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This is what every other oil change looks like in my garage - Rear diff drain and flush, PDK drain and flush. It is helpful to have the free lifetime replacement of fluids from FCP Euro, my average oil change interval is about 2K miles.
This is what every other oil change looks like in my garage - Rear diff drain and flush, PDK drain and flush. It is helpful to have the free lifetime replacement of fluids from FCP Euro, my average oil change interval is about 2K miles.
When you're doing these changes, especially on the PDK, can you confirm you don't need to do pdk fill mode?
I've read conflicting reports on fill mode, or calibration mode. Is it required if you're draining the pdk oil and changing the plan?
I am at 9500 miles, and plan to change the pdk oil and diff oil at 10k with an oil change.
I did not notice any difference in diff noise at low speed, low rpm, less than 2k rpm. You know, that disturbing(but apparently normal) grinding noise. I was actually hoping it will go away or be less disturbing, but no.
I made an amateur video of the process, both pdk and diff if someone interested.
When you're doing these changes, especially on the PDK, can you confirm you don't need to do pdk fill mode?
I've read conflicting reports on fill mode, or calibration mode. Is it required if you're draining the pdk oil and changing the plan?
I am at 9500 miles, and plan to change the pdk oil and diff oil at 10k with an oil change.
Thanks
For changing the PDK clutch fluid (not the transmission / diff oil), I bought an Autel MX900 specifically for the job - figured I'd use it for other services as well. After changing the pan and re-filling the PDK with clutch fluid, I was able to get roughly 3.5L of fluid in. With fill mode activated and the transmission up to temp, I was able to get another ~0.25L in before fluid started seeping out. The pan itself definitely had more sludge than I was expecting with only 11k miles on it. I'll probably service it more frequently (at least fluid changes, if not the pan itself) going forward for that reason. Before doing the job, I read all the "use fill mode vs. no it's not necessary" posts / videos and ultimately decided to do it by the book.
I did it without and I managed to put back exactly the same as I drained.
This guy here proves it, at least convinced me that fill mode is not needed if you are just replacing the fluid. Please note that after you fill the pdk younhave to start the engine and in that moment the oil pump starts circulating the oil and YES, you can add again fluid until starts pooring out again and with the engine still running you put the fill plug.
https://youtu.be/ZdAGaTWNn5o?si=_DSr3J33XAJ7GoYX
Did you do it like this: engine off, fill up, start engine, fill agfin and ONLY then start the piwis fill mode and you could add again fluid?
Last edited by marcus1982; 03-19-2024 at 02:06 PM.
I did it without and I managed to put back exactly the same as I drained.
This guy here proves it, at least convinced me that fill mode is not needed if you are just replacing the fluid. Please note that after you fill the pdk younhave to start the engine and in that moment the oil pump starts circulating the oil and YES, you can add again fluid until starts pooring out again and with the engine still running you put the fill plug.
Did you do it like this: engine off, fill up, start engine, fill agfin and ONLY then start the piwis fill mode and you could add again fluid?
It's possible that just the engine start is what allowed for additional fill. I watched that video as well and personally wouldn't have sweated it much doing it without a tool, but I had the tool available so did it by the book to be sure. In any event, it wasn't a difficult DIY.
When you're doing these changes, especially on the PDK, can you confirm you don't need to do pdk fill mode?
I've read conflicting reports on fill mode, or calibration mode. Is it required if you're draining the pdk oil and changing the plan?
I am at 9500 miles, and plan to change the pdk oil and diff oil at 10k with an oil change.
Thanks
On the Trans/PDK: The only reason you would need the PIWIS is if you want to cycle and drain all the transmission pumps/actuators. I do a drain and refill I only take out 3 quarts (which I measure every time) and refill with 3 quarts. The trans has a 6 quart capacity. I am replacing half the fluid each time but I do it often.
On the rear Diff: Again I measure what I drain but on this I drain nearly all the capacity so no problems here.
I will ask my friend who has a you tube channel to fix this next time. His channel is HelpmeDIY - we are filing a series on building a 4.0 997 engine currently.
nice one 👍🏼 what I realised when I did mine was that I did not let the car idle in 1st gear and do a refill after. Could that be an issue though of not enough oil?
Did this to my 991.1 GT3 today, massive difference in the way the car drives. My car has 102K miles, I am unsure when the diff fluid was last changed, clutch fluid was done between 85-90K. There was a visible color difference in the new vs old fluid - same smell however. The old fluid did look to have more viscosity to it.
Biggest change was a notchiness that I experienced when downshifting into 1st while coming to a stop, it has disappeared entirely. Drivetrain noise is reduced as well. If I had to describe it, prior to the drain and fill, the diff was having trouble keeping up with the PDK, now they are in sync.
I used Driven GL5 75w90 - 3 qts came out of both drain plugs. Filled it up until it was seeping. Turned on the car and put it in 1st and let the wheels spin in the air for 2 minutes, shut her down and let it sit for 10 then topped it off. Exactly 3 qts total went back in.
Very happy with what $60 and a couple hours of work can do.
03-15-2024, 10:58 PM
