surface. THIS IS GOOD. The PCCBs will bite quicker, wear slower, and be noise free. Any time you wash the car, this material gets washed off and your rotors will squeak and crunch and it will sound horrible. Just gotta brake hard a few times and it'll go away.
As far as pedal travel goes, that's all in how thick the pads are and break fluid age. As the pads and fluid wear, it requires more pedal travel, which is normal.
It's also possible there's a pebble or other debris stuck to the pad, causing noise. I would simply drive the crap out of the car for two hours on some back roads and see what happens. You need to be actually driving the car, not just putzing around town.
As far as which OEM pads, Porsche made a change recently to adhere to new guidelines for copper content. The older pads are better. Newer pads (used on 992) aren't as good. There are many threads about this.
As far as pedal travel goes, that's all in how thick the pads are and break fluid age. As the pads and fluid wear, it requires more pedal travel, which is normal.
It's also possible there's a pebble or other debris stuck to the pad, causing noise. I would simply drive the crap out of the car for two hours on some back roads and see what happens. You need to be actually driving the car, not just putzing around town.
As far as which OEM pads, Porsche made a change recently to adhere to new guidelines for copper content. The older pads are better. Newer pads (used on 992) aren't as good. There are many threads about this.
Last edited by FourT6and2; 06-17-2023 at 03:27 PM.
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#35
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@FourT6and2
Did you get your PCCB measured with the carbotech tool before replacement? What were the reading that prompted you to replace?
Did you get your PCCB measured with the carbotech tool before replacement? What were the reading that prompted you to replace?
Last edited by Thrownaway; 06-17-2023 at 04:55 PM.
#36
Drifting
@FourT6and2
Did you get your PCCB measured with the carbotech tool before replacement? What were the reading that prompted you to replace?
Did you get your PCCB measured with the carbotech tool before replacement? What were the reading that prompted you to replace?
#37
991.2 vehicles with PCCB do not have a wear mark indicator embedded in the rotor anymore. The only way to get an accurate reading regarding the condition of the rotors is by going to the dealer and getting a reading via the carboteq tool.
#38
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I thought the wear indicator is for surface wear, whereas the Carboteq tool measures the carbon content in the rotor. My understanding is that, as the rotor loses carbon due to oxidation (from heat), it becomes structurally weaker, but the braking performance shouldn't change as the carbon content decreases (assuming the rotor doesn't fail due to fracture).
#40
Drifting
The only thing missing from that video is that the rotors need to be off the car for the most accurate measurement.
#41
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#42
(sorry if my english is not perfect, I am french)
#43
Drifting
Other metal surfaces and external electromagnetic fields can interfere with the reading. The literature that comes with the tool even states it, however most shops (dealers) who have the tool don't bother because hey... it's a business and they don't want to have to disassemble the calipers/rotor/etc. There's a good thread here somewhere where someone compared readings on/off the car too. Big difference.
Last edited by FourT6and2; 06-18-2023 at 02:08 PM.
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Manifold (06-18-2023)
#44
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#45
Drifting
It's called marketing. That video is 7 years old. When you purchase one of these tools, there's a piece of paper inside that has updated the procedure. Says something like for most accurate and consistent results, rotors should be removed from vehicle and measured on a non-metallic surface. Some techs will remove the rotor but place them on their metal work bench, defeating the purpose...
Last edited by FourT6and2; 06-18-2023 at 02:14 PM.
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Manifold (06-18-2023)