Congrats on the GT2...they offer an other worldly driving experience. As to tuning, I am keeping mine OEM for the near future (mine is a 2019 so two more years of warranty) and as of my thinking now I may keep her OEM for as long as I own her. But if I was going to start making H.P. upgrades, the first thing I would start with is the CSF/PWR intercoolers and as BBi has built packages around them they would be on the top of my list when I started doing serious due diligence. As others have said if you are looking for track time improvements I think the upgraded intercoolers would still be my first upgrade but after that upgraded suspension and aero upgrades, and braking (SS lines and track pads) would be where to look...or realistically for most of us, professional driving instruction. The full Manthey Racing MR kit is ~ $83K without the MR BBS magnesium wheels.
CSF by PWR High Performance Porsche 991 GT2 RS Intercooler System - CSF Racing (csfrace.com)

 

The Manthey kit can be had for much much cheaper, likewise the intercoolers... no real world testing beyond marketing.

 

+1 on this.

I would talk to Manthey Racing.

 

Any recommendations on IC? I live in Texas and it will be HOT at the track.

--nevermind - didn't see the link. Much appreciated.

 

Let me know how that works out for you....including VAT, and installation in America.

 

No VAT on sales out of the EU... landed, in US, cost is much less than mentioned but there is installation costs and painting. Extremely expensive for what u get and as my Manthey friends tell me most of that cost is in the "official setup" which you would be lacking if you threw on yourself. That said, these are bolt on parts, nothing crazy. Huge increase in downforce and mechanical grip though, car is a lot safer and more capable.

Another option people have employed is sending their car out to countries where Manthey sells and shipping it back.

 

Does anyone have the OEM spec for Camber/Toe/Ride Height on a 991.2 GT2RS? Looking to start a track setup log

 

I did this to my GT2RS:

- Front underbody clubsport (same as MR)
- KW competition 4way MR
- Front tension arms E-Motion engineering
- Underbody streaks from E-Motion (not convinced of their effectiveness)
- Front Clubsport canards
- PFC full brake system front and rear from Levitas
- 19” Forgeline wheels with my specified custom offset
- Pirelli slicks
- Rear Clubsport wing, side plates and uprights (need some work to fit the lid, you need the rear Clubsport carbon bracket also $$)
- Clubsport SRO kit
- Custom modified rear diffuser reversible to stock
- 200 cell cats
- Custom tunes from Sambo & M Engineering, several iterations and testing for my specific needs were required. All mild tunes

Getting alignment, ride height and shocks (compression/rebound) dialed in exactly for my needs was painful but is perfect now. MR settings are a good base but of course they don’t work for all the tracks, you will need to fine tune.

All the above is fully reversible, done it twice already in and off season.

Feedback..

My lap times with stock wheels and Cup2R were very similar, might be my driving but I wouldn’t do slicks and 19” and cost associated with them.

Clubsport rear wing induces very high drag (I measured including front underbody and rear modified diffuser the following:

Clubsport Cd: ~52
Stock: ~36,
MR: ~42-44 including their rear wheel hub covers

If you run on tracks with fast straights I wouldn’t do it, aero drag offsets gains in downforce.

Lap times with stock wing were faster on two F1 tracks, my modeling and simulations also confirmed it. I took out the CS rear wing and it’s in storage now.

Best bang for the money from my own experience is:

1- Custom tune
2- Tension arms
3- Rear modified diffuser (<100 Usd)
4- Front underbody Clubsport
5- Suspension
6- Brakes

Similar setup in good hands was faster than all the GT2RS MR cars

 

Let me know more pls

Tune - even if I dont plan for it now how is it? How much boost? Advance timing? 100-200.. etc
Tension arms - what are they good for?
rear modified difffuser mod - what is that exactly? do I need more front DF to compensate, like maybe CS front?
the rest I guess is quite clear to me


To answer the topic, even I thought to be doing more modifictions, I am still on a mild setup.
Here are my mods so far:

- MR OEM suspension upgrade - it seems some secret sauce added to the front uprights and shims on all 4 corners. I added MR allignement, rake adjustement etc to compliment the hardware add-ons
- MR water tank extension
- MR braided brake lines
- Girodisc 410/390 and PFC08 brake pads
- Maxxed aero front and rear - removed front wheels air guidances, front fender grills, rear wing in max attack
- Used cup2 n2, but having already 2 sets of Cup2R to try next
- I will upgrade 6 point harness to enduro version as they seem to be easier to engage/disengage

My car is a clubsport without WP, so maybe I will add the Ti rollbar and Magnesium wheels to shave 24kg or so

 

Jean, any idea what whp you're getting now? Or even flywheel?

 

The boost and timing depend on your tuner and their tuning philosophy, fuel used, AFRs etc. My tunes are up to 1.6-1.7 bar on race fuel mix, timing somewhere around 27-28 degrees I believe.

The 100-200 on my road and conditions dropped to 5:02s vs 5.47s for stock.
The tension arms make it easier to setup the Caster, I also think they help the geometry overall. I got them from E Motion.
The diffuser, I simply removed the stock channels and had some custom aluminum ones designed and fitted replacing the stock ones. I made them lower and longer towards the back, close to the Manthey specs probably.

I have not tried running the rearGT2RS CS wing without the front CS underbody, so I cannot verify whether it would cause understeer in real life. But I do run the carbon fiber CS front underbody, both with the stock GT2 wing and with the CS wing, and the car is very planted either way.

 

In stock mode I had a 619whp run and another 636whp. Tuned I had around 715whp if I recall, this was running zero (no) timing retardation on the track.

I had stronger tunes but we dialed them down, mostly the torque, for better drivability and heat management. This is where a friendly tuner is most important when working remotely, Sam and M-engineering did 9 or 10 iterations with different maps and testing until it was according to my preference and track. I am sure a straightline tune could bring better numbers.

 

Thanks, good to know. Yes totally agree on philosophy for road course tunes. The hi output dyno tunes are ok for drag, but sounds like you and Sam are getting fitting targeted results. Kudos

 

Feel free to reach out anytime. We’ve had some great success with the GT2RS cars and we are even doing a ByDesignXR on one now!

 

Just Manthey suspensions is a game changer on the car, also with Cup R or slicks.

I drive the full Manthey GT2 RS often on the Nurburgring, and suspensions were the biggest changer.

If you need infos about it, or a provider to ship it to you, let me know